Brake booster removal/install (1 Viewer)

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Thank you for your replies! I was able to finally knock this out.

@davidp14 - your last statement is very, very true. In order to NOT need to bleed the lines, jack up the engine, etc., I needed a second set of hands. I had my buddy come over (who is also just a better mechanic than me) and we were able to figure it out. It was a super tight fit (at one point using a shim and pry bar to gently slide the booster past the manifold), but we got it in place.
 
I've been battling to get the new booster in. I have it so that the pushrod is visible under the dash, but I haven't been able to get the four studs through the firewall; they seem to be stuck around half way in, and I can't see them poking through under the dash. Any tips to get it the rest of the way in? I've been trying to muscle it but it won't budge.

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Is it the correct booster? If your sure, does it have a mounting plate that flips 180 degrees? Doesn't look OEM. I only ask because I just got a hydro booster I flipped 180 due to fitment and the mounting plate is offset causing it to misaligned the housing around the pushrod up. Looked similar to what you have there, it doesn't look centered on the firewall hole. Not much in the way to restrict access through the firewall. I flipped my mounting 180 and it mounted right up.
 
Is it the correct booster? If your sure, does it have a mounting plate that flips 180 degrees? Doesn't look OEM. I only ask because I just got a hydro booster I flipped 180 due to fitment and the mounting plate is offset causing it to misaligned the housing around the pushrod up. Looked similar to what you have there, it doesn't look centered on the firewall hole. Not much in the way to restrict access through the firewall. I flipped my mounting 180 and it mounted right up.
It’s a seiken from Cruiseryard
 
Is it the correct booster? If your sure, does it have a mounting plate that flips 180 degrees? Doesn't look OEM. I only ask because I just got a hydro booster I flipped 180 due to fitment and the mounting plate is offset causing it to misaligned the housing around the pushrod up. Looked similar to what you have there, it doesn't look centered on the firewall hole. Not much in the way to restrict access through the firewall. I flipped my mounting 180 and it mounted right up.
I guess i could try flipping it but I was pretty sure the orientation was correct with the writing up
 
I used a piece of 2x4 on top and a crow bar to wedge mine in. I also had a helper under the hood while I was laying on the floorboard trying to align the studs. Mine is alo a seiken from cruiseryard
 
Installed a Seiken years back, tried to do it without removing with the clevis but had to remove it... Don't remember it being too difficult but do remember having to tilt it behind the intake during removal and reinstall.

 
IMPORTANT!!! I attempted to remove my booster this am after reading this thread. READ THIS FIRST!!!! The part of the booster that comes through the firewall can be pushed into the booster to gain the necessary clearance, and is probably done from the inside while removing. When reinstalling first put the connecting rod through the firewall with the boot up against the firewall, then push.. it will compress the part in the boot into the booster to gain necessary clearance to push past the manifold.
This times 1000. I was struggling then I took a break and came across your post. Went back out and got it first try. Thank you! Made my day.
 
One other tip if it hasn't been discussed yet.

The four studs coming off the rear of the booster need to go through the four holes in the firewall but they also need to line up with the four holes in the brake pedal bracket. Problem is, when the old booster is removed the brake pedal bracket tends to move up, down, or sideways so the holes in the bracket no longer line up with the holes in the firewall, so the studs in the booster won't go through.

Key is to have a helper push/hold the brake pedal bracket into position over the holes in the firewall while you line up the studs and push the booster through from the other side.

FWIW
 
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One other tip if it hasn't been discussed yet.

The four studs coming off the rear of the booster need to go through the four holes in the firewall but they also need to line up with the four holes in the brake pedal bracket. Problem is, when the old booster is removed the brake pedal bracket tends to move up, down, or sideways so the holes in the bracket no longer line up with the holes in the firewall, so the studs in the booster won't go through.

Key is to have a helper push/hold the brake pedal bracket into position over the holes in the firewall while you line up the studs and push the booster through from the other side.

FWIW
Just went through this tonight. What a PITA. I ended up unbolting the brake pedal bracket and everything fell right into place.
 
Just went through this tonight. What a PITA. I ended up unbolting the brake pedal bracket and everything fell right into place.
I am glad I found this post as I was at my wits end trying to get the pedal bracket holes to line up with firewall holes during install. I unbolted the brake pedal bracket and easy peasy after that.

:cheers:
 
I just used the booster replacement as an excuse to remove and clean the intakes and throttle body and replace vacuum lines.
 
Is the 1FZ install that much different from the 3FE? I just replaced the booster on my 91 a couple weeks ago. No helper, didn’t have to remove the master cylinder, and it went through the firewall super easy. I usually mess things up the first (and sometimes second and third) time so I was genuinely surprised it was a no temper tantrum day.
 
The first time you do the booster on a 1FZE, you will know. There are some tricks to employ but, it still sucks. If you do the master cylinder at the same time, it is pure bliss. NOT.
 
Is the 1FZ install that much different from the 3FE? I just replaced the booster on my 91 a couple weeks ago. No helper, didn’t have to remove the master cylinder, and it went through the firewall super easy. I usually mess things up the first (and sometimes second and third) time so I was genuinely surprised it was a no temper tantrum day.
I'm doing one on the 1FZ now and have done it on my 3FE before. 3FE was a breeze. This one has been a PITA. Not enough clearance to the intake manifold and brake hard lines are in the way.

Finally got it all bolted on. Now just trying to get the clevis (removed to give more clearance during install) threaded back on while the brake pedal is in the way.
 
I'm doing one on the 1FZ now and have done it on my 3FE before. 3FE was a breeze. This one has been a PITA. Not enough clearance to the intake manifold and brake hard lines are in the way.

Finally got it all bolted on. Now just trying to get the clevis (removed to give more clearance during install) threaded back on while the brake pedal is in the way.

I'm fighting this right now. I've got the MC off, brake lines out of the way, and it still seems like there's just not enough clearance to get that lower inside stud out of the firewall. I even have half the intake manifold off for other jobs and I still can't get this sucker off.

What did you do to get around this? I haven't removed the clevis, but it really doesn't look like it's in the way. Am I wrong?


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Undo the driver side motor mount and jack up on the engine (with a block of wood to protect the pan) raising it a bit. You can even leave the nut on so you don't have to realign the stud with the hole in the frame mount.

The booster will come right out.

You will be shocked how easy it is once you do this.
 

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