Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

I used the 5th gen 4R brakes and my tires are pushed out quite a bit. I also do not intend on keeping these Method wheels )if anyone in the NYC area wants to buy them let me know) so I will def be finding a classic looking wheel with a better offset to fix this

New stock booster, 1” MC. The brakes feel fantastic. Much more travel in the pedal until it bites, and it’s much softer. But it’s still very predictable and snooth.

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Bigger bore MC will feel even better.

1-1/16” T100 bolts on. IMO 1-1/8” is perfect but have to go GM with the Sky adapter or hydroboost for that.

 

[Ry24000]

"Rd929, post: 14814622, member: 164940"]
I used the 5th gen 4R brakes and my tires are pushed out quite a bit. I also do not intend on keeping these Method wheels )if anyone in the NYC area wants to buy them let me know) so I will def be finding a classic looking wheel with a better offset to fix this

New stock booster, 1” MC. The brakes feel fantastic. Much more travel in the pedal until it bites, and it’s much softer. But it’s still very predictable and snooth.

View attachment 3235811
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Where did you get your kit? FROR doesn't answer emails or calls. Redline seems a little pricey. I think someone else sells this as a kit?

 

[cruisermatt]

@Ry24000

I also make the brackets and can modify the IFS hubs, and can set you up with rotors, calipers and all other OEM hardware. It’s just not really my main focus like the LS stuff so I don’t advertise it much.
I don’t have any IFS hubs in stock currently so you would need to source those and ship to me to machine.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

All the 03-09 4th gen 4Runner guys upgrade to the 5th gen brakes. It's very common. I have had no issues with my 2008 4Runner brakes (they are stock).

 

[Randy88FJ62]

@Ry24000

I also make the brackets and can modify the IFS hubs, and can set you up with rotors, calipers and all other OEM hardware. It’s just not really my main focus like the LS stuff so I don’t advertise it much.
I don’t have any IFS hubs in stock currently so you would need to source those and ship to me to machine.

You already ran out of the ones I shipped eh? It's too bad shipping is so high. Parts yard prices have been rising too.

 

[cruisermatt]

You already ran out of the ones I shipped eh? It's too bad shipping is so high. Parts yard prices have been rising too.

Yeah, and the prices on 80’s and 90’s trucks means none getting parted.

I can source new ones, but not cheap.

 

[GreyGooseFJ]

Bigger bore MC will feel even better.

1-1/16” T100 bolts on. IMO 1-1/8” is perfect but have to go GM with the Sky adapter or hydroboost for that.

Pardon my ignorance but would swapping to a gm 1-1/8" MC with the Sky adapter on a stock system be any benefit? Running 33's and pretty loaded down...

Or should I just pony up for the whole swap?

 

[cruisermatt]

Pardon my ignorance but would swapping to a gm 1-1/8" MC with the Sky adapter on a stock system be any benefit? Running 33's and pretty loaded down...

Or should I just pony up for the whole swap?

1-1/8 bore MC with the stock 60 series calipers? No, the only difference will be that your brake pedal will be rock hard.

Calipers and master cylinder really should be a matched from their original application. The only reason to do a GM or T100 master cylinder with the 2010-up 4runner brakes is that the late-model master cylinders aren't easily adaptable to a 60

 

[Ry24000]

With disk and caliper installed. Sorry its blurry. One of the great benefits of this mod is that the rotor mounts outboard of the hub so changing rotors is as easy and removing the wheel and caliper. Why Toyota didn't do that from the very beginning of disk brakes is beyond me.

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The inboard and outboard free space between the pad and disks are notably different (3mm). This makes me wonder if Power Stop is interchanging the Tundra/4 Runner calipers as this dimension matches the differences in overall height between the Tundra/4 Runner rotors. I don't think it will matter until the last mm of pad is burned and the inboard pistons overextend.

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wonder how the lack of backing plate factors in here???

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@Ry24000 many people on here run their 60s without front backing plates. There is a backing plate elimination kit you can purchase as well. It actually makes it alot easier to work on the front brakes, Knuckles....etc. AND removes the extra hard line on the backing plate and one brake line connection.....ie the longer soft lines go straight to the caliper.

 

[Ry24000]

eah no back plate for me too. Just cut mine down . No eliminator kit needed. Did the OP use an eliminator? If not is this why the caliper is not centered? I donno

 

[GLTHFJ60]

eah no back plate for me too. Just cut mine down . No eliminator kit needed. Did the OP use an eliminator? If not is this why the caliper is not centered? I donno

That's what I was gonna say, don't need an eliminator, just cut down your stock backing plate.

The caliper might not look centered if it's not matched perfectly, which isn't a big deal. As long as the pad is on the rotor, that's what's important.

I've been recommending (what I'm calling) Matt's caliper setup to all kinds of people lately. More stopping power is always a good thing on trucks with big tires.

 

[cruisermatt]

Except that a nice pair of backing plates is worth +$250 now…
I don’t usually run that dust seal. Consider that the later FF rear axles don’t use them.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Except that a nice pair of backing plates is worth +$250 now…
I don’t usually run that dust seal. Consider that the later FF rear axles don’t use them.

The later FF rear disc brake axles do run a different wheel bearing seal, however.

The older style dust seal acts to prevent oil from contaminating the brake drum if oil leaks from the axle tube into the hub and the leaks out the bearing hub past the wheel bearing seal.

The later seal has a dust lip on it that protrudes from the seal lip and acts as the dust seal, and should help with oil contamination of the parking brake shoes. Also, the later backing plates are designed differently... it's an updated design that simplifies things somewhat.

So.... your logic/reasoning for eliminating the rear dust seal on earlier FF axles is faulty.

~John

 

[cruisermatt]

So.... your logic/reasoning for eliminating the rear dust seal on earlier FF axles is faulty.

Read back a few posts. We are referring to front axles here.

And an 80 series FF rear does NOT have an outer hub seal... most (USA market) have an ABS tone ring where the seal would be on older FF's...
If one is doing proper maintenance they should not have to have a third seal after two other seals are failing... furthermore there are PLENTY of domestic FF axles that run oil in the hub bearings and don't have issues with oil contaminating brake components. My F350 with almost 200k on the original completely original rear axle hasn't leaked a drop

 

[Spook50]

Except that a nice pair of backing plates is worth +$250 now…
I don’t usually run that dust seal. Consider that the later FF rear axles don’t use them.

I've still been running my backing plates, though IIRC I had to notch them to fit the 2nd gen 4Runner calipers I put on years ago. Hell if I can sell them for a few bucks to offset the cost of the upgrade kit that'd be nice!

My rotors need to be changed next spring so I've been reading through this thread again as I'm toying with doing the Tundra (or 5th gen 4Runner) upgrade and combining it with a knuckle rebuild when that time comes. At this point I plan to stick with my T100 master and OEM booster since I'm running 33" tires, though I could possibly go to 35" tires in the future, and I still have a GM hydroboost sitting in my shop so I'm wondering what my best route will be here.

1) keep current MC and booster setup and go with Tundra rotors and calipers, or

2) buy appropriate MC, install and plumb my hydroboost that's sitting in my shop and go with the 5th gen 4Runner rotors and calipers

If I knew for a fact I'd be staying with 33" tires, I'd go with option #1 since that should be plenty for that tire size even with extra weight in the truck, especially given I still have the TSM rear disc kit using '82 Monte Carlo calipers and 1500HD rotors that I converted to almost 20 years ago. The real thing that gives me pause is "will I stay with 33" tires, or will I later up the size to 35....."

 

[cruisermatt]

I've still been running my backing plates, though IIRC I had to notch them to fit the 2nd gen 4Runner calipers I put on years ago. Hell if I can sell them for a few bucks to offset the cost of the upgrade kit that'd be nice!

My rotors need to be changed next spring so I've been reading through this thread again as I'm toying with doing the Tundra (or 5th gen 4Runner) upgrade and combining it with a knuckle rebuild when that time comes. At this point I plan to stick with my T100 master and OEM booster since I'm running 33" tires, though I could possibly go to 35" tires in the future, and I still have a GM hydroboost sitting in my shop so I'm wondering what my best route will be here.

1) keep current MC and booster setup and go with Tundra rotors and calipers, or

2) buy appropriate MC, install and plumb my hydroboost that's sitting in my shop and go with the 5th gen 4Runner rotors and calipers

If I knew for a fact I'd be staying with 33" tires, I'd go with option #1 since that should be plenty for that tire size even with extra weight in the truck, especially given I still have the TSM rear disc kit using '82 Monte Carlo calipers and 1500HD rotors that I converted to almost 20 years ago. The real thing that gives me pause is "will I stay with 33" tires, or will I later up the size to 35....."

stick with your vacuum booster and T100 MC. If you have to ask whether you should do hydroboost then hydroboost is overkill for you

The 5th gen stuff is really overkill for 33". 00-06 Tundra is plenty and the T100 MC is better suited to that bore size, vs being a touch on the small side for the 5th gen stuff.

And no your modified backing plates are not worth anything to someone doing a resto

 

[Spook50]

stick with your vacuum booster and T100 MC. If you have to ask whether you should do hydroboost then hydroboost is overkill for you

The 5th gen stuff is really overkill for 33". 00-06 Tundra is plenty and the T100 MC is better suited to that bore size, vs being a touch on the small side for the 5th gen stuff.

And no your modified backing plates are not worth anything to someone doing a resto

To be fair I also REALLY don't want to mess with extra plumbing so confirmation that I don't want/need to bother with hydroboost is all I need.

As far as offsetting a few bucks by selling my backing plates, well, that's a buzzkill.

 

[Rd929]

stick with your vacuum booster and T100 MC. If you have to ask whether you should do hydroboost then hydroboost is overkill for you

The 5th gen stuff is really overkill for 33". 00-06 Tundra is plenty and the T100 MC is better suited to that bore size, vs being a touch on the small side for the 5th gen stuff.

And no your modified backing plates are not worth anything to someone doing a resto

I’m running a stock booster (new) and 1” MC and the pedal is often pretty soft/lots of travel. It needs some pumping sometimes. I may go with the 1-1/16th version like you said this summer

Bigger bore MC will feel even better.

1-1/16” T100 bolts on. IMO 1-1/8” is perfect but have to go GM with the Sky adapter or hydroboost for that.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’m running a stock booster (new) and 1” MC and the pedal is often pretty soft/lots of travel. It needs some pumping sometimes. I may go with the 1-1/16th version like you said this summer

What brakes do you have ?
If you have to pump it then you have either:

1. Air in the lines
2. rear drums not adjusted properly
3. pushrod between boost and MC not adjusted correctly

Or any combination of the above