great thread - thank you! I have no experience in detailing, no I want to dig into it. Btw, I like the wheels you have on your truck. Not in your profile, the ones on it in this post.
Thanks again.
Body trim polishing & correcting compounds
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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Thanks again.
Elsie now has new 07 LX470 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST Maxx tires! I did a quick wax job last week...
In more related news, I am gonna be wetsanding and buffing a member's 200 hopefully this coming Sunday. I'll try to document when I do it!
In more related news, I am gonna be wetsanding and buffing a member's 200 hopefully this coming Sunday. I'll try to document when I do it!
@2001LC I was reading your thread on your newest find (the garnet '07) and was impressed with your detailing skills. I wonder if you have any suggestions on our 4runner. It is an 01 with 114K miles. Spent most of it's time in Florida so the underside looks great! The top however has begun to fade and I am wondering if there is anything I can do short of having it painted. I'd really like to avoid painting the car, but would also like to avoid serious rust issues. The fading is very visible in direct sunlight as shown in pictures, but is not noticeable in shadows/lower light conditions.
Thanks
Thanks
Pics are hard to tell, but if it's clearcoat failure (which in certain parts it does), the only option you'll have is to repaint.
Compounds can only go so far in terms of reviving a faded finish, as you can't make a paint "darker" by polishing.
If it's oxidized, a heavy cut compound like Meguiar's 105 or 3M 36060 or even in a pinch Meguiar's Ultimate Compound from a local can do wonders. I dont usually recommend the last product as it doesnt have a lot of cut relatively speaking compared to the other two products, but is relatively easy to use without a multi-step polishing session. It contains Meguiar's patented SMAT abrasives which allow the user to compound without the usual heavy swirl marks which come after. A lighter polish after is still required but compared to products I've used, it does well on its own. There are compromises though, as a lot of the consumer-based products don't offer the aggressiveness of the "professional" dedicated products. I say "professional" as in products which are used in a bodyshop or pro detailing setting and not normally sold through retail chains like Walmart or Advance Auto. These options may or may not restore the finish without wetsanding.
In certain cases, I will wetsand first and then compound due to the time it'll take with a compound alone. I'll usually use a 3M Trizact 2000 (30666) or 3000 (02085) grit pad in combo with a handheld DA and go over the entire panel. Keep in mind, factory clearcoat is thin as hell so care must be used! Follow up with the 5000 grit pad (30662) to aid in the final buffing process. You can buff out 3000 grit swirl marks but it takes longer.
This is an option for experienced users only, and not something you should try and experiment on with a vehicle you value... Trust me, I know... I screwed up the hood of my mom's Lexus back when I thought I knew it all.
Lemme know if you have any questions, 16+ years in the business!
Cheers,
Rich
Edit: added parts numbers for sanding discs.
Compounds can only go so far in terms of reviving a faded finish, as you can't make a paint "darker" by polishing.
If it's oxidized, a heavy cut compound like Meguiar's 105 or 3M 36060 or even in a pinch Meguiar's Ultimate Compound from a local can do wonders. I dont usually recommend the last product as it doesnt have a lot of cut relatively speaking compared to the other two products, but is relatively easy to use without a multi-step polishing session. It contains Meguiar's patented SMAT abrasives which allow the user to compound without the usual heavy swirl marks which come after. A lighter polish after is still required but compared to products I've used, it does well on its own. There are compromises though, as a lot of the consumer-based products don't offer the aggressiveness of the "professional" dedicated products. I say "professional" as in products which are used in a bodyshop or pro detailing setting and not normally sold through retail chains like Walmart or Advance Auto. These options may or may not restore the finish without wetsanding.
In certain cases, I will wetsand first and then compound due to the time it'll take with a compound alone. I'll usually use a 3M Trizact 2000 (30666) or 3000 (02085) grit pad in combo with a handheld DA and go over the entire panel. Keep in mind, factory clearcoat is thin as hell so care must be used! Follow up with the 5000 grit pad (30662) to aid in the final buffing process. You can buff out 3000 grit swirl marks but it takes longer.
This is an option for experienced users only, and not something you should try and experiment on with a vehicle you value... Trust me, I know... I screwed up the hood of my mom's Lexus back when I thought I knew it all.
Lemme know if you have any questions, 16+ years in the business!
Cheers,
Rich
Edit: added parts numbers for sanding discs.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #87
^^^ What @landylover21 said he's the expert. I'd only add; the sooner you clean any contaminants out of paint and wax in ways mention this thread, the sooner you stop additional damage.
Whats does a rookie want to use?
Claybar pad
Claybar towel
Claybar disc
Also to reiterate the correct order below -
Wash
Claybar
Polish
wax
Thx
Claybar pad
Claybar towel
Claybar disc
Also to reiterate the correct order below -
Wash
Claybar
Polish
wax
Thx
The standard claybar with varying degrees of aggressiveness. I've found the claybar pads that attach to buffers too risky as there's a higher chance of damage if contaminants get caught in between the pad and the paint.
Some people use different options to save time and or labor, but I prefer the tried and true claybars combined with a good clay lube.
Yes. Wash, claybar, wash again (if you're so inclined), polish with proper level of cut for your finish, seal with wax or sealant.
FWIW: In my detailing side business/hobby/experience I like the clay pad for the buffer. The hand clay pad/sponges don't work as well in my opinion and the clay towels are hit or miss. I haven't seen any side effects from contaminants marring/scratching the paint in the 3 years I've used them and countless cars.
The traditional clay does work well but is slow and if you drop if, you just have to throw it away.
A good quality lube is paramount though as a cheap one or one that is not properly diluted can marr the paint.
The traditional clay does work well but is slow and if you drop if, you just have to throw it away.
A good quality lube is paramount though as a cheap one or one that is not properly diluted can marr the paint.
The pad interested me for a lot of the reason you noted above. Doing a little searching on the pad the term keep the surface very wet is noted a lot. Is there other ways to keep the surface wet something like a home brew due to the cost of Mequires Quick Detail? Are all pads created equal?
I use various clay lubes but some popular ones are Nanoskin Glide, Optimum No Rinse diluted 2oz/gallon (most economical), Chemical Guys Clay lube or, as you mentioned, you can use Megs (or similar) quick detailer.
I like the Nanoskin buffer clay pad personally. It is a bit expensive but will do a couple dozen cars minimum and Nanoskin is one of/the best brand for synthetic clