Theres nothing wrong with plumbing your snorkel into the existing air box
Bolt on turbo kit (15 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
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- Thread starter
- #2,762
The only bad part about that is, if water gets above the top of the snorkel, it will get sucked into the engine... lol.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I'll start working on a snorkel extender. It'll have to be Chinese-made so it can survive a roll over though
Bludozer
SILVER Star
If you are in water so deep it is above your snorkel I think you have bigger problems to worry about than your engine...
- Thread starter
- #2,767
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Might as well at this point
Well, Joey DOES think of EVERYTHING!
Maybe even a dry suit if you're needing the snorkel in winter......
- Thread starter
- #2,770
To bring this back on track. He really does think of everything. I am sure I am letting the cat out of the bag. But the inventory list for the instructions includes something close to 70 items! So you slackers better be grateful Joey ended up doing this project as I would have sent you like 4 things, the turbo, turbo manifold, downpipe and change pipe and told you to figure out the rest. lol.
Need Wits’ End custom milled, welded, hard anodized, gasket sealed and 100ATM pressure tested ECU waterproofing kit to complement snorkel extender.Might as well at this point
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
Just a teaser.
Ceramic coating engine parts porn later today!
I’m getting ready & need turbo-ness!
Ceramic coating engine parts porn later today!
I’m getting ready & need turbo-ness!
With amount of research and labor involved Joey is making a solid $1.26 an hour....give or take a nickle or two. Which oddly is a lot less than what he charged me for a reach...I mean some companionship before.
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
I had the luxury of having a parts cruiser sitting in my driveway. Which meant I could pull stuff, clean them up, & ceramic coat, with having my LX450 down for any real period of time.
I took the exhaust manifolds & heat shields & made them pretty.
Claim is 20% heat reduction. I’m skeptical of that, but they do look great.
I’ll have to do some research & see what else to look nice & colors, before the turbo is ready.
I took the exhaust manifolds & heat shields & made them pretty.
Claim is 20% heat reduction. I’m skeptical of that, but they do look great.
I’ll have to do some research & see what else to look nice & colors, before the turbo is ready.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Exact thing/color I did. Very happy with results.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
This is NOT a photo of our engines/turbo/setup. BUT, it does show what I am considering doing which I think will help a larger group of you instead of being shoe-horned into a single solution. If you look at this downpipe set up, its very similar to what I thinking about doing. There is the V-band at the turbo which goes to a flex joint and another V-band. Then off the wastegate there is another, smaller, flex joint. The flex joints mean there is some wiggle room between trying to keep all of the geometry in line which would be very tough. The thinking now, using this image as reference, to move the v-band to after the wastegate junction. I will keep all reducers to a minimum before this point.
But my reasoning to adding another v-band after that junction is so that the mating pipe could be 2.5" to go to stock setups, or for those that want to goose it, can just bolt up a 3" exhaust to the v-band. This way I don't have to dick around with trying to make more than one solution to make people happy.
Thoughts before I commit?
But my reasoning to adding another v-band after that junction is so that the mating pipe could be 2.5" to go to stock setups, or for those that want to goose it, can just bolt up a 3" exhaust to the v-band. This way I don't have to dick around with trying to make more than one solution to make people happy.
Thoughts before I commit?
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
I am all for flexiblity, and would like to see a v band instead of flange where the down pipe connects to “stock” exhaust.
I think if there is flex pipe on the turbine exhaust and on the wastegate dump, there probably is no need for the middle v-band (the one just after the flex pipe on the 3" section in your pic). Might help with installation, but also a (possibly unneeded) leak point.
The downpipe has to be at least 2 pieces in order to install/un-install, so a v-band after the wastegate plumbs back in is perfect. I also agree to keep that a 3" v-band and any reducers can be placed on the second (or third in your scenario) piece of pipe.
I like the use of vbands instead of bolted flanges
The downpipe has to be at least 2 pieces in order to install/un-install, so a v-band after the wastegate plumbs back in is perfect. I also agree to keep that a 3" v-band and any reducers can be placed on the second (or third in your scenario) piece of pipe.
I like the use of vbands instead of bolted flanges
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
I like what I read on v-bands.
I’m sure whatever route you decide to take will be of the highest quality, most power, ease of install, & most efficient.
Just make a decision and make it happen.
I’m sure whatever route you decide to take will be of the highest quality, most power, ease of install, & most efficient.
Just make a decision and make it happen.
