Has anyone tried these on their LC?
It's susposed to be a one man bleeding system.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
It's susposed to be a one man bleeding system.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Brake fluid replacement (1 Viewer)
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used them on a friends buggy that has some 80's brake parts, they work as advertised, we did a 3 man operation because we had 3 arround one pumping, one opening, one filling the res, but is went super fast you only have to open each one once, we did do a couple standard bleeds at the end just for S&G's
they only caost a little less (you need 5 for an 80) than the power bleeder and the PB is a better system, also the speed bleeders can only be used on one vehicle
they only caost a little less (you need 5 for an 80) than the power bleeder and the PB is a better system, also the speed bleeders can only be used on one vehicle
lurker said:
Forget about those frickin things, yes I'm pissed with them, I tried those things only to find that the M1.0 x 10 x 33 that they sell ( "for your landcruiser" ) are too short so that even when they were fully seated on the calipers threaded area for the bleeder screws, they were not long enough to fully seat inside so that everytime the brake pedal was hit, they would still squirt fluid out. Not cool. Besides, I cannot see how they save any time or any trouble vs. a power bleeder. FWIW, I've tried all the methods for bleeding ranging from the wifey on the pedal, to the vacuum bleeder, to the pressure bleeder. IMHO the pressure bleeder is the best, absolute best by far, method.
The PB was an easy sell at my casa "babe if I purchase this you will never need to help me on brake bleeding again" sold - didnt even ask how much. So I ordered the Universal one. I received it and looked at it but I have yet to use it.
When you get the pressure up to +/- 18psi and its holding do you need to reastblish the pressure (pump it up) durring the bleeding process? Also what is the safe way of bleeding the pressure off when you are finished?
The thought of the top popping off durring the process is a scary one.
Phil
When you get the pressure up to +/- 18psi and its holding do you need to reastblish the pressure (pump it up) durring the bleeding process? Also what is the safe way of bleeding the pressure off when you are finished?
The thought of the top popping off durring the process is a scary one.
Phil
LandCruiserPhil said:
Yes, my wife loves the pressure bleeder. And yes, once the pressure is set ( I found 18psi perfect, btw ) you do need to pump up from time to time, usually every two wheels. In my opinion, the way to do the flush is to get a graduated measuring container ( I used a little rubbermaid lid and container combination catchall with measurements on the side - I put a length of hose from the bleeder screw to and through the lid and then I open the bleeder screw ) and flush fresh fluid through til the measurement is at about 250 ml. Do this for the wheels and then for the LSPV. This way the fluid is fully fresh and fully flushed and you also are able to perfectly predict when you will run out of fluid. You do not want to bleed the pressure off as such, what you want to do is get all the fluid out of the pressure bleeders container and into the brake reservoir container and then stop there without pushing the fluid past the min mark on the reservoir. In fact this is the only part the wifey takes part in now; at the end of the process I just shout out from under the rig, usually under the LSPV and ask her to tell me when the last amount of fluid goes out of the pressure bleeder and then right when the fluid goes below the full mark on the reservoir. She says "stop", I stop and all is well. Then whatever pressure is left is safe to release as you are only releasing air in the pressure bleeder. If you do this with fluid in the pressure bleeder still, you will have a mess. HTH.
Great tips- especially the fill it once and measure as you go system.
Phil
Phil
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D
Docmallory
Guest
turbocruiser said:
If you have fluid in the canister and just unscrew the lid to the pump (not reservoir), the pressure escapes and there will be no mess. I did this twice with no spillage. However, the problem with this is that it usually leaves the reservoir at 100% full, so you have to draw out the excess with a syringe or whatever.
Only tip I have is to make darn sure you test the seal at the reservoir BEFORE you put fluid in the canister. Otherwise you WILL have a mess.
FWIW, I only pumped mine up to 12 lb and it worked just fine.
