NorCal "Sleeper" Build (1 Viewer)

[sherman]

This thread will document my "sleeper" build for a 2017 Land Cruiser. This thread will be tailored for newbies, but some old-timers might find some of the information useful (especially to confirm common issues). I'll discuss the following topics, the rationale behind each decision (for better or worse), and lessons learned:

• Toyo Open Country AT3 275/70/18 on stock wheels
• BP-51 w/ 2721 rear springs + BudBuilt rear shock guards
• Dissent sliders
• ARB twin compressor w/ SLEE mounting tray
• Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform + James Baroud Evasion (standard)
• Drifta Wagon #2 drawer system
• KAON rear shelf
• National Luna Legacy 50L
• Ecoflow River Pro battery
• Black Diamond ReMoji lighting
• Zarges K440 Cargo Cases
• Beat-Sonic Apple CarPlay Unit
• Victory 4x4 Rear Seat Monitor Delete Panels

Goals:

• to create a more capable vehicle that can get the family to more epic camping spots
• to keep the vehicle looking like a family car while I still have kids at home

Non-Goals:

• high difficulty or technical off-road (to the point where lockers would be needed)
• overbuilding the vehicle before I'm ready or have enough off-road experience

As I said, it's a newbie thread, but several lessons were learned. Details to follow over the next few weeks...

 

[sherman]

First up, tires. I went with the Toyo Open Country AT3 275/70/18 (E rated) on stock wheels, running at 41 PSI for daily driving. I also considered the KO2s, but I was concerned about some comments about road noise after the tread had worn down a bit.

I was also interested in moving down to 17s, but I was already over budget on the build and figured I could run with the Toyos for a few years, then swap out the wheels later if desired. One disadvantage with sticking with the 18s was that Toyo didn't offer a C rated tire in a large size. I was concerned that going to an E rated tire would be overkill for my use case, and introduce unnecessary stiffness in the ride.

There are two different models:

• 355510 - Black Side Wall - these are 33.2" and manufactured in the USA. These are what I went with, go !
• 355520 - Outlined White Letters - these are 33.4” and manufactured in Japan.

Observations using stock suspension:

• The ride is definitely stiffer, but not too much. I wouldn’t want it any stiffer, however.
• The truck corners better, most likely due to the stronger sidewall.
• The tires DO rub when in reverse at full lock. The fit is very tight, and I’m glad I didn’t get the slightly larger version.
• No problems fitting in the spare location.
• There is some slight hum on the road, but you really have to listen for it. I was expecting much worse and was pleasantly surprised. With the stereo on, no problems at all.
• The truck feels a bit more sluggish, but that’s understandable given the added rotational weight.
• Some have commented that 275 tires on a Land Cruiser look too skinny, but I don’t feel that way at all. That said, I wouldn’t want to go below 275.
• I’ve lost around 1-2 MPG, but this is using the Land Cruiser's electronics and I haven’t calculated for the larger diameter or done a manual milage test.
• I’m traveling around 2 MPH faster than what the speedometer says at around 65 MPH, clocked using the Waze app and using roadside radar speed signs.
• Tires look great.

Based on the tread wear to date (around 10K miles), I don't think I'm getting 50K out of these tires. 30K to 40K is more likely.

Here are some pics before lifting the truck, with the stock suspension at 35 PSI (what Discount Tire set it to initially):

 

[sherman]

For the suspension, I went with an ARB OME BP-51 w/ 2721 rear springs. In short, the installation was a nightmare and it ended up costing me a lot more than I thought it would.

I wouldn't recommend a BP-51 upgrade unless you are willing to drive your LC to SLEE and have it done right the first time.

I eventually found a shop that was able to get this dialed in but not after spending thousands in repairs and redos. If I could do it all over again, I would take it to SLEE. And no, I will not be mentioning the name of the first installer.

