I got the 54mm socket from Amazon
Amazon.com: OTC 6612 Heavy-Duty 54mm Hex Locknut Socket: Automotive
Brake Pad Wear (Is this normal)
- Thread starter 98 SNAKE EATER
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I got the 54mm socket from Amazon
Amazon.com: OTC 6612 Heavy-Duty 54mm Hex Locknut Socket: Automotive
Maybe you just got luckey? are they the rears?
- Thread starter
- #43
Do you have a link for the TSB on this?
I've been using the stuff for about 15 years now and never had any problems with it, but I'm always open to opinions
Anyhoo, I decided to let the pads go until I heard the wear sensors and replaced both front and rear pads last week @ 187,000 miles
That's 42,000 miles on the front set worn down to the sensors and 30,000 miles on the rear with some meat leftover
Could've let the rears go a little longer, but I had them in stock and had to do a bit of towing, so replaced them too.
This time around, I didn't use any silencer and didn't notice any squeal until I made my usual water crossing through the trench near our house
I'm @ 188,1xx now and I notice a bit of squeal after heavy rainstorms and driving through deep puddles, but it's probably due to the old ragged out shims more than anything
Gunna order a compete set of shims and pad retainers for the next replacement.
Rick
I love it when people update threads. Thanks Rick!
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Look normal, seen worst.
This time around, I didn't use any silencer and didn't notice any squeal until I made my usual water crossing through the trench near our house
I'm @ 188,1xx now and I notice a bit of squeal after heavy rainstorms and driving through deep puddles, but it's probably due to the old ragged out shims more than anything
Both my trucks do this. Squeal goes away after a minute or so. I don't use silencer.
Brake Pads
Brake pads look Ok for wear although the raised areas on the worn pad indicate grooves in the disk. Maybe time for a skim on the surface or new rotors.
Brake pads look Ok for wear although the raised areas on the worn pad indicate grooves in the disk. Maybe time for a skim on the surface or new rotors.
Just curious, I've put a little over 30k miles on my rig and a complete PM was done right before I picked her up....
I figure since I do a bit of towing nowadays, I'd replace the pads before the wear indicator sounds off just to be safe
Well, today yanked the old ones out and they still had quite a bit of meat on them
Is this considered normal for 30k+ miles?
Mind you, I have a heavy ass roof rack with a bunch of gear
Rick
normal in my opinion, especially if you periodically maintain your brake system. i once changed the front twice before changing the rear and found out that rear pistons were stuck up, overworking the front.
- Thread starter
- #49
OK, here I am again @ 212,000 miles
Didn't last very long this time around (~25,000 miles)
There's a reason for that though
Didn't last very long this time around
(~25,000 miles)There's a reason for that though
That's an awfully BIG boat just to push around a small 80...You don't need that big of a boat really...A smaller one will push the 80 around just as easily 
I hope you have a supercharger to get that up to state speedlimits. Nice way to keep this thread updated. Better than just paper records of maintenance I guess.
that noise could be from the pad seperating clips..one of mine broke one time and it was making a scratch sound.
my oem pads come green painted like that aswell..
I always check both pads since I found one sliding pin frozen on the LR one time - lost the little rubber hole plug, got rusty, seized up and back pad went metal to metal and ruined the disk - probably ten or so years ago. Outside pad was hardly worn.
Bought front rotors at ORiley's, got Brembo, work great - 175,000 on front rotors. CDan gets all my orders now, but I will check ORiley's for rotor prices before I call him.
Use synthetic gear oil in the diffs and transfer case - gave me nearly 2 MPG.
Jack Nichols, 1993 Land Cruiser
Bought front rotors at ORiley's, got Brembo, work great - 175,000 on front rotors. CDan gets all my orders now, but I will check ORiley's for rotor prices before I call him.
Use synthetic gear oil in the diffs and transfer case - gave me nearly 2 MPG.
Jack Nichols, 1993 Land Cruiser
Another thought - I used the Series 100 pads on my thinner old rotors, but would have had to trim them on the thick new rotors. I had to go back to 80s for the new rotors.
That was some years ago I will try 100s again next time.
That was some years ago I will try 100s again next time.
(i havent done a search about it bc I'm not yet preparing to switch my pads out but am interested in switching to the 100 series pads when I do) did you have to change any other brake parts when you switch your 80 to 100series pads or the 100 pads fit fine on the stock 80 brake parts?
- Thread starter
- #58
And here are the rears @ 216,7xx miles (~28,600 miles)
Cut them pretty close this time around
Cut them pretty close this time around
100 pad wear
I am backward than most on MUD. (going from 100s to 80s) I am new to an 80 series but have owned 3 100s. The first I Purchased new in January of 98 and sold it with 32k so it did not need pads yet. The second a 99 I purchased with 30k put new pads on at the same time and when I sold it at 59k it still had plenty of pad wear left. The third I purchaed with 30k replaced them at 48k and sold it at 94k with plenty of pad left. Now that I am doing the 80 thing it sounds like I need to keep an eye on the pads more. Only had it for a few weeks pads look new, will go with 100 pads once these go.
I am backward than most on MUD. (going from 100s to 80s) I am new to an 80 series but have owned 3 100s. The first I Purchased new in January of 98 and sold it with 32k so it did not need pads yet. The second a 99 I purchased with 30k put new pads on at the same time and when I sold it at 59k it still had plenty of pad wear left. The third I purchaed with 30k replaced them at 48k and sold it at 94k with plenty of pad left. Now that I am doing the 80 thing it sounds like I need to keep an eye on the pads more. Only had it for a few weeks pads look new, will go with 100 pads once these go.
Going w/ lifetime warranty brake pads is risky IMO because I believe they make them very hard (extra metallic content) so that they last a long time. This in turn will often over-heat and warp your rotors. It's a risk that I would recommend you reconsider...
Having said this, I'm curious what the front and rear OEM pads cost (i.e. with a mud discount)?
Having said this, I'm curious what the front and rear OEM pads cost (i.e. with a mud discount)?