Bolt on turbo kit (14 Viewers)

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maybe pack a can of this stuff for when you know you'll be subject to what ever may be found in the backwoods
 
Measured, marked, punched, drilled, positioned, drilled again and drilled one more time. Tapped the holes, checked alignment and fit. FIPG, some teflon tape and done. Not rushing, Probably 35-40 minutes total. Joey has packaged a nice assortment of bits and whatnot to make this an easy deal. Only thing I might suggest is a cardboard template for those who suffer from analysis paralysis when it comes to putting a whole in a perfectly good oil pan. Im excited about this and for the wit’s end brand to bring this kit to market. Well done Joey!

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More pics As a visual reference

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Last few

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Nice job dude, lots of people will be happy with these pics. Thanks for taking the time.
 
Im not that fancy
 
So, with the pan on, just change oil to remove metal shavings?
 
Getting to that spot and doing what needs to be done with the pan in the truck is not going to be pleasant. I would pull the pan. Most of them leak at the rear arch in any event and this is a good excuse to fix that.
 
So, with the pan on, just change oil to remove metal shavings?

Best practice would be to remove the lower pan so you can physically see if you're leaving any shavings behind and wipe them up with your fingers or a cloth if so.

What I did (not best practice), is leave the lower pan in place, coat your drill bits and taps in heavy grease to catch the shavings (they'll stick to the grease), then change the oil, running extra through to get some flushing affect.

Pretty sure Joey's detailed instructions will address this ;)
 
Getting to that spot and doing what needs to be done with the pan in the truck is not going to be pleasant. I would pull the pan. Most of them leak at the rear arch in any event and this is a good excuse to fix that.

Speaking from experience, yes you are correct. Seeing as I've got the rear upper pan leak, I really wish I had pulled the pan to fix it and then drill my upper pan on the bench, but I was intimidated by the upper pan process. Now a couple years later, I'm probably going to have to go back and do it anyway, so I shoulda just done the upper pan seal when I had a good excuse.
 
So, with the pan on, just change oil to remove metal shavings?

NOOOOOOOO :(

You MUST remove the lower pan. The upper pan does NOT require removal but, as CDAN mentioned, its a good opportunity for the rear arch seal. With lower pan removed, after drilling, you should use carb clean or brake cleen to spray out the inside of the area to let the shavings roll down. Then use a cloth to remove the shavings.
 
NOOOOOOOO :(

You MUST remove the lower pan. The upper pan does NOT require removal but, as CDAN mentioned, its a good opportunity for the rear arch seal. With lower pan removed, after drilling, you should use carb clean or brake cleen to spray out the inside of the area to let the shavings roll down. Then use a cloth to remove the shavings.

Hey, I'm just here to ask the stupid questions so others don't have to.
 
$10 says you can shoot it with a .22 lr and it’ll bounce off!
 
Sorry to be “that guy”, but removing the upper pan is an absolute pain. I don’t know if having a pro install this part might be a better alternative for some folks, but if you’re not a regular wrencher, do not take this pan removal job lightly. You have to lift the motor up an inch or two off the mounts (which takes an engine lift) along with a mixture of other suspension gymnastics, to get that mother out.
 
Sorry to be “that guy”, but removing the upper pan is an absolute pain. I don’t know if having a pro install this part might be a better alternative for some folks, but if you’re not a regular wrencher, do not take this pan removal job lightly. You have to lift the motor up an inch or two off the mounts (which takes an engine lift) along with a mixture of other suspension gymnastics, to get that mother out.

Nothing in my instructions requires removing the upper pan. Not needed.
 

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