Here are the lessons learned:

• First, make sure your KDSS valves aren't rusted shut before upgrading the suspension, as otherwise, the guys at the shop might strip your valves, which is a $2K repair. Research the many threads on this forum for how to do this.
• Demand that the installers read the manual before installation, and insist that they are responsible for its contents.
• Be sure to calculate the preload needed for your vehicle. The shocks come from the factory preloaded at 20. For a stock petrol vehicle with no accessories, the preload should be 0 (I believe Ed Martin recommends 5). Fully loaded with metal bumpers, winch, 2nd battery, etc., and the preload might be 20. Once calculated, write this into the instruction booklet, highlight it in yellow, and tell the installer this is what you need. It's also important to note that the ARB instructions sometimes assume diesel vs. petrol, and as such, might give you different preloads as a result. Be sure to ask ARB for the latest instruction manual, as this will break out the difference between the two.
• Inform the installer that this system is designed for a 1.5"-2" lift, no more.
• I went with ARB OME upper control arms, thinking that it would all work as an integrated system. However, I do have some rub on the KDSS bars, and I'm wondering if I should have gone with SPC upper control arms instead to get more caster adjustability.
• I went with 2721 rear springs because they are progressive springs and I knew my loads would be variable. I believe this is the correct spring for my use case, and while I do have a drawer system, fridge, RTT, etc., I don't have 3rd-row seats, metal rear bumpers, extra tank, rear tire carrier, etc. I have had the car fully loaded off-road and they've worked great. That said, springs are only $200, so if I need to bump up to 2123s or higher, I can easily do so. Here are the spring rates for the various OME springs:
  Stock: 170
  2721: 270/350 progressive
  2722: 275
  2723: 340
  2724: 400
  2725: 440
• If you use ARB OME BP-51s in the rear, note that ARB has been shipping the wrong washers! Instead of receiving 3 x VF60020004 washers and 1 x VF60020002 washer, we received 4 x VF60020002 washers for each shock. The problem with two lipped washers is that they will meet in the middle and "clack" together. Additionally, they don't apply enough pressure on the bushings. My mechanic added a washer from the OEM shocks to take out the slack and this fixed the issue. If you are ordering the BP-51s yourself, make sure you inventory every part before your install date. If you need more information, DM me or search for posts in this forum.
• If you use ARB OME BP-51s in the rear, note that the springs are marked A and B, one spring is for driver's side and one passenger. Also note that ARB's manual is written for Australia, with the driver's side reversed. I forgot which spring goes where, but be sure to research which side each spring goes on (in this forum and the manual) prior to installation.
• You'll need a strap wrench if you are adjusting the compression or rebound in the rear because without it the shocks will spin when you make the adjustment.

I also added BudBuilt Rear shock guards to help protect the rear BP-51 shocks. The plastic guards that came with the system are very flimsy and they kept getting dislodged. I removed them with a Dremel tool in about 30 seconds. I went with BudBuilt as they were very helpful on the phone, their products are super tough, and they support our veterans.

Open issues:

• I'm still experimenting with the compression and rebound settings.
• After installing the BP-51s, I now have slight rubbing on the KDSS bars, both forward and reverse. I'm looking at options for this such as getting it realigned, and swapping out the UCAs to assist with alignment, and spacers. One mechanic recommended a slight 5mm spacer vs. a full 1.25" Spidertrax. I'm concerned that Spidertrax would necessitate a lot of fender cutting. Still evaluating options and would love feedback on this.

Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[grinchy]

Sounds like that was no fun.
Nice truck!

 

[linuxgod]

I just barely touched the KDSS arms with my setup. I have 285/75R17 tires which are slightly taller than yours. But I also have lower offset wheels (+25).

For the KDSS rub, the right way to resolve this IMO is to spend the $100 on the KDSS relocation bracket, and then mount the sway bar end links outside the cradle on the LCA. That moves the KDSS arm and sway bar forward 1", which will remove the rub. The KDSS relo kit will tweak the sway bar end links at a steeper angle, but if you bolt them to the outside of the cradle it significantly reduces the angle. I have a posting with the details but you basically need two longer bolts, two fender washers, and some 1.5" aluminum spacers.

You could go to different wheels to eliminate the KDSS contact but that does change the suspension/handling characteristics slightly. Also you have to spend $ on wheels, though you can probably get some of that back reselling yours.

Failing the above fix you can try to have your alignment adjusted to reduce the caster, which will reduce or eliminate your KDSS arm rubbing but may impact vehicle handling.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Great write-up. A good alignment should be able to keep you off the KDSS. You may need to heat and massage some fender liner/mud flaps, but that's pretty easy and normal.

 

[Angelo1]

For the suspension, I went with an ARB OME BP-51 w/ 2721 rear springs. In short, the installation was a nightmare and it ended up costing me a lot more than I thought it would.

I wouldn't recommend a BP-51 upgrade unless you are willing to drive your LC to SLEE and have it done right the first time.

I eventually found a shop that was able to get this dialed in, but not after spending thousands in repairs and redos. If I could do it all over again, I would take it to SLEE. And no, I will not be mentioning the name of the first installer.

Here are the lessons learned:

• First, make sure your KDSS valves aren't rusted shut before upgrading the suspension, as otherwise the guys at the shop might strip your valves, which is a $2K repair. Research the many threads on this forum for how to do this.
• Demand that the installers read the manual before installation, and insist that they are responsible for its contents.
• Be sure to calculate the preload needed for your vehicle. The shocks come from the factory preloaded at 20. For a stock petrol vehicle with no accessories, the preload should be 0 (I believe Ed Martin recommends 5). Fully loaded with metal bumpers, winch, 2nd battery, etc., and the preload might be 20. Once calculated, write this into the instruction booklet, highlight it in yellow, and tell the installer this is what you need. It's also important to note that the ARB instructions sometimes assume diesel vs. petrol, and as such, might give you different preloads as a result. Be sure to ask ARB for the latest instruction manual, as this will break out the difference between the two.
• Inform the installer that this system is designed for a 1.5"-2" lift, no more.
• I went with ARB OME upper control arms, thinking that it would all work as an integrated system. However, I do have some rub on the KDSS bars, and I'm wondering if I should have gone with SPC upper control arms instead to get more caster adjustability.
• I went with 2721 rear springs because they are a progressive spring and I knew my loads would be variable. I believe this is the correct spring for my use case, and while I do have a drawer system, fridge, RTT, etc., I don't have 3rd row seats, metal rear bumpers, extra tank, rear tire carrier, etc. I have had the car fully loaded off road and they've worked great. That said, springs are only $200, so if I need to bump up to 2123s or higher, I can easily do so. Here are the spring rates for the various OME springs:
  Stock: 170
  2721: 270/350 progressive
  2722: 275
  2723: 340
  2724: 400
  2725: 440
• If you use ARB OME BP-51s in the rear, note that ARB has been shipping the wrong washers! Perhaps they've corrected it by now, but I received two lipped washers when I should have only received one lipped and one flat one. The problem with two lipped washers is that they will meet in the middle and "clack" together. Additionally, they don't apply enough pressure on the bushings. My mechanic added a washer from the OEM shocks to take out the slack and this fixed the issue. If you are ordering the BP-51s yourself, make sure you inventory every part before your install date. If you need more information, DM me or search for posts in this forum.
• If you use ARB OME BP-51s in the rear, note that the springs are marked A and B, one spring is for driver side and one passenger. Also note that ARB's manual is written for Australia, with the driver's side reversed. I forgot which spring goes where, but be sure to research which side each spring goes on (in this forum and the manual) prior to installation.
• You'll need a strap wrench if you are adjusting the compression or rebound in the rear, because without it the shocks will spin when you make the adjustment.

Open issues:

• I'm still experimenting with the compression and rebound settings.
• After installing the BP-51s, I now have slight rubbing on the KDSS bars, both in forward and reverse. I'm looking at options for this such as getting it realigned, swapping out the UCAs to assist with alignment, and spacers. One mechanic recommended a slight 5mm spacer vs. a full 1.25" Spidertrax. I'm concerned that Spidertrax would necessitate a lot of fender cutting. Still evaluating options and would love feedback on this.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Slee is amazing. Christo worked on two of my 200’s.

Why would you not mention the installer? I don’t think you’d want another Mud member to potentially use installer. No different then calling out a bad restaurant experience on Yelp. The whole purpose of this forum allows members a great resource of information and community. Thank you for sharing your build, looks fantastic and love the RTT!

 

[sherman]

I do not anticipate needing full armor for the next five years or so, as I won't be doing anything technical with the wife and kids. But in the odd chance that I go rock high, I did want a bit more protection, so I went with Dissent sliders.

I also looked at BudBuilt, SLEE, and a few others, but in the end, I went with Dissent for the following reasons:

• They're in NorCal, so it was easy to pick up.
• They have a solid reputation and product line.
• They had the most "OEM" look, and I didn't care for details such as diamond plates, bars, steps with holes in them, etc. Also, I'm in the snow a lot and didn't want slippery rounded bars on the steps as I'm always grabbing skis/boards from the top of the car. The Dissents are relatively square.
• Most importantly, Ben was super helpful on the phone and even offered advice on other areas of my build. SOLD!

It did take 4 or 5 months for the order to be ready, so order early if you want them by summer.

Two great things happened when I picked up the sliders... First, several guys jumped into action and brought me extra cardboard to protect the inside of my LC, and they were also gracious enough to give me a quick tour of the shop and some of the vehicles they were working on. While I'm not in a big hurry to add metal bumpers, I sure wanted them by the time I left - they make great stuff.

I had the shop install these, so I don't have many insights there, but happy to answer any questions, send more photos, etc.

One final note... I was surprised by how flimsy the OEM sliders were once I took them off. They weighed almost nothing.

 

[sherman]

To air down/up I added an ARB Twin Compressor under the hood using the SLEE tray. I also installed the Manifold Kit, as the guys from SLEE stated that the coiled air hose could overheat without it. I also added a dust cover. Installation of this was pretty straightforward, but there were a few lessons learned from experience and posts in this forum:

• No matter what I tried, I couldn't keep the compressor from colliding with the fuse box latches, so I had to use a Dremel tool to cut some of the plastic off.
• There was no way to make the air hose bend like the images that SLEE provided until I saw this video that explains how to modify the hose.
• I couldn't find a post that described a good way to mount the switch under the hood, so I had the shop run the wires through the firewall and mount the switch on the interior. A post that occurred after my installation covers some options. If you are not running lockers, I would place the switch under the hood to avoid wiring hassles.
• ARB's switch doesn't fit in the interior switch panel without cutting. If you mount the switch internally, here's an OEM-style switch.

The compressor works great, and I use it to air up/down, keep the PSI constant in the tires, and air up and set tubeless mountain biking tires at the trailhead.

 

[sherman]

For the RTT/rack, I ended up with a James Baroud Evasion (standard) with a Rhino-Rack Pioneer platform. A big shout out to Joost and crew at Rhino Adventure Gear for getting this set up for me.

It's working well, but I *might* select some different options if I had to do it all over again.

What's great about this setup?

The most important consideration was convenience and sleeping comfort for my wife (who generously puts up with my LC obsession), and the James Baroud doesn't disappoint. It only takes about one minute to deploy, and it is relatively effortless. The interior is roomy, and the mattress is very comfortable (I also have the condensation mat in place). The screened windows are very nice, and the tent also includes a built-in light and a solar-powered fan. I've camped during some powerful winds, and the tent held up great. The James Baroud is a luxurious tent.

Tear-down is a bit trickier, especially alone and in the morning when there's a lot of dew on the car and tent. The hardest part is making sure the tent sides are tucked in as you close the clamshell top. This involves folding one side in, lowering the top a little, shimmying to the other side and folding that in, lowering the top a little more, and repeating this process until everything is tucked in enough to get the top closed. Alone this takes about 5 minutes, but it would take only 2-3 minutes with two people.

The tent's height is low, and the hardtop keeps wind noise to a minimum on the road. The standard size works great for two people, and while James Baroud makes an XL version, I couldn't imagine having anything larger than the standard size on the top of an LC.

The Rhino-Rack was chosen because it is an entirely flat rack, allowing the tent to sit flush on its platform as low as possible. The rack is sturdy and well built, and there are no strange lips, bolts, or protrusions that could damage or interfere with the tent.

So what's wrong with this setup?

First, the tent takes up the bulk of the rack, which doesn't leave room for cargo boxes, Maxtrax, or other accessories. Additionally, since the width of the tent takes up the entire rack, you couldn't mount a 270 awning without moving the tent over to one side, which I think would look a bit odd. If there are James Baroud owners that have had success in mounting accessories, I would love to learn more about your setups.

Second, the tent is heavy and large, making taking it on/off a gigantic pain. We ski a lot, so removing the tent in the winter is essential, and I'm not looking forward to putting it back on. Probably a four-person job. IMHO, I wouldn't get a James Baroud unless you plan to keep it mounted year-round.