Docmallory said:
I trust ya that ya made it work that way, but at the same time I trust me that it is better to bleed the fluid through the pressure bleeder's container, then through the pressure bleeder's hose until the fluid is slightly lower than the max line in the brake fluid reservoir. Letting the pressure out through the lid of the pressure bleeder's container would likely work only if there were no fluid in the pressure bleeder's hose. How is it possible that there is excess fluid in the container but not that there is any excess fluid in the hose? That hose would be full with fluid so that not only would the reservoir be full to the rim, but the hose would then drop more fluid past the rim and all over the place. I really think the extra minute or so of flushing fluid til the level is right is the right way to go. No muss, no fuss. HTH.
turbocruiser said:
After my first post on this today I brought out the PB to play with. I decided to read the instructions and TURBO is spot on with the way PB recommends the final phase of bleeding. Looks like he was smart enough to read the instruction first.
Phil
LandCruiserPhil said:
Thanks Phil, but I think the truth is really that I am NOT smart enough to figure it out UNLESS I read the instructions first!!!
lurker said:Thanks TurboCruiser,
I almost pulled the Trigger and bought those things.
Does this mean that I owe you $85 now, instead of the company?
Nah, it just means you are $85 richer!
Following as I'm bleeding mine soon.
Thanks!
Thanks!
One man bleeder bottle and it's an easy job. I replace the brake fluid on all four of my vehicles every two years, as well as brake hose replacements, etc and have never had an issue with the one man bleeder.
If you haven't opened the bleeders in a long time spray them with a bit of penetrating oil and use a deep 6 point socket to break them loose initially. Once loose close it back up, put the box end of the wrench on and then attach the hose.
ive been using the old pvc hose and empty sprite bottle for years, in fact its the same bottle & hose from when i had my Mazda RX4 back in the late 80's early 90's
just refreshed the 80's fluid not to long ago along with my Harley and XR400, made a massive difference on the Harley's brakes
just refreshed the 80's fluid not to long ago along with my Harley and XR400, made a massive difference on the Harley's brakes
FWIW, I have never had any issues bleeding brakes on either my 91 or 97 and I do it fairly often. I've replaced masters, calipers, soft lines, etc.
I start with gravity bleeding until it comes out the bleeder. Then I use the Snapple bottle or whatever is in the recycle bin with a length of clear tubing.
One trick I've learned is to coat the threads of the bleeders with a bit of grease. This keeps them sealed while bleeding and prevents air from being drawn back into the system.
Remember that brake fluid should be water clear.
I start with gravity bleeding until it comes out the bleeder. Then I use the Snapple bottle or whatever is in the recycle bin with a length of clear tubing.
One trick I've learned is to coat the threads of the bleeders with a bit of grease. This keeps them sealed while bleeding and prevents air from being drawn back into the system.
Remember that brake fluid should be water clear.
I recently bought a Motive power bleeder, a couple of Motive collection bottles, and the required reservoir cap adapter and used them for the first time recently. On the one hand it helps when working alone to keep the reservoir full, but I still pressed the brake pedal a bit (don't press it hard to the floor) with the drain hose submerged in fluid in the collection bottle, and that seemed to get a few more bubbles out. Striking the calipers with a rubber hammer and tapping/flicking the flexible hoses also seemed to shake loose a few more bubbles (I had just replaced the rear calipers and all flexible lines).
One warning when using a Power Bleed (pressure) bottle, if you walk away from the power bleeder once you've opened up the bleed screw make sure the pressure bottle is full first. I didn't. On my initial use of the Motive Power Bleeder I went inside the house for a minute or two as it was boring watching the collection bottle fill slowly, that was a mistake. When I came back outside the collection bottle was bubbling (with air) as it was now full of old fluid and the tank had completely emptied itself out. Oh well, there's a learning curve with any new tool I suppose. Repeated bleeding all the way around seemed to have worked however to remove the air. I also leave the bleed screw open awhile after removing the drain hose to let it gravity bleed some before tightening down the screw.
FWIW
One warning when using a Power Bleed (pressure) bottle, if you walk away from the power bleeder once you've opened up the bleed screw make sure the pressure bottle is full first. I didn't. On my initial use of the Motive Power Bleeder I went inside the house for a minute or two as it was boring watching the collection bottle fill slowly, that was a mistake. When I came back outside the collection bottle was bubbling (with air) as it was now full of old fluid and the tank had completely emptied itself out. Oh well, there's a learning curve with any new tool I suppose. Repeated bleeding all the way around seemed to have worked however to remove the air. I also leave the bleed screw open awhile after removing the drain hose to let it gravity bleed some before tightening down the screw.
FWIW
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