How legit is this video? Too much grease on the slide pins could be harmful…
Brake Caliper guru's
- Thread starter 2001LC
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How legit is this video? Too much grease on the slide pins could be harmful…
- Thread starter
- #62
Yes. But!
First I use the Toyota specified grease. Which is a very light grease. If we apply to much grease, especial to lower pin, which has the rubber wrap on inside around pin (seen in his video). We get hydraulic pressure, pushing pin back out. The grease builds up, in back of the rubber wrap, which act like a seal. Pressure becomes hard to overcome. In upper pin, we get less hydro effect, since no rubber wrap covering pin sealing it in hole of mounting plate. Where in it's excessive grease, tend to push out along pin shaft.
It's best to trail fit after applying outer boots (which are not in his video), then grease pin. Push pin firmly all the way in, and pull back out. They should both travel all the way in and bottom. Then assemble!
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@2001LC I'm getting ready to do get a parts order going for rear brakes. Should I order new pins or inspect first? I see in this thread it looks like you and most just clean and re-use if in good shape but I've seen mention in other threads about just replacing them .
What about the shim kit, is this something that is typically replaced ?
What about the shim kit, is this something that is typically replaced ?
@2001LC - Do you have an opinion about Powerstop Z36 Rotors and pads? I've seen a few 200 Series folks singing their praises and those seem way heavier.
- Thread starter
- #66
Nope!
But I love DBA.
DBA rotors and pads? or DBA rotors and EBC pads?
- Thread starter
- #68
IDK anything about EBC.
One thing I do see. Is when pads and rotors mixed. Pads don't always fully span rotor surface. Or rotors not fully cut to width of pads. Those result in less contact surface (pad to rotor).
DBA is for the off-road rig, wanting increase braking for the long steep decent. The steel of rotors, if properly bedded in and cared for. Is as good as I've ever seen. With their pads, rotors last, run true (runout) and cool. Slee switch to them years ago. What they currently use IDK. The bad with DBA. They squealy, as one comes to a stop. The pads can be chamfered, to reduce squeal. But then, less pad to rotor contact surface.
If those with a 98-02, would like to kick it up braking notch. They can install 03-07 front brake calipers.
I should note: The 03-07 brake master has different P/N. I don't know why. I suspect it could have very small pressure variation front to rear. To compensation for 03-07 lager caliper piston. But we can run 00-02 brake master, with 03-07 caliper.
One thing I do see. Is when pads and rotors mixed. Pads don't always fully span rotor surface. Or rotors not fully cut to width of pads. Those result in less contact surface (pad to rotor).
DBA is for the off-road rig, wanting increase braking for the long steep decent. The steel of rotors, if properly bedded in and cared for. Is as good as I've ever seen. With their pads, rotors last, run true (runout) and cool. Slee switch to them years ago. What they currently use IDK. The bad with DBA. They squealy, as one comes to a stop. The pads can be chamfered, to reduce squeal. But then, less pad to rotor contact surface.
If those with a 98-02, would like to kick it up braking notch. They can install 03-07 front brake calipers.
I should note: The 03-07 brake master has different P/N. I don't know why. I suspect it could have very small pressure variation front to rear. To compensation for 03-07 lager caliper piston. But we can run 00-02 brake master, with 03-07 caliper.
Thanks
>> How does one know if the rotors should be changed out ? I've got 40k miles on my current rotors. Pads are down to 2mm and need to be changed. Looks like I can order a set of OEM rotors for just over $200.
I don't have any brake pulsing but Im inclined to just replace the rotors and be done with it for a while but IDK what most folks do..Replace? Or ride it out through another set of pads?
>> How does one know if the rotors should be changed out ? I've got 40k miles on my current rotors. Pads are down to 2mm and need to be changed. Looks like I can order a set of OEM rotors for just over $200.
I don't have any brake pulsing but Im inclined to just replace the rotors and be done with it for a while but IDK what most folks do..Replace? Or ride it out through another set of pads?
Measure thickness of rotor to check if its in spec otherwise replace.
Roger that, thanks. I'm hitting the easy button on this one and having a mechanic do the brake job , so Im trying to source parts before hand...Most folks say they get two pad changes out of a set of rotors with OEM on the 100 series so I think I'll be good to go
>> What about this anti squeal shim kit? I realized I only ordered for one side by accident, wondering if I should order another one . Do they typically need replacing ? I'm not familiar with that part and what it does
I ordered QTY 1 - 04946-60031
It came with 4 little pieces in it but it looks like each side needs a kit, DOH!
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As per usual I found a 2001LC comment on another forum that solved my problem. Apparently 1 kit is all that's needed , parts blowout is a bit deceiving and makes you think the entire kit is needed for one side
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Not a single person on this forum uses DBA calipers? I can't find anyone with them.