Bragging rights over. 3FE quit and won't restart

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You can always jump 12v and ground directly to the pump harness and see if the pump runs and the truck starts.
 
You can always jump 12v and ground directly to the pump harness and see if the pump runs and the truck starts.
If I can't find any fault in the relay or any external ground that'll be my next step. The absolute last thing I want to end up doing is dropping the fuel tank. If I have to, I'm going to cut an access panel in the trunk floor to get to it in the future. Ridiculous that Toyota didn't incorporate it into the original design for the pump when they did for the sender. Supposed to be sub zero temps most of the day here tomorrow but I took the full day off of work so I'm going to be outside in my old winter gear with the diesel heater running so I can track this problem down.
 
If I can't find any fault in the relay or any external ground that'll be my next step. The absolute last thing I want to end up doing is dropping the fuel tank. If I have to, I'm going to cut an access panel in the trunk floor to get to it in the future. Ridiculous that Toyota didn't incorporate it into the original design for the pump when they did for the sender. Supposed to be sub zero temps most of the day here tomorrow but I took the full day off of work so I'm going to be outside in my old winter gear with the diesel heater running so I can track this problem down.

if i can be of any help with parts and overnight express usps shipping Dan please don;t hesitate to ask .

express usps overnight recently wen't DOWN in price to ONLY $23.25 , that's the beast darn deal in the universe on small items flat rate shipping period , like a DENSO Fuel pump for example ....



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if i can be of any help with parts and overnight express usps shipping Dan please don;t hesitate to ask .

express usps overnight recently wen't DOWN in price to ONLY $23.25 , that's the beast darn deal in the universe on small items flat rate shipping period , like a DENSO Fuel pump for example ....



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If my pump is for sure shot I'll be giving you a holler, brother. Big thanks for the heads-up.
 
If my pump is for sure shot I'll be giving you a holler, brother. Big thanks for the heads-up.


I PM you more details too ,

fyi

Teq , genuine OEM Mission Control is standing by ready pull any triggers u need Dan ..........
 
The absolute last thing I want to end up doing is dropping the fuel tank. If I have to, I'm going to cut an access panel in the trunk floor to get to it in the future.

why :lol: it really only takes like 10 minutes if you truck isn't a complete rust bucket. You'll spend all day doing your access panel and then hate yourself after it doesn't come out as nice as the one @Bullzi did
 
why :lol: it really only takes like 10 minutes if you truck isn't a complete rust bucket. You'll spend all day doing your access panel and then hate yourself after it doesn't come out as nice as the one @Bullzi did
If I have to drop the tank I'll measure for and cut an access panel while it's off so that it can be done right. I wouldn't attempt body work beyond the simplest fixes, but an access panel that only needs to be weather sealed and will be covered by carpet isn't difficult.

Dropping the tank is just a PITA when you have to do it outside in sub zero temps (though it's a whopping 5 degrees here right now, woohoo), you can't have your big heater running because of flame and open fuel lines, and you have to drain it from full and don't have a suitable container. One benefit I do have this time is that the tailpipe is easily removable with my new exhaust, so that would at least be out of the way.
 
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If I have to drop the tank I'll measure for and cut an access panel while it's off so that it can be done right. I wouldn't attempt body work beyond the simplest fixes, but an access panel that only needs to be weather sealed and will be covered by carpet isn't difficult.

Dropping the tank is just a PITA when you have to do it outside in sub zero temps (though it's a whopping 5 degrees here right now, woohoo), you can't have your big heater running because of flame and open fuel lines, and you have to drain it from full and don't have a suitable container. One benefit I do have this time is that the tailpipe is easily removable with my new exhaust, so that would at least be out of the way.


- you can get a non-62 oem toyota access panel off say a 60 or another non land cruiser and use that as a template and then a repair patch


- this way it is still all OEM all the time

- we keep it REAL !

- and Factory , FIT , FORM and FUNCTION is still retained


- this would be my path to a better Teq tomorrow .............


have the junk yars plasma cut the whole are of the acxcess toyota said panel then you simply over lay and LAP WELD it in place


factory focus point mind set approach approved ! :cool::beer:

i bet @Seth S has one maybe ?



here $18 option


 
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- you can get a non-62 oem toyota access panel off say a 60 or another non land cruiser and use that as a template and then a repair patch


- this way it is still all OEM all the time

- we keep it REAL !

- and Factory , FIT , FORM and FUNCTION is still retained


- this would be my path to a better Teq tomorrow .............


have the junk yars plasma cut the whole are of the acxcess toyota said panel then you simply over lay and LAP WELD it in place


factory focus point mind set approach approved ! :cool::beer:

i bet @Seth S has one maybe ?



here $18 option


That particular panel is for accessing the fuel level sender, which mine already has. If and when I next drop my tank, I'll outline and cut an access hole and then put a lip around the piece I cut out so that it'll easily screw back into place.

It keeps getting strange. I have voltage clear back to the yellow connector, but the pump doesn't run even with the jumper installed in the diagnostic connector. I apply power directly to the pump, and it runs. At least now I know it's not the pump itself. I suspect something to do with the connector but visually I can't see anything. No corrosion, damage (beyond the female terminals being pretty well compressed from 34 years connected), or excessive dirt even. I thoroughly cleaned and inspected the large blue and small white connectors inside the cargo panel. No damage to either so fresh dielectric grease and they're back together. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and do a "verboten per @ToyotaMatt " move here. I'll report back if it works :lol:
 
That particular panel is for accessing the fuel level sender, which mine already has. If and when I next drop my tank, I'll outline and cut an access hole and then put a lip around the piece I cut out so that it'll easily screw back into place.

It keeps getting strange. I have voltage clear back to the yellow connector, but the pump doesn't run even with the jumper installed in the diagnostic connector. I apply power directly to the pump, and it runs. At least now I know it's not the pump itself. I suspect something to do with the connector but visually I can't see anything. No corrosion, damage (beyond the female terminals being pretty well compressed from 34 years connected), or excessive dirt even. I thoroughly cleaned and inspected the large blue and small white connectors inside the cargo panel. No damage to either so fresh dielectric grease and they're back together. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and do a "verboten per @ToyotaMatt " move here. I'll report back if it works :lol:


i hope you have this " Verbatim " FSM in one hand , :beer:
 
You have voltage, good, but thats half of what you need. What’s the resistance to ground on the ground wire going to the pump (at the yellow connector)?
 
i hope you have this " Verbatim " FSM in one hand , :beer:
No not "verbatim"; verboten!

Like what I just did! :lol:


Connectotr 01.jpg



Connector 02.jpg


In other news I finally found the problem. @cruisermatt turns out here's a break between the white connector in the quarter panel and the connector at the fuel pump. Discovered it while in the process of changing the fuel pump connector, so I'll have to find the break and splice it back together. Grounds were all good, though I cleaned up the main ground point and applied some conductive grease to it for good measure.

Unfortunately I still have to lower the tank to release the sub harness from the clips on the body sheet metal. Otherwise it'll be an easy fix.
 
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See, not the end of the world.
 
No not "verbatim"; verboten!

Like what I just did! :lol:


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View attachment 2878493

In other news I finally found the problem. There's a break between the white connector in the quarter panel and the connector that I just replaced. Unfortunately I still have to lower the tank to release the sub harness from the clips on the body sheet metal. Otherwise it'll be an easy fix.


define break Dan ?


we must learn more here ?


all i see is a NON OEM , DUSCH Brand type connector ? :confused:


you know i posses ALL the Killer KOOL OEM Water Proof JAPAN Sumitomo Housings for you Brother ........

in stock and ready for express overnight to your door at a moments notice ....

The 2 pin OEM housing on your float sender is krusty too

Let’s REFRESH the toyota traditional way here

I suggest this to start :


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See, not the end of the world.
Nah, not horrible. A PITA if I have to drop the tank completely, but I'm hoping I can use my tranny jack and lower it just enough to fit my arm up in there and release the tabs holding the sub harness.

@ToyotaMatt that there's a GM/Delphi Weather Pack connector. One of the only things that GM did better than Toyota IMO. I've never had a Weather Pack connector fail on me and I have them all over my 62. Discovered them about 15 years ago when I had my '74 Plymouth. As far as the break in the harness I'm not sure the exact details of it but when I get the sub harness out I'll be able to find it and see for sure. I suspect something pinched the hot lead to the fuel pump at some point and it eventually corroded to the point of failure at one of the worst possible times.
 
Nah, not horrible. A PITA if I have to drop the tank completely, but I'm hoping I can use my tranny jack and lower it just enough to fit my arm up in there and release the tabs holding the sub harness.

@ToyotaMatt that there's a GM/Delphi Weather Pack connector. One of the only things that GM did better than Toyota IMO. I've never had a Weather Pack connector fail on me and I have them all over my 62. Discovered them about 15 years ago when I had my '74 Plymouth. As far as the break in the harness I'm not sure the exact details of it but when I get the sub harness out I'll be able to find it and see for sure. I suspect something pinched the hot lead to the fuel pump at some point and it eventually corroded to the point of failure at one of the worst possible times.


well the hard part is over

a concrete diagnoses in the
ARCTIC Region / Cold Climate Spec. conditions you dwell in out side at night right now must be pain full ...... 🥶 ❄️ 🏔️
 
well the hard part is over

a concrete diagnoses in the
ARCTIC Region / Cold Climate Spec. conditions you dwell in out side at night right now must be pain full ...... 🥶 ❄️ 🏔️
Once it drops down to single digits and below it begins to get a bit uncomfortable.
 
Well I couldn't just leave it alone and come back to it after work tomorrow. So I laid under my truck leg pressing a ~160lb full fuel tank while I loosened the straps and fished out the sub harness. I managed to get it out and found the break just about an inch from the grommet on the exterior (underside) of the truck. Was still inside the wire loom and wrapped with the original tape, but somehow a spot of the insulation had cracked or something and some moisture had gotten in God only knows how long ago and did its thing. It finally corroded away completely on Christmas Eve of all times, and came apart completely as I was taking pictures of it. It's a pretty short section of harness and a cakewalk to duplicate, so I'll attack that tomorrow after work. What's funny is this is a section of harness that I have not once EVER messed with until now. Sure wonder how long ago (and just how) this damage began.

Wire Break 01.jpg


Wire Break 02.jpg
 
Well I couldn't just leave it alone and come back to it after work tomorrow. So I laid under my truck leg pressing a ~160lb full fuel tank while I loosened the straps and fished out the sub harness. I managed to get it out and found the break just about an inch from the grommet on the exterior (underside) of the truck. Was still inside the wire loom and wrapped with the original tape, but somehow a spot of the insulation had cracked or something and some moisture had gotten in God only knows how long ago and did its thing. It finally corroded away completely on Christmas Eve of all times, and came apart completely as I was taking pictures of it. It's a pretty short section of harness and a cakewalk to duplicate, so I'll attack that tomorrow after work. What's funny is this is a section of harness that I have not once EVER messed with until now. Sure wonder how long ago (and just how) this damage began.

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i will say MICE chewed those leeds on you Dan for sure ............



that Darn TOYOTA JIS MOUSE strikes again ! :confused:





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