Bolt on turbo kit (2 Viewers)

[scottryana]

Yep I started this thread and I was the one that replied to your other thread. Swain Tech White Lightening is known to be the industry leader for ceramic coating it just all comes down to money. You can get the faux ceramic coating done for probably 1/3 of what the Swain Tech will cost.

It is also not a show quality finish, it’s rough like 100 grit sandpaper and kind of an offwhite/gray color. So some people don’t like that.

If you have the money, time and don’t mind the look there is no reason not to do it.

 

[HDJdreams]

White Lightning Exhaust Coatings | Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings


In another thread, I asked about ceramic coating heat insulating abilities. Looks like this product reduces ambient heat dissipation by 35-55%, cost for exhaust manifold ($200-ish), y-pipe ($80-ish)...

Curious about what peeps think about ceramic coating the j-pipes, turbo housing, any other parts to reduce underhood temps that I think will rise with this kit.

Discuss....

I dropped my manifolds and heat shields off yesterday for coating.

Titanium Ceramic Finish Heat Tolerance 2000 Degrees

The vendor also has a 2000 F black, but strongly recommended the titanium finish as being more durable. Will be $300 for all 4 pieces.

I will coat the other parts you mentioned if they are not already coated.

After the design is finalized, I’ll be consulting with Ryan and Joey about hood vents. I am not at all excited about butchering my hood, but if it can make a significant difference I’ll do it.

 

[OGBeno]

I DO know I don't want to surpass the price of the going rate for a SuperCharger which is currently $4400.

I don't know about anyone else, but that's an INSANELY good price for all of the R&D involved for a production item like this. Even if it was another $1000 it's still a great price.

Great work Joey.

 

[thatcabledude]

I agree. I was when I read that.

 

[PKP80]

I will likely do this on my setup personally, and it would be great if they would come that way, but given the overall sensitivity to cost, I would not recommend these come ceramic coated.

White Lightning Exhaust Coatings | Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings


In another thread, I asked about ceramic coating heat insulating abilities. Looks like this product reduces ambient heat dissipation by 35-55%, cost for exhaust manifold ($200-ish), y-pipe ($80-ish)...

Curious about what peeps think about ceramic coating the j-pipes, turbo housing, any other parts to reduce underhood temps that I think will rise with this kit.

Discuss....

 

[bucketman]

Ceramic coating would be a good option to offer. I would prefer to have the kit arrive ready to install and not have to send parts out for coating.

 

[NLXTACY]

To be clear, I will be ceramic coating both the J-pipe and Downpipe.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Faux ceramic or Swain ceramic coating?

 

[NLXTACY]

Faux ceramic or Swain ceramic coating?

My exhaust manifolds in both black and silver ceramic. They both still look like this after 6 years and 100k. Can you tell which one it is?

 

[Don Walker]

Sorry, I'm VERY late to this thread, but you caught my interest here. I'm finding that if I remotely get close to 10psi with my "mostly Safari" setup, it ping like a MOFU on premium. I have 170k on the clock and seems to be solid motor. It had a Unichip for years before I put a wideband on it and discovered that it was running STUPIDLY lean, to the point that it cracked my manifold. (My saga HERE.) So after that $3,500+ learning curve... it's all stock fuel management with a K&N filter.

Do you have something going on for fuel management? I am bringing the old girl out of the garage and might hit the dunes this year and would love to get it up to 10PSI safely if that is realistic.

PS - For those asking why turbo vs SC? It's hard to explain why turbo is SOOO much better. I've had 2 SC'd 4Runners, and my turbo'd 80. The power band of the 80 for all wheeling, especially sand is incredible. (Granted bigger base motor than the 3.4.)

If anyone is in Spokane WA they are welcome to take it for a spin to see the difference.

I'm in CDA and would love to see this.

 

[yoda-g3]

I'm in CDA and would love to see this.

Sure thing! I've already given a couple Mud members a test drive in it. I live in Nine Mile, work in Spokane, but also make trips to CDA on occasion. Just shoot me a PM if you want to try and figure something out.

