Bludozer
SILVER Star
Never a good idea to run a forced induction vehicle of any kind without the highest octane possible.
Bolt on turbo kit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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maybe pack a can of this stuff for when you know you'll be subject to what ever may be found in the backwoods
PTP turbo just called and said the blankets will be ready in about four weeks and they are sending me the sample of the CT-26 turbo blanket for the turbo I sent them a couple months ago. I’ll be adding these to the site pretty soon as well
View attachment 1908325View attachment 1908326View attachment 1908327
This’ll be nice for the turbo on my 13bt
Measured, marked, punched, drilled, positioned, drilled again and drilled one more time. Tapped the holes, checked alignment and fit. FIPG, some teflon tape and done. Not rushing, Probably 35-40 minutes total. Joey has packaged a nice assortment of bits and whatnot to make this an easy deal. Only thing I might suggest is a cardboard template for those who suffer from analysis paralysis when it comes to putting a whole in a perfectly good oil pan. Im excited about this and for the wit’s end brand to bring this kit to market. Well done Joey!
More pics As a visual reference
Last few
alia176
SILVER Star
Nice job dude, lots of people will be happy with these pics. Thanks for taking the time.
@Willy beamin with the pan off, why not tig a return bung on? Not that the drill/tap isnt sufficient, just curious.
Im not that fancy
NLXTACY
Wits' End
And he loves me enough to take better pics and document the process for everyone else’s benefit 
So, with the pan on, just change oil to remove metal shavings?
Getting to that spot and doing what needs to be done with the pan in the truck is not going to be pleasant. I would pull the pan. Most of them leak at the rear arch in any event and this is a good excuse to fix that.
Best practice would be to remove the lower pan so you can physically see if you're leaving any shavings behind and wipe them up with your fingers or a cloth if so.
What I did (not best practice), is leave the lower pan in place, coat your drill bits and taps in heavy grease to catch the shavings (they'll stick to the grease), then change the oil, running extra through to get some flushing affect.
Pretty sure Joey's detailed instructions will address this
Speaking from experience, yes you are correct. Seeing as I've got the rear upper pan leak, I really wish I had pulled the pan to fix it and then drill my upper pan on the bench, but I was intimidated by the upper pan process. Now a couple years later, I'm probably going to have to go back and do it anyway, so I shoulda just done the upper pan seal when I had a good excuse.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
NOOOOOOOO
You MUST remove the lower pan. The upper pan does NOT require removal but, as CDAN mentioned, its a good opportunity for the rear arch seal. With lower pan removed, after drilling, you should use carb clean or brake cleen to spray out the inside of the area to let the shavings roll down. Then use a cloth to remove the shavings.
NOOOOOOOO
You MUST remove the lower pan. The upper pan does NOT require removal but, as CDAN mentioned, its a good opportunity for the rear arch seal. With lower pan removed, after drilling, you should use carb clean or brake cleen to spray out the inside of the area to let the shavings roll down. Then use a cloth to remove the shavings.
Hey, I'm just here to ask the stupid questions so others don't have to.
$10 says you can shoot it with a .22 lr and it’ll bounce off!
Sorry to be “that guy”, but removing the upper pan is an absolute pain. I don’t know if having a pro install this part might be a better alternative for some folks, but if you’re not a regular wrencher, do not take this pan removal job lightly. You have to lift the motor up an inch or two off the mounts (which takes an engine lift) along with a mixture of other suspension gymnastics, to get that mother out.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Nothing in my instructions requires removing the upper pan. Not needed.