Third, the design of the Rhino-Rack is such that it covers the satellite fin, causing the SiriusXM signal to cut out depending on the orientation of the car, and I believe this is due to the front-to-back direction of the slats, where the middle slat runs directly over the fin. Other racks do not appear to cover the fin as much.

Wrapping Up

I will run with this setup for a few years to see how things go. If I were to do this all over again, I might do the following:

• Get a foldout RTT that is lighter and has a smaller footprint to store more gear up top and more easily take the tent off when I don't need it.
• Go with the Front Runner rack, as they have a quick-release mechanism for RTTs, and it allows you to store tables beneath the rack.

That's it for the RTT/rack combo. I hope this was helpful, and feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

So take this with a grain of salt as I am still waiting to have my explorer installed, but you can solve a lot of those problems with the James Baroud if you run a larger platform. I bought the backbone supports for the LX570 but a Defender 110 platform which is much larger. I am having the Explorer RTT, the Falcon 270, and the shower awning installed on mine with a few other accessories on the 25th of this month so I can let you know how that goes if your interested. I am also going go to run the tent backwards on my roof rack, which I know sounds strange, but with the latches where they are and where the doors are, it just made more sense that way for me.

A couple thoughts, you will run into the same issues with the front runner as the rhino rack unless you run a larger platform. IMHO, the front runner is less than ideal anyway because the floor of the James Baroud is completely flat and the edges are raised on the side of the front runner requiring you to raise the tent off the surface of the platform anyway if you wanted to run the front runner.

Here are some pictures to show you where I am headed with mine. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[sherman]

One of the build items I was most excited about was the drawer system. The requirements were:

• A low slide fridge, as my wife is only 5'4" and she needs to peer into and access the fridge
• The flexibility to quickly convert from a camping configuration to a daily driving configuration
• Efficient use of space
• Affordable
• Good design and aesthetics

I looked at:

• ARB Outback
• Landshark
• Goose Gear
• Air Down Gear Up
• Trekboxx
• Drifta

My top choice was the Trekboxx, and having seen it in person, I can attest that it is a kick-ass system. But, unfortunately, it was more than I could afford.

So I went with the Drifta Drawer System, as it appeared to check the most boxes for me. The systems are built in Australia, custom-made for your vehicle and fridge size. Mine took about ten months to arrive, and while the prices on the website are in Australian dollars, you'll end up paying about that same amount in USD. I ordered the Drifta Wagon #2 design with a few customizations. They also have a 3-in-1 design if an additional drawer is desired.

The system arrived very well packaged with no damage at all.

Here is the camping configuration:

The fridge slide locks closed and fully extended, and I installed custom flush-mount tie-downs. The fridge surround is a custom fit to your fridge, and it has several round ports in the back for ventilation and power cables. A National Luna Legacy 50's lid will clear the hatch and open fully, which allows you to use two hands to get items out of the fridge.

The drawer is roomy, and the interior dimensions are 39.25 x 20.5 x 7.25h. Instead of using traditional slide hardware that takes up 3/4" on each side, the Drifta drawer slides on Teflon strips, providing more overall storage room. I decided to wait on installing flush tie-downs on top of the drawer until I have some time to put the cases in and measure everything.

Beneath the drawer is a slide-out table that can be used as a small workspace (as shown), or it can be removed entirely and set up as a camp table using the folding legs beneath it. I requested a customization to have the table located below the drawer instead of above it, as this is a more comfortable height for my wife, who is 5'4".

The side compartments can be accessed by pulling off the top panels. They rest on three removable shelf brackets, which is not the best design, and I think the style of hinges that Trexboxx uses works better.

For the daily driver configuration, the fridge surround can be removed, and you can order an additional drawer box (secured with bolts) and a top panel to create a flat platform.

I'm very impressed with the system. It's exceptionally well built, there are no squeaks or rattles as you drive, and it looks great.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out.

 

[sherman]

In the rear of the LC I installed a Kaon shelf. Here are the details:

• shipping took about 5 days
• packaging was well done and everything was bubble-wrapped
• build quality is excellent
• very sturdy, and although I think it would hold more than 22 pounds, I don't plan on pushing it
• looks great
• height from floor to bottom of the shelf is 34.25" (excluding drawer system)
• I'm 6'1" and the shelf does not block the view through the rearview mirror
• and yes... getting those handles off was a bit tricky

A bit expensive, but I'm very happy with the purchase.