 

[landtank]

@yoda-g3 what plugs are you running? Have you tried the NGKs that I've suggested/

 

[Rookie2]

Sure thing! I've already given a couple Mud members a test drive in it. I live in Nine Mile, work in Spokane, but also make trips to CDA on occasion. Just shoot me a PM if you want to try and figure something out.

That’s pretty cool man. If you’re ever bringing that rig through Knoxvegas, shoot me a PM lol.

 

[subzali]

@yoda-g3 what plugs are you running? Have you tried the NGKs that I've suggested/

I've been running the NGK BCPR7ES-11 that Safari recommends in their documentation. I haven't heard pinging on premium at high boost (accidently high boost close to 9 or so). Been wondering if the MR2 or Supra plugs recommended for 80 SC applications would be a possibility, or something with a dual electrode or something would be better.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I've been running the NGK BCPR7ES-11 that Safari recommends in their documentation. I haven't heard pinging on premium at high boost (accidently high boost close to 9 or so). Been wondering if the MR2 or Supra plugs recommended for 80 SC applications would be a possibility, or something with a dual electrode or something would be better.

For me Safari has a long solid track record (why I went with Safari) with my turbo being installed for 150K and 20+ years Im staying with what Safari recommends unless there is solid data to prove otherwise. Why F with it if there is no problem?

 

[Dragos80]

If dual electrode is better, than a 6 electrode is off the chart.
LPC Electronics, Inc.

 

[yoda-g3]

@yoda-g3 what plugs are you running? Have you tried the NGKs that I've suggested/

Hmmmm, going from memory, I got them from CDAN a few years back when I rebuilt the turbo, and I "think" I did NGK's, but bumped them 2 steps colder based on his advice on the phone. I basically got what he recommended for an SC'd truck. Does NGK 7 sound correct? That is the first thing that popped into my head.

But now you have me second guessing myself. I can go back and check.

Are the NGK BKR7E-11's you use a 7 or 11 heat range? (I'm not familiar with wha tthe model number represents.) If 11, I wonder if I should try them out to help with my pinging when is creeps over 7-8psi. I also wonder if I went iridium's.

My plan is to ditch my boost controller to see if the boost spikes mellow out first and cures my pinging before trying different plugs out and adding 2 variable to the mix.

I put the plug in when I rebuilt the turbine and WG, rebuilt the downpipe, removed the Unichip, added the boost controller, and changed plugs. So it was hard to say what "normal is" anymore.

 

[landtank]

Hmmmm, going from memory, I got them from CDAN a few years back when I rebuilt the turbo, and I "think" I did NGK's, but bumped them 2 steps colder based on his advice on the phone. I basically got what he recommended for an SC'd truck. Does NGK 7 sound correct? That is the first thing that popped into my head.

But now you have me second guessing myself. I can go back and check.

Are the NGK BKR7E-11's you use a 7 or 11 heat range? (I'm not familiar with wha tthe model number represents.) If 11, I wonder if I should try them out to help with my pinging when is creeps over 7-8psi. I also wonder if I went iridium's.

My plan is to ditch my boost controller to see if the boost spikes mellow out first and cures my pinging before trying different plugs out and adding 2 variable to the mix.

I put the plug in when I rebuilt the turbine and WG, rebuilt the downpipe, removed the Unichip, added the boost controller, and changed plugs. So it was hard to say what "normal is" anymore.

I believe they are a 7 which is 2 heat ranges lower than stock and 1 lower than the MR2s. They are also a copper plug which runs cooler than the platinum and iridium plugs. I'd give them a try, they are only around 2.00 a plug and available at advance auto.

 

[HDJdreams]

I am changing the thermostat while I have the cooling system apart. Would the turbocharged engine do better with the 170 or 180 degree thermostat?

I thought if nothing else the AC would do a little better?

 

[scottryana]

I would run the stock thermostat. I have the plain old stock thermostat and have zero problems with heat. You start running an engine too cold and you loose efficiency. And the coolant has very little bearing on the A/C. Clean out your A/C evap and condenser.

I am changing the thermostat while I have the cooling system apart. Would the turbocharged engine do better with the 170 or 180 degree thermostat?

I thought if nothing else the AC would do a little better?