Bolt on turbo kit (21 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

There is a legitimate argument on both sides of this, but just curious what your plans are in terms of rebuilding prior to installing this kit.

Complete and total rebuild?
Some degree of partial rebuild?
Slap that b*tch on and ride?
 
There is a legitimate argument on both sides of this, but just curious what your plans are in terms of rebuilding prior to installing this kit.

Complete and total rebuild?
Some degree of partial rebuild?
Slap that b*tch on and ride?
I’m in the rebuild and then turbo camp today...could change my mind.
 
Depends on the ceramic. There is only 1 true ceramic coating that I know of. The rest are just buzz words. The only true ceramic coating is Swaintech Whitelightning.

The other ceramic coatings are mostly cosmetic.

Tech Line Coatings is the place I get my stuff from. I used to offer it but the window of success applying it is very narrow and it is pretty far removed from powder coating so we bailed on doing it. I do buy their materials once in a while for my own stuff. I have some "Turbo X Black" waiting to go on my new turbo. I believe they supply many coating shops with material. Cool stuff.

You can check it out here: Home
 
Cool! Yeah the key to this kind of coating is the amount of ceramic in it and the actual thickness of the coverage. Coatings like Jet-Hot, are only probably 0.002" thick, while the Swaintech and it looks like the Turbo X can be applied 7 times thicker.

You can somewhat infer ceramic content by how hot you have to cure the coating. Powders are roughly 400f, while the ceramics are like 750-900f.

Tech Line Coatings is the place I get my stuff from. I used to offer it but the window of success applying it is very narrow and it is pretty far removed from powder coating so we bailed on doing it. I do buy their materials once in a while for my own stuff. I have some "Turbo X Black" waiting to go on my new turbo. I believe they supply many coating shops with material. Cool stuff.

You can check it out here: Home
 
Cool! Yeah the key to this kind of coating is the amount of ceramic in it and the actual thickness of the coverage. Coatings like Jet-Hot, are only probably 0.002" thick, while the Swaintech and it looks like the Turbo X can be applied 7 times thicker.

You can somewhat infer ceramic content by how hot you have to cure the coating. Powders are roughly 400f, while the ceramics are like 750-900f.

The failure tempurature usually follows as some number close to double the "cross linking" temperature with a few exceptions. Polyester powders will burn at a pretty low temperature (under 500°). Silicone powder coating stretches it nicely, curing just under 400° and holding up to 1200°.

Some ceramics cure at °550 and hang to that 1200°+ range, others (like turbo black), need over 750° to cure but hold up close to 2000°.

All have their ups and downs. High temperature resistance, flexibility, UV stability, corrosion resistance, impact resistance, ease of application, smoothness and gloss are all traded around depending on the coating and no coating does it all, unfortunately.
 
this is good info, gents. Thank you. Now, WTF did I put that cup of Joe.......
 
The Wits’ End umm... #FourWayPeacePipe For the #1FZ #Turbo and a big batch of them are done. These will get black zinc plated and then of course...laser etched

View attachment 1724300

Wouldn't it be better for the mark of shame to be on the top of the 'T' (wrong term I know) so you know you've screwed it on the correct way? Or can you install the original sensor before you attach the 'T'?

Thanks,
Andrew
 
Wouldn't it be better for the mark of shame to be on the top of the 'T' (wrong term I know) so you know you've screwed it on the correct way? Or can you install the original sensor before you attach the 'T'?

Thanks,
Andrew

The mark is more for me. I'm going to be laser etching this thing to make sure folks don't muck it up :p
 
Hey dudes, I’ve read all 74 pages of this thread, apologize in advance but I can’t remember if this question was asked/answered in the earlier pages. Is there going to be a limited run of these kits? Just bought my first landcruiser and my checking account is already hemmoraging money on wheels (props to Dustin/fn) and a lift (thanks David/Dobinsons) with bumper/sliders on the horizon and then gears. Turbo money will be late next year(ish)...am I going to miss the boat or should I re-prioritize?
 
Hey dudes, I’ve read all 74 pages of this thread, apologize in advance but I can’t remember if this question was asked/answered in the earlier pages. Is there going to be a limited run of these kits? Just bought my first landcruiser and my checking account is already hemmoraging money on wheels (props to Dustin/fn) and a lift (thanks David/Dobinsons) with bumper/sliders on the horizon and then gears. Turbo money will be late next year(ish)...am I going to miss the boat or should I re-prioritize?

