Bolt on turbo kit (3 Viewers)

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Concerning ceramic coatings...

Folks I have a choice to make and I need to make sure everyone understands what is what because whatever I go with has plus and minuses.

There are two types of ceramic coating: paint based and plasma based. Everything other than Swaintech is paint based with ceramic particles. For the majority of applications the paint based is fine and comes in a range of temps and colors. Swaintech has no options, it’s one coating type.

Paint based is thin where Swaintech is very thick.

Paint based can be applied to all surfaces. Swaintech can only be applied to exterior surface and must be masked around mating surfaces.

Swaintech is for extreme racing applications. Does ours qualify? Meh. Dunno.

Keep in mind that Swaintech coating is off-white and is just ugly. It feels like clumpy sandpaper. And over time it gets uglier.

Time for paint based is days. Swaintech is one month.

Not trying to sway, just inform. But one extra sucky piece is it has to go from LA to east coast and back to LA.
 
The other benefit of turbo VS supercharger is that the turbo responds better at elevation than a supercharger.

This is because as the density of the air decreases with elevation, the turbo simply spools up faster because it move easier with less dense air, therefore, adjusting to the MASS of air required.

A supercharger has a fixed volume per rotation and as the density decreases, so does the mass per revolution and the RPM is only whatever the engine is turning, so your performance drops.

Turbos were originally developed for airplanes at elevation and that is where they excel.

Then you change spool and speed and diameter to "tune" it to your application.

Anything above 3500 ft ASL the density of the air has dropped enough that cooling becomes a problem because there's not enough MASS of air moving across the radiator anymore. At 5000 Ft, the density is 0.66 that at sea level.

Also, for the HP Gain, turbos are historically less $$/HP than a SC.

YMMV but science is an art.
 
NLXTACY said:
Concerning ceramic coatings...

Folks I have a choice to make and I need to make sure everyone understands what is what because whatever I go with has plus and minuses.

There are two types of ceramic coating: paint based and plasma based. Everything other than Swaintech is paint based with ceramic particles. For the majority of applications the paint based is fine and comes in a range of temps and colors. Swaintech has no options, it’s one coating type.

Paint based is thin where Swaintech is very thick.

Paint based can be applied to all surfaces. Swaintech can only be applied to exterior surface and must be masked around mating surfaces.

Swaintech is for extreme racing applications. Does ours qualify? Meh. Dunno.

Keep in mind that Swaintech coating is off-white and is just ugly. It feels like clumpy sandpaper. And over time it gets uglier.

Time for paint based is days. Swaintech is one month.

Not trying to sway, just inform. But one extra sucky piece is it has to go from LA to east coast and back to LA.
Click to expand...

So is the main concern longevity or heat?
 
NLXTACY said:
Concerning ceramic coatings...

Folks I have a choice to make and I need to make sure everyone understands what is what because whatever I go with has plus and minuses.

There are two types of ceramic coating: paint based and plasma based. Everything other than Swaintech is paint based with ceramic particles. For the majority of applications the paint based is fine and comes in a range of temps and colors. Swaintech has no options, it’s one coating type.

Paint based is thin where Swaintech is very thick.

Paint based can be applied to all surfaces. Swaintech can only be applied to exterior surface and must be masked around mating surfaces.

Swaintech is for extreme racing applications. Does ours qualify? Meh. Dunno.

Keep in mind that Swaintech coating is off-white and is just ugly. It feels like clumpy sandpaper. And over time it gets uglier.

Time for paint based is days. Swaintech is one month.

Not trying to sway, just inform. But one extra sucky piece is it has to go from LA to east coast and back to LA.
Click to expand...


My opinion:
One of the key aspect of the Land Cruiser/LX platform is longevity and reliability.

I would lean toward whichever will give the best design that fits that mindset.
 
NLXTACY said:
Concerning ceramic coatings...

Folks I have a choice to make and I need to make sure everyone understands what is what because whatever I go with has plus and minuses.

There are two types of ceramic coating: paint based and plasma based. Everything other than Swaintech is paint based with ceramic particles. For the majority of applications the paint based is fine and comes in a range of temps and colors. Swaintech has no options, it’s one coating type.

Paint based is thin where Swaintech is very thick.

Paint based can be applied to all surfaces. Swaintech can only be applied to exterior surface and must be masked around mating surfaces.

Swaintech is for extreme racing applications. Does ours qualify? Meh. Dunno.

Keep in mind that Swaintech coating is off-white and is just ugly. It feels like clumpy sandpaper. And over time it gets uglier.

Time for paint based is days. Swaintech is one month.

Not trying to sway, just inform. But one extra sucky piece is it has to go from LA to east coast and back to LA.
Click to expand...

I'd go paint based. Unless you are running WOT running 30+ Lbs. boost swaintech is wasted.
 
danthman114 said:
ill take it if you don't want it. ill drive from Yuma to phoenix to get it too...
Click to expand...

Dude sorry 37 min is just passed fashionably late :p plus hes Sold his first and ive claimed his next. Lol

LandCruiserPhil said:
For me needed service after 20 years and 150K+ is respectable for something that make you ride haul ass:D
Click to expand...

I agree with your selection but it seemed served with a bit of elitist i got one and you dont sauce ;)

Anecdotal evidence for @bluedozer and others. Lots of SC rigs running around with little to no maintenance. Me, 14yr and 140k (173k install with HG -313k) here in hot but no elevation NC and no issues sans the IAC and TPS extension failure. Though unit may be due for rebuild at some pojnt shortly just based on time miles. Shows no sign save maybe a louder nose cone bearing or paranoid ears

Me, I’m game for a turbo and unfortunately got dirked over on my donor rig here recently but i want more than 5-8psi and i cant afford that addiction at the moment.
 
jfz80 said:
Dude. Way passed fashionably late :p
Sold his first and ive claimed his next. Lol



I agree with your selection but it seemed served with a bit of elitist i got one and you dont sauce ;)

Anecdotal evidence for @bluecruiser and others. Lots of SC rigs running around with little to no maintenance. Me, 14yr and 140k (173k install with HG -313k) here in hot but no elevation NC and no issues sans the IAC and TPS extension failure. Though unit may be due for rebuild at some pojnt shortly just based on time miles. Shows no sign save maybe a louder nose cone bearing or paranoid ears

Me, I’m game for a turbo and unfortunately got dirked over on my donor rig here recently but i want more than 5-8psi and i cant afford that addiction at the moment.
Click to expand...
Dont cry or hate on me for having it. PM and buy my turbo 80...no waiting
 
No hate, no thanks and no tears here :beer:
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Dont cry or hate on me for having it. PM and buy my turbo 80...no waiting
Click to expand...

Trade for a bone stock triple locked 80 with fresh paint?
evil.gif







I don't actually think I could sell/trade it I've fallen in love with it
 
Dimples said:
I'd go paint based. Unless you are running WOT running 30+ Lbs. boost swaintech is wasted.
Click to expand...

I’ve made no decision but I can be swayed either direction. I think at this point everyone should at least agree that I want what is best, not what is cheapest/easiest.
 
NLXTACY said:
I’ve made no decision but I can be swayed either direction. I think at this point everyone should at least agree that I want what is best, not what is cheapest/easiest.
Click to expand...

What is the finish, cost, & turn around time for the second ceramic coat Scott & another member were discussing?

It was thicker that “regular” ceramic & based out of Tennessee I believe...?
 
jjdeneen918 said:
What is the finish, cost, & turn around time for the second ceramic coat Scott & another member were discussing?

It was thicker that “regular” ceramic & based out of Tennessee I believe...?
Click to expand...

By thicker we aren’t talking microns, like anodize, we are talking 10/15 thou so more like plaster. Mating surfaces is a consideration as is the gap between the two pipes which is very narrow now.
 
NLXTACY said:
Concerning ceramic coatings...

Folks I have a choice to make and I need to make sure everyone understands what is what because whatever I go with has plus and minuses.

There are two types of ceramic coating: paint based and plasma based. Everything other than Swaintech is paint based with ceramic particles. For the majority of applications the paint based is fine and comes in a range of temps and colors. Swaintech has no options, it’s one coating type.

Paint based is thin where Swaintech is very thick.

Paint based can be applied to all surfaces. Swaintech can only be applied to exterior surface and must be masked around mating surfaces.

Swaintech is for extreme racing applications. Does ours qualify? Meh. Dunno.

Keep in mind that Swaintech coating is off-white and is just ugly. It feels like clumpy sandpaper. And over time it gets uglier.

Time for paint based is days. Swaintech is one month.

Not trying to sway, just inform. But one extra sucky piece is it has to go from LA to east coast and back to LA.
Click to expand...

Perhaps my wife is having an effect on me, but efficiency is the route I would take. To determine if it’s truly efficient, I would need to have an idea of how much heat would be radiated by the ceramic paint, vs Swaintech or other high end coating. My headers are still gunna be hot, the j-pipe is gunna be hot; so roughly how much cooler will the under hood temps be at idle with a 100 degree ambient temp, and is the stock cooling system really going to notice a difference of even 5-10% cooler turbo housing when all these other components are still hot?
 
I have a ceramic coated (painted) y-pipe on my Tacoma and it still looks new. Sees all the elements. Been on my truck for a couple of years.
 
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