Brake Caliper guru's (1 Viewer)

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Yes, left (CCW) to loosen. 40 f sound like heat wave. I don"t thing we saw 12 f for 90 minutes to day.

I'm not happy with SafeBrake. My RH fronts clocking was off. Company has not been cooperative with warranty. Did you order your set from Australia and have shipping come from China?
 
Hey guys, planning on getting into my rear brakes soon, with parts now on hand. Rotors, pads, shims, boots, pins, all of it new Toyota parts. But I've never been in there so now I do my homework first. Maybe it would be apparent once I get in there, but it might wrong as well.

The FSM shows an inner and outer shim. The shim kit 04946-60031 comes with four shims. It looks like the inner (die cut slots with a slight rubberized coating) and outer (flat with no coating) have been attached by Toyota, is that correct or am I missing some parts?

Next question: which shim goes on the inner pad, and which on the outer pad? Does it matter?

Finally, I'm guessing the wear indicator goes with the shims that are on the top?

20190329_225123.jpg
 
Hey guys, planning on getting into my rear brakes soon, with parts now on hand. Rotors, pads, shims, boots, pins, all of it new Toyota parts. But I've never been in there so now I do my homework first. Maybe it would be apparent once I get in there, but it might wrong as well.

The FSM shows an inner and outer shim. The shim kit 04946-60031 comes with four shims. It looks like the inner (die cut slots with a slight rubberized coating) and outer (flat with no coating) have been attached by Toyota, is that correct or am I missing some parts?

Next question: which shim goes on the inner pad, and which on the outer pad? Does it matter?

Finally, I'm guessing the wear indicator goes with the shims that are on the top?

View attachment 1939984

Put the shim with the rubber coating in the middle (bottom shim in pic) on the side with the piston. Check the diagram in post #20 of the thread - you can see it specifically states "inner anti-squeal shim" with the same design as in your pic. The piston basically locks its shape into the shim (metal/rubber) to get a good bite on the pad and reduce vibration.
 
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I too have put the shim with full rubber coating on side with piston (inside). Which you'll see in pictures on page 2. This insures full and even contract between pad and squeal shim from piston. This puts other (horse shoe shape rubber) on outside, which matches shape of torque plate. This then means wear indicator goes on out side, as it does not clip over squeal shim.

But in looking at brakes that have no records ever being removed. They have wear indicator inside and are set up with full shim that covers tabs of pads on outside.

The FSM is no help here and shows each shim as two part. It instructs us to grease both side of inner part, which is not possible with replacement one piece. It gives a clue by showing where wear indicator goes. Thanks factory!
 
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Hey guys, planning on getting into my rear brakes soon, with parts now on hand. Rotors, pads, shims, boots, pins, all of it new Toyota parts. But I've never been in there so now I do my homework first. Maybe it would be apparent once I get in there, but it might wrong as well.

The FSM shows an inner and outer shim. The shim kit 04946-60031 comes with four shims. It looks like the inner (die cut slots with a slight rubberized coating) and outer (flat with no coating) have been attached by Toyota, is that correct or am I missing some parts?

Next question: which shim goes on the inner pad, and which on the outer pad? Does it matter?

Finally, I'm guessing the wear indicator goes with the shims that are on the top?

View attachment 1939984
Here is the picture from the FSM, it shows the two "inner anti squeal shims" in between the flat outer shims. it also appears to show the wear "squealer" on the outer pad.

I've replaced these pads several times over the years on my '99 LX470, be sure to clean out the brake pin guide holes and use brake lube on the pins and metal pad guides (lightly coated). Important...one of the pins has a rubber collar with recesses that go around the pin and if you overgrease it, or the hole it goes into, it will "hydro-lock" and you won't be able to reinsert the pin as the grease cannot flow back out past the rubber collar. Just lightly coat that part of the pin and you'll be fine.

