Bolt on turbo kit (10 Viewers)

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I spoke to Ron Davis himself today.
$1,105.00.
I totally understand quality products and get the craftsmanship expenses included in these products but does all the extra dough pay off? Is there like a 25 degree cooling difference or what's the huge payoff for such a pricey radiator?
 
Not a huge deal since most people running OEM rads last 15 years. But some of the plastic tank rads use s***ty plastic that don't last. A Ron Davis is all aluminum, TIG welded, and uses a high quality heat exchanging core and will last two lifetimes. Added expense probably not really worth it in a truck that drives 3 miles to work 2 days a week, but Ron Davis made his name in racing where a bad rad literally costs you the race.

I totally understand quality products and get the craftsmanship expenses included in these products but does all the extra dough pay off? Is there like a 25 degree cooling difference or what's the huge payoff for such a pricey radiator?
 
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Not a huge deal since most people running OEM rads last 15 years. But some of the plastic tank rads use s***ty plastic that don't last. A Ron Davis is all aluminum, TIG welded, and uses a high quality heat exchanging core and will last two lifetimes. Added expense probably not really worth it in a truck that drives 3 miles to work 2 days a week, but Ron Davis made his name in racing where a bad rad literally costs you the race.
That's kinda what I figured. If I were facing those issues then a race proven design makes a lot of sense. The plastic ones lost my trust years ago. My Ron Davis unit is on the list with my turbo kit when my lottery ticket comes in. ;)
 
Ah the importance of testing. This is a small example of why it takes me so long to bring some things to market. Sometimes testing doesn’t give the desired result and so you need to recalibrate and test again.

In this case I completely forgot to secure the methanol injection hose that goes to the nozzle post turbo. This caused the hose to drop and get with an inch of the turbo downpipe and this melting the sheathing on the hose. Now the hose itself is fine because it’s stainless sheathed with a Teflon inner tube. It’ll be fine, but it looks and smells ugly. So new hose being made and new heat sleaving going over it along with something to secure it in place.

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Do you guys like puzzles?

What are the options with a carbureted 1FZ?

There are a lot of great carbureted models here in Colombia for a good price, and I'm aware they can be converted to fuel injection with the stock injectors and aftermarket EFI’s...

Was wondering if fitting the turbo kit would be a future option going this route? Or should I focus only on 1FZ-FE variants?
 
Want to breathe new life into your 1FZ 80Series Land Cruiser? Want to add even MORE pep to your turbo install?

Well look no further than your throttle cable. I’ve always known this as a lockdown cable but Toyota calls it a throttle cable. The problem is yours has easily 200k miles on it and very very likely never ever adjusted. Now is the time. This cable dictates when the transmission shifts (ok one of the ways) and keeping it properly set will go a long way to making your truck feel like it’s driving and shifting properly.

Basically feel for the slack on the exposed cable end. Now move the nut all the way towards the rubber boot until it’s almost pushing to the boot off. The cable should feel taught without pulling. Then tighten the backside 14mm nut and violá!

BTW don’t judge the ugliness in my setup. I have to get things certified before I touch any of this side of the motor.

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Moved my boost and wideband gauge to a more ideal location. It's more visible than down low on the trans tunnel and not obstructing my view like a pillar pod.

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This gauge needs to have a "oh ****" and "hell yeah" printed at the correct locations!
 
I think we need a HUD option for extra gauges. Yes, I'm being serious.
Id love one!
That's one of the things i talked about in my gauge options thread.

They make OBD reader HUDS but nothing for external sensors that i could find.

Spent some time looking at this last week. Allows you to use stand alone sensors or OBDII.

 
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Spent some time looking at this last week. Allows you to use stand alone sensors or OBDII.


I watched the videos, quite interesting option I have to say.
 
Slightly turbo related.

I figure the actual turbo itself, coupled with all the new exhaust piping- J-pipe, down pipe with tubing for the waste gate, has got to add to under hood temps.

I don’t think this option will actually lower actual engine temps, but should help with heat attributed to the electrical components, rubber components, ect.

I saw an newer Jeep Rubicon at the gas station the other day. The factory Mopar hood louvers look rad. At least I’m my opinion. I ordered a set & will see how they fit with the existing hood support structure.

if anyone is interested these hood lovers are spec’ed for the 2018-2020Jeep JL Rubicon & Gladiator.


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Roughly 100/100
I've tried to follow this post by post and may have missed it, but don't think it's been written up yet - any chance can you give a comparison for driving impressions between the wet-1 turbo vs TRD s/c -as apples to apples as can be? More impressions on daily driving sort of comparison.
 

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