Bolt on turbo kit (3 Viewers)

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In the turbo diesel world, A2W has proven to be deficient, particularly when engine cooling is at the ragged edge. FMIC is the most effective, and reliable, and cheapest.
Granted, the needs of a turboed gassed are a little different, the basic physics / thermodynamics are the same.

Probably a discussion for another thread

Very different temperatures, compressions and fueling needs. If this were a diesel I’d totally agree 😜
 
The opinion / impression I'd like to hear is how the turbo climbs. With my 80 on 33's, stock gears, @ about 6,000 lbs I can't maintain 60 on a long hill ( and I have to drive long hills every day) and I have to kick down to second to get back up to 60, then it drops to third, slows down to 55 and back to second, etc.... This is with a fully rebuilt motor and all tuned properly with just a touch of timing advance. With the turbo will it go up it without all the drama? My GX470 climbed the same hills with no drama of course.
 
Yes, maybe? Without knowing your exact drive no one is going to be able to tell you if it is seamless. But it is going to be a lot more seamless than without.

The opinion / impression I'd like to hear is how the turbo climbs. With my 80 on 33's, stock gears, @ about 6,000 lbs I can't maintain 60 on a long hill ( and I have to drive long hills every day) and I have to kick down to second to get back up to 60, then it drops to third, slows down to 55 and back to second, etc.... This is with a fully rebuilt motor and all tuned properly with just a touch of timing advance. With the turbo will it go up it without all the drama? My GX470 climbed the same hills with no drama of course.
 
In the turbo diesel world, A2W has proven to be deficient, particularly when engine cooling is at the ragged edge. FMIC is the most effective, and reliable, and cheapest.
Granted, the needs of a turboed gassed are a little different, the basic physics / thermodynamics are the same.

Probably a discussion for another thread
Remember a TD is virtually always in boost, especially with something like a Gturbo, with the red wheel on the 1HDT, cruising at ~110km/h she was making 15+ psi, whereas with the FZ, virtually no boost (If not vacuum) on cruise so a lot 'easier' on an intercooler.
Was very happy with the performance of the front mount on the turbo FZ tho.
 
The opinion / impression I'd like to hear is how the turbo climbs. With my 80 on 33's, stock gears, @ about 6,000 lbs I can't maintain 60 on a long hill ( and I have to drive long hills every day) and I have to kick down to second to get back up to 60, then it drops to third, slows down to 55 and back to second, etc.... This is with a fully rebuilt motor and all tuned properly with just a touch of timing advance. With the turbo will it go up it without all the drama? My GX470 climbed the same hills with no drama of course.
Safari turbo + intercooler and H151, so not apples to apples, and don't know what your hills are like, but with stock 4.11s, armour and 315s on beadlocks, I never met a hill that she wouldn't pull at the speed limit, typically 100/110 km/h. I have a mate with an FZJ105, also on 35s and the difference is night and day with the turbo.
 
I'm sure it's been mentioned before but I'm struggling to find it with the search function. What size and model is the Borg turbo in these kits? Did the EFR series ever get a look in, I've been looking more and more at these lately.

Edit - never mind, found it. Airworks S300SX-E, could find the turbine housing A/R though? I'll keep looking
 
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The opinion / impression I'd like to hear is how the turbo climbs. With my 80 on 33's, stock gears, @ about 6,000 lbs I can't maintain 60 on a long hill ( and I have to drive long hills every day) and I have to kick down to second to get back up to 60, then it drops to third, slows down to 55 and back to second, etc.... This is with a fully rebuilt motor and all tuned properly with just a touch of timing advance. With the turbo will it go up it without all the drama? My GX470 climbed the same hills with no drama of course.


As a side note: With climbs like that, just shift it to second and keep it there. I'll hover around 3,900 RPM's until the climb is done.
 
A lot of off topic none applicable posts. I don't want readers to confuse diesel turbos vs gas turbos, or hill climbing without a turbo vs with a turbo.

Sbman if you can give any specifics about the route, elevation, length, grade etc. You could maybe find someone with this actual setup that can give you information about how it does on something comparable.
 
A lot of off topic none applicable posts. I don't want readers to confuse diesel turbos vs gas turbos, or hill climbing without a turbo vs with a turbo.

Sbman if you can give any specifics about the route, elevation, length, grade etc. You could maybe find someone with this actual setup that can give you information about how it does on something comparable.

I will find out what the grade percentage is. The various comments about putting it in second, etc. I know all that. I don't really enjoy having the motor screaming at 4000+ RPM to go up a hill on regular basis, it's part of my daily drive. I'm hoping that the turbo kit would be enough additional power for it to drive more like a modern SUV that doesn't have to spin so fast to maintain highway speed in mountainous terrain. If anyone that has the turbo kit installed can compare/contrast some common southern California roads (Southbound Grapevine on I-5?) that would be with the turbo, that's real world info I'd like to hear about. Thanks!
 
sbman, my experience with hills like I-70 through Colorado (6%-7% grade at 8000-10000 feet) at +/- 6 psi is that the drama won't be between 2nd and 3rd gear, but between 3rd gear and overdrive. Depending on the exact speed, overdrive can't quite hold it, so it drops to 3rd, which can easily hold it. So sometimes I just turn O/D off and cruise up the hill at lowish boost, or sometimes I try to play overdrive with the torque converter unlocked and see if I can hold the speed. That works a little better at say 70-75 than 60-65, just in a slightly better torque range.

If I were to leave it up to the cruise control it would jump back and forth between drive and overdrive.
 
sbman, my experience with hills like I-70 through Colorado (6%-7% grade at 8000-10000 feet) at +/- 6 psi is that the drama won't be between 2nd and 3rd gear, but between 3rd gear and overdrive. Depending on the exact speed, overdrive can't quite hold it, so it drops to 3rd, which can easily hold it. So sometimes I just turn O/D off and cruise up the hill at lowish boost, or sometimes I try to play overdrive with the torque converter unlocked and see if I can hold the speed. That works a little better at say 70-75 than 60-65, just in a slightly better torque range.

If I were to leave it up to the cruise control it would jump back and forth between drive and overdrive.
I will second this. Whatever hill requires the "60mph in 2nd gear" trick will be comfortable in 3rd gear. Whatever hill requires you drop it out of OD will now be comfortable in OD. That was my experience with 5.8psi running the various I-70 passes in Colorado.
 
@Irish Reiver when are you planning your turbo install? :)
:moon:

As soon as he mothballs his truck and gets a 97 😜

My '94 is not worthy unfortunately. I briefly toyed with the idea of picking up a '95+ but I am more likely to go toward the 70 series than a later model 80. When @NLXTACY has finished his build he might consider doing a temporary swap with me so he has a nice '94 for some OBD1 turbo R&D. :flipoff2:
 
After doing some really long hill climbs over by me I had noticed that bare metal of the downpipe emits more heat than I’m comfortable with. It needs to be ceramic coated and/or have it wrapped with a heat blanket. Blanket > wrap.

One of the things that was an eye opener was the AC shut off during the long climb do 80+. But my engine temps only hit 202°. As it turns out the intense heat the downpipe emits (without coating/wrap) AND it’s proximity to the hard AC Lin’s at the firewall (about an inch) means it was heating the AC lines causing the AC to shut off.

I did two things: I covered the downpipe with a wrap until the blankets are ready AND I put some heat wrap around the AC hard lines by using the same stuff I use for the long AC hose.

There is no very little heat except where the turbo/downpipe isn’t covered and the AC is blowing cool as ice.

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On the road go #SEMA and the turbo test mule is hitting Halloran Summit hard at 90mph the entire grade WITHOUT hunting for gears and the temps never get over 199.4°F

Yes it’s 90 because it’s stock gears on 35s so gotta add 11% 😉

Definitely a few folks wondering what the hell was going on. The guy in the blacked out and lifted Sequoia relinquished the fast lane and looked puzzled.

 

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