It's a straight forward job, not complicated at all.
rear.PNG
 
And...one other thing...I noticed you are replacing the rotors too. There are parking brake shoes behind the rotors, so if you don't want to readjust the parking brakes, you will likely have to "wiggle" the rotors off just a smidge on each side at a time. Just go slow and wiggle them from side to side while applying firm outward pressure and they'll come off.

Or, if you are familiar with how to adjust the parking brakes, you can simply back them off with the star wheel and toe rotors will slide right off...
 
Got it done, thanks to the tips above ^ ! Yeah, the pads were very thin, one was down to the metal.

Some observations. Brakes were last done at a dealer with new rotors, reman calipers. They installed shims with more full coverage shim on outside pad, and the wear indicator on the inside pad, as mentioned by 2001LC. Both sides were the same. Mentioning here to add to our knowledge base. I installed the new parts the same way they came off. Both of the inner pads were thinner than the outer pads. Used CRC Silaramic caliper grease for the job, really like it. The second picture shows inner pad and location of wear indicator. Noticed the new guide pin with rubber bushing was pretty dang tight going in, even lightly lubed, considered reusing the old one but nah, went with new one.

Shim placement seems counter intuitive, here's an idea. The larger amount of rubber material on the shim is distributed away from where the piston and caliper contact the shim, and that dampens the material from vibrating as much. Who knows for sure, outside of the original engineers?

20190331_183350.jpg

20190331_184310.jpg
 
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Wear indicator inside is what I'm seeing on low mile rigs. Which I believe to be factory install.
But FSM shows wear indicator on outside.
FSM, doesn't show difference in squeal shims' which we know new OEM are different.

But I've not had issues installing either way.
 
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Any chance to have a list of part numbers for caliper rebuild please? I saw the boots and rings with the sticker in one of the pictures, did I miss the cylinder and the rest of them part numbers? Thank you
 
There is some variation in years. Use your VIN # at partsoug, you'll find what you need. Then check prices at Mcgeorge Toyota with those PN #, which has some brake stuff cheaper.
 
Any chance to have a list of part numbers for caliper rebuild please? I saw the boots and rings with the sticker in one of the pictures, did I miss the cylinder and the rest of them part numbers? Thank you
Front or Rear?
 
I would love both, if possible.
 
I haven't done my fronts yet, but here's the rear for a 2005 LC (you'll have to look up the fronts).

2032369
 
So replacing my rear pads on my '99 cruiser and want to replace the rubber boots on the slide pins, was wondering if this is the correct part number for the kit that comes with the boots I need
04479-60250 Toyota Cylinder kit, disc brake, rear ?
Can anyone confirm
 
double post
 
So replacing my rear pads on my '99 cruiser and want to replace the rubber boots on the slide pins, was wondering if this is the correct part number for the kit that comes with the boots I need
04479-60250 Toyota Cylinder kit, disc brake, rear ?
Can anyone confirm

parts.toyota.com says 04479-60060
The part number you referenced 04479-60250 is for the 2003-2007 rears.
 
So 04479-60060 is for 1998-2002
04479-60250 is for 2003-2007
(approx)
What is actually the difference between the early and late rear calipers? Which parts are interchangeable?

I have one set of each, one from my 2000 and one from 2004, which I keep swapping between whenever they need service. That way I have at least a year to service the caliper I take out. I have never come across any incompatibilities when it comes to guide pins, piston and seals, but maybe it's just luck, or ignorance.
 
I've not had side by side. But only parts that looked difference, was the banjo (brake line fitting to caliper) washers/gaskets.
98-02 are two separate copper washer. Look to RH in bag, you'll see two copper washers. Also look to LH in pan, you'll see banjo union bolt is cooper. In 98-02 if brake fluid remains to look it turns green That is a reaction with cooper.
022.JPG

03-07 are two steel washer connected together.
Caliper RH rear Tear Down (12).JPG

But to be safe I order by VIN # As I've not had side by side to check to see that ever part is same size.
 
FYI...Powerstop makes some great brake pads, rotors and kits. But, the best part about thier kits is they arrive with all the right shims, synthetic grease and rubber boots, so no guess work.
 

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