More details and pics can be found in this thread.

 

[sherman]

For the fridge, I went with a National Luna Legacy 50L Dual Zone "Weekender." I didn't have a lot of requirements; I just wanted something that would fit and last a long time.

The four I narrowed it down to were:

• Dometic 55IM
• ARB Elements
• National Luna 52L
• National Luna 50L Dual Zone

I checked out the Dometic at REI, and I wasn't impressed with the build quality; it felt somewhat cheap, and I wouldn't say I liked how the lid latched. The ARB Elements was a strong contender and had great reviews.

In the end, I went with the National Luna (from Equipt Expedition Outfitters) due to their reputation and the fact that the lid could open from the side or front. Since I didn't have the drawer system before ordering, I wanted the flexibility to mount the lid both ways to make sure it wouldn't collide with the hatch. Also, the National Luna was about $200 cheaper than the ARB Elements.

The 52L and the 50L are both the same size, but the 50L is dual-zone, with a 40L main and a 10L freezer (which can also be used as a fridge). The 2L loss is due to the separator between the two compartments. The freezer stores ice cream bars for the kids and ice for "Daddy's Juice."

Both models have less insulation than the larger 55L and up models, hence the "Weekender" branding. While the fridge will need to run longer to keep things cool, it has one of the smallest volume/external size ratios of all the fridges I looked at (the worst was the Dometic 55IM).

Build quality is excellent, and the fridge is very quiet when running. It doesn't have the tech found in other fridges (like an iOS app, Bluetooth, etc.), but it's solid and gets the job done.

 

[sherman]

For power, the initial plan was to implement a dual battery system with hookups mounted in the 3rd-row seat release panels, like the following picture:

By the way, the blank panels are from the Heritage models, part numbers:
62644-60030-C0 Toyota Cover, quarter trim, right
62645-60020-C0 Toyota Cover, quarter trim, left

However, the estimates for this work ranged from $3000 to $4000, and I had been reading a lot about the problems with such a system (like a parasitic drain). So I scrapped that approach in favor of a portable battery system – the Ecoflow River Pro.

This is a great little unit that powers my fridge and recharges all my devices. I run a charging cord from the rear 12V outlet to the battery, then run a 12V power cord to the fridge. The battery supports pass-through charging, so you can charge the battery and power the fridge while driving.

Here are the details:

• Purchased the Ecoflow River Pro for $600 on Amazon.
• Purchased the Ecoflow 110W panel for $270 on eBay.
• The Ecoflow battery is rated at 720Wh, but it only has 75% efficiency or 540Wh usable (which is not great). This turns out to be around $110 per Wh, which isn't bad.
• A second 720Wh battery can be added to the River Pro for $329 (on eBay), bringing it up to 1440Wh at 78% efficiency, or around 1120Wh. This turns out to be approximately 0.88 cents per Wh, which is pretty decent. I will wait on this for now but will keep an eye on this option.
• DC output is 10A with surge up to 1200w, more than enough to cycle on a portable fridge.
• The battery can be fully charged using AC power in 1.5 hours (that is a correct figure). So you could try to charge it up when you go back into town for supplies, or during a restaurant stop, etc.
• The display is excellent, and it will let you know how much time you have left. There's also an iPhone app with state of charge details and additional settings.
• As many others have mentioned, the battery can be used for other things when not camping or for emergency use.

The battery will power my National Luna Legacy 50L for 56 hours at around 80 degrees external temperature before running out of juice. I haven't had to use the solar panels yet as the car seems to keep the battery topped off fairly well.

 

[Tex68w]

Great job on the build and the write-ups.

 

[Itsky]

Good thread. Liking what you’ve chosen. Top notch

 

[1world1love]

For power, the initial plan was to implement a dual battery system with hookups mounted in the 3rd-row seat release panels, like the following picture:



By the way, the blank panels are from the Heritage models, part numbers:
62644-60030-C0 Toyota Cover, quarter trim, right
62645-60020-C0 Toyota Cover, quarter trim, left

However, the estimates for this work ranged from $3000 to $4000, and I had been reading a lot about the problems with such a system (like a parasitic drain). So I scrapped that approach in favor of a portable battery system – the Ecoflow River Pro.

This is a great little unit that powers my fridge and recharges all my devices. I run a charging cord from the rear 12V outlet to the battery, then run a 12V power cord to the fridge. The battery supports pass-through charging, so you can charge the battery and power the fridge while driving.

Here are the details:

• Purchased the Ecoflow River Pro for $600 on Amazon.
• Purchased the Ecoflow 110W panel for $270 on eBay.
• The Ecoflow battery is rated at 720Wh, but it only has 75% efficiency or 540Wh usable (which is not great). This turns out to be around $110 per Wh, which isn't bad.
• A second 720Wh battery can be added to the River Pro for $329 (on eBay), bringing it up to 1440Wh at 78% efficiency, or around 1120Wh. This turns out to be approximately 0.88 cents per Wh, which is pretty decent. I will wait on this for now but will keep an eye on this option.
• DC output is 10A with surge up to 1200w, more than enough to cycle on a portable fridge.
• The battery can be fully charged using AC power in 1.5 hours (that is a correct figure). So you could try to charge it up when you go back into town for supplies, or during a restaurant stop, etc.
• The display is excellent, and it will let you know how much time you have left. There's also an iPhone app with state of charge details and additional settings.
• As many others have mentioned, the battery can be used for other things when not camping or for emergency use.

The battery will power my National Luna Legacy 50L for 56 hours at around 80 degrees external temperature before running out of juice. I haven't had to use the solar panels yet as the car seems to keep the battery topped off fairly well.

Great write up and it looks great. I think I saw your truck recently.

The Ecoflow is an interesting choice and it will be great to hear how it holds up. Looks like a very well made product line. And if that charge time is legit, I may need to take a look at this unit.

One thing I don't understand though, and it is a bit trivial to complain about, is why do so many of the manufacturers of these batteries make them with fixed handles that make them awkward to pack or store, or otherwise incorporate cleanly into a build. I love Jackery but that was one thing I could not get past. Again, it's trivial, but for my setup, GoalZero was the only option because most of the others have the rigid, fixed handle design whereas GZ has a fold down handle that makes the battery a nice rectangle box.

First world problem for sure, but a peave nonetheless. Do you think there is any way to remove the handle?

 

[sherman]

Great write up and it looks great. I think I saw your truck recently.

The Ecoflow is an interesting choice and it will be great to hear how it holds up. Looks like a very well made product line. And if that charge time is legit, I may need to take a look at this unit.

One thing I don't understand though, and it is a bit trivial to complain about, is why do so many of the manufacturers of these batteries make them with fixed handles that make them awkward to pack or store, or otherwise incorporate cleanly into a build. I love Jackery but that was one thing I could not get past. Again, it's trivial, but for my setup, GoalZero was the only option because most of the others have the rigid, fixed handle design whereas GZ has a fold down handle that makes the battery a nice rectangle box.

First world problem for sure, but a peave nonetheless. Do you think there is any way to remove the handle?

I totally agree on the handle. There's a new product called the Ecoflow Delta Mini that has a flat top, and I bet you could stack things on top of it. It's a bit more expensive, but also more powerful. Just wait for the next promotion at Costco.

 

[sherman]

So take this with a grain of salt as I am still waiting to have my explorer installed, but you can solve a lot of those problems with the James Baroud if you run a larger platform. I bought the backbone supports for the LX570 but a Defender 110 platform which is much larger. I am having the Explorer RTT, the Falcon 270, and the shower awning installed on mine with a few other accessories on the 25th of this month so I can let you know how that goes if your interested. I am also going go to run the tent backwards on my roof rack, which I know sounds strange, but with the latches where they are and where the doors are, it just made more sense that way for me.

A couple thoughts, you will run into the same issues with the front runner as the rhino rack unless you run a larger platform. IMHO, the front runner is less than ideal anyway because the floor of the James Baroud is completely flat and the edges are raised on the side of the front runner requiring you to raise the tent off the surface of the platform anyway if you wanted to run the front runner.

Here are some pictures to show you where I am headed with mine. Let me know if you have any questions.

I never thought about running a larger rack, that's a great idea!

If only solving for the rack covering the satellite fin, I could possibly remove the center slat or terminate it at the last cross beams, similar to how you've done this for your sunroof.