I am making 25 kits for sure. Anything above that is TBD.
 
Does anyone have some hp and torque numbers on what a cruiser makes on 5-6 lbs of boost? I know every kit is different but would love some real dyno numbers.
 
Been going thru production hell on several other non-turbo parts so I haven't given this thread much love lately. BUT in the chaos I did manage to complete one part. The Peace Pipe is now done. I will be ordering up a slew of pressure switches from Toyota and the sender for the oil temp gauge I've decided I am NOT going to include but will instead include a 1/8" NPT plug only because any temp gauge you folks decide on will already include a 1/8" NPT gauge so zero point wasting money on another one.

These are all black zinc plated because brass will start to look like ass in no time. And of course...laser etched :flipoff2:

Wits-End-Peace-Pipe.png
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have some hp and torque numbers on what a cruiser makes on 5-6 lbs of boost? I know every kit is different but would love some real dyno numbers.

5-6 psi you will see around 150 rw kw and 550 ish rw Nm. [you can do the conversion lol]

10 psi should see around 180- 200 rw kw and 650 nm

12-13 psi 200-220 rw kw and 700 rw nm. [will be limit of good std 95 on injectors at max duty cycle]

Intercooled with a good tuning device and a bosch 040 or similar in tank pump and fuel reg installed.
 
I have seen this quote before and it sounds great but is mathematically impossible.

Sea level is 14.7psi of absolute pressure. And the truck makes 212hp. So going to 6psi which is just (20.7psi/14.7psi) a 40% increase the absolute max hp you could make with 100% efficiency would be 298hp, but is really more likely 260-270hp considering the generation of that turbo and the compressor map efficiencies available at the time.

t04e-57.gif




My Safari Turbo set up runs 5-6lbs of boost with a large intercooler -

From lcool.org - With turbocharger and intercooler, a reliable 240KW (~325hp) of power and 540NM (~400ft/lbs) of torque makes the 80 feel 1,000kg lighter
 
I have seen this quote before and it sounds great but is mathematically impossible.

Sea level is 14.7psi of absolute pressure. And the truck makes 212hp. So going to 6psi which is just (20.7psi/14.7psi) a 40% increase the absolute max hp you could make with 100% efficiency would be 298hp, but is really more likely 260-270hp considering the generation of that turbo and the compressor map efficiencies available at the time.

t04e-57.gif
 
I have seen this quote before and it sounds great but is mathematically impossible.

Sea level is 14.7psi of absolute pressure. And the truck makes 212hp. So going to 6psi which is just (20.7psi/14.7psi) a 40% increase the absolute max hp you could make with 100% efficiency would be 298hp, but is really more likely 260-270hp considering the generation of that turbo and the compressor map efficiencies available at the time.

t04e-57.gif


Maybe mathematically but the seat of the pants meter says its all there.:D My wife recently drove ours and when it hit 2K she backed out and ask what happen.LOL It only take 150' to know you are not driving a stock motor much different than a SC.
 
Haha oh I know, it makes much more torque down low. But still doesn't make 325hp. :)

I have not done a very good job I think relaying that even when you are not in "boost" you are still creating more power. Everyone asks when will I make max boost, but you also have to consider that even if you are in vacuum you are in less vacuum than when NA.

I bet if you watch your boost gauge if you had one, you wouldn't see positive manifold pressure until 2k but like your wife says it is definitely there in the seat of your pants.

Maybe mathematically but the seat of the pants meter says its all there.:D My wife recently drove ours and when it hit 2K she backed out and ask what happen.LOL It only take 150' to know you are not driving a stock motor much different than a SC.
 
Haha oh I know, it makes much more torque down low. But still doesn't make 325hp. :)

I have not done a very good job I think relaying that even when you are not in "boost" you are still creating more power. Everyone asks when will I make max boost, but you also have to consider that even if you are in vacuum you are in less vacuum than when NA.

I bet if you watch your boost gauge if you had one, you wouldn't see positive manifold pressure until 2k but like your wife says it is definitely there in the seat of your pants.

I bought my turbo 80 before it hit 2nd and that was before I knew the price:hillbilly:

I have a boost gauge but when its moving to the plus side I need to watch the road:D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom