Bp51 setting’s recommendations (3 Viewers)

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JcrewLC

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Looking for recommendations on BP51 setting:

Running 2721 springs in the back
Stock weight
285/70/18 Nitto Recon

Wifey is saying it’s a little rough on the ride. Never adjusted the settings off the box when the installer did it. Looking for a comfy ride for now since it’s her mall crawler.
 
Unfortunately, yes. You would need to remove and then set the preload from 0 to 5 max. I think I set mine to 3 as I have a drawer system, but no metal bumper, spare tire, accessories, etc.

But this would definitely explain the harsh ride.
 
Assuming you're talking about the spring preload on the fronts, I didn't adjust mine, I left them at the stock 10mm, and I don't think the ride is harsh, seems nice and firm to me. I don't have a front steel bumper (yet), the only additional weight I have up front is a dual battery system, the starting battery is also the large Group 31. I do have full drawers and a steel bumper in the back.
 
My recommendation is to contact ARB to receive the most current fitting instructions. It's been some time since I installed my system, but here's what I remember:
  • The preload from the factory comes set to 20, which assumes that you have accessories installed (metal bumpers/bar, winch, 2nd battery, etc.).
  • A few different fitting instructions are floating around, produced on different dates. You need to make sure that the fitting instructions you receive are for petrol engines vs. diesel. From the doc I used, the petrol instructions recommended a preload setting of 0, while the diesel instructions recommended 10 when running with no accessories.
I'm attaching the fitting instructions I used, but again, contact ARB to get the most current version.
 

Attachments

JcrewLC said:
Looking for recommendations on BP51 setting:

Running 2721 springs in the back
Stock weight
285/70/18 Nitto Recon

Wifey is saying it’s a little rough on the ride. Never adjusted the settings off the box when the installer did it. Looking for a comfy ride for now since it’s her mall crawler.
Click to expand...
Your E-rated tires will make the biggest difference. I have bp-51 and ran e-rated 285/70/18 RG and was not fun going over speed bumps, potholes, etc. I then switched to the new Nitto Recon 295/70/18 SL rated and the change was amazing. They soaked up everything like a Cadillac. I ended up returning them because they made an odd droning sound I can only hear apparently around 64-69mph. My family couldn’t hear it but it bothered my ears and that is the speed I used most of the time on my local highway. I now have Bridgestone Revo3 and they are silent, super smooth and grippy in heavy rain, but not great over speed bumps and potholes as my stiffness has come back but not as bad as my original Ridge grapplers which I find noisy once you hit 25k miles. I might be selling my 200 soon as my new job is 3mi. from house and need something for constant short trips which isn’t great to do with a V8. Since, you’re using your vehicle as a mall cruiser, take a hard look at the Nitto Recon SL if you want the aggressive look without and softness you’re searching for. Just know, you’ll need 1.25” spacers and maybe a 1/4” turning bump stop welded on. My turning radius hasn’t changed at all.

IMG_3768.webp
 
I was able to adjust the front but I’m having some difficulties adjusting the setting on the rear. It’s turning the shock and I didn’t want to break something so I stopped
 
JcrewLC said:
I was able to adjust the front but I’m having some difficulties adjusting the setting on the rear. It’s turning the shock and I didn’t want to break something so I stopped
Click to expand...
You have to use some sort of wrench to hold the shock body to keep it from rotating. I use a strap wrench.
 
I've watched the OME videos about how the BP51 adjustments work, but I'm not clear on how the adjustments actually impact real life driving. Do the compression/rebound settings mostly affect low speed or high speed driving characteristics?

Slee did my BP51 install and set C/R to 3/7 front and 4/7 rear. The ride is great on the highway, especially with a cooler in the trunk, maybe even a bit too floaty, but it soaks up much of the highway imperfections nicely. Low speed around town though the pothole hits and railroad track crossings in the city and around town are rough. It feels like the slower I go, the harsher the ride.

I could just set everything to 0/0 and then try to adjust from there, but it's a 20 minute drive to get on the highway, so trail-and-error testing is going to take an entire day (unless I get really lucky). Given where I'm at now and my current ride characteristics, anyone care to make recommendations on what I should change?
 
Found this today. Best all-in-one view I've seen yet.
(also, 290PSI nitrogen top-off for best and most consistent performance)

1713218154880.png
 
Is there any reason for preload to be different on the left or right side? I just did new LCAs today and the shop doing the alignment noticed my right side coil was 2 threads less above the perch than the driver's side (8 passenger, 10 driver). I'm wondering if @sleeoffroad did this intentionally when setting it up to balance my actual ride height, or if the seat has somehow slipped 2 turns on a trail in Moab last week?
 
linuxgod said:
Is there any reason for preload to be different on the left or right side? I just did new LCAs today and the shop doing the alignment noticed my right side coil was 2 threads less above the perch than the driver's side (8 passenger, 10 driver). I'm wondering if @sleeoffroad did this intentionally when setting it up to balance my actual ride height, or if the seat has somehow slipped 2 turns on a trail in Moab last week?
Click to expand...
I have my front right at a higher preload to level the vehicle. That spring settled more over the first year.
Since I adjusted it, it hasnt moved again.
It's about 16mm vs 12mm
 
100kiwi said:
I have my front right at a higher preload to level the vehicle. That spring settled more over the first year.
Since I adjusted it, it hasnt moved again.
It's about 16mm vs 12mm
Click to expand...
Thanks. I assume it was intentional, but I've been chasing a metallic popping sound that seems to happen when turning at low speed, particularly when entering a driveway (or my garage). It had gone away after my steering rack was replaced, but the sound recently returned... and seems to be a bit worse after running trails in Moab. I don't think it's the BP51s, unless the spring is moving on the coilover perch, which is why I'm curious. I get the noise without skid plates and given I have a new steering rack (with tie rods), new sway bar end links, new LCAs, and new UCA ball joints I doubt it's actually suspension-related. Some of the Tundra forums have pointed to loose body mounts, though I'm really not sure how to tell those. I'll have to start a separate thread on them...
 
isthatalexus said:
Found this today. Best all-in-one view I've seen yet.
(also, 290PSI nitrogen top-off for best and most consistent performance)

View attachment 3608029
Click to expand...
This is very handy but one, possibly dumb, question I have is how are we to determine the load amount? I’m working on my rears and I feel like I’m on the heavier side and plan on weighing my rear axle with a trailer tongue scale. I assume I want to subtract empty vehicle weight to come up with the rest load but I have no clue what that is.
 
Artie said:
This is very handy but one, possibly dumb, question I have is how are we to determine the load amount? I’m working on my rears and I feel like I’m on the heavier side and plan on weighing my rear axle with a trailer tongue scale. I assume I want to subtract empty vehicle weight to come up with the rest load but I have no clue what that is.
Click to expand...
I *think* the calculation goes something like this:

[Observed axle weight (scale)] minus [GAWR weight (sticker)] equals [how much you are over].

Use this amount to select the springs that provide the appropriate amount of capacity for your rig (e.g., 400/800/etc.). This is not always perfect: if you are 250lb over, a 400lb spring set may be too springy. That same set might feel just right when you add the TW of your trailer. I assume that a similar calculation is useful for the trailer, as well, depending on how much stuff people load up. (I don't think you always have to use a Vespa to calculate GTW)

I don't tow much, so have never extended the calculation to add towing needs for myself. But, pic related. (sauce: What Is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating? | GVWR | Weigh Safe - https://www.weigh-safe.com/towing-safety/what-is-your-gross-vehicle-weight-rating-or-gvwr/)

1716397485090.jpeg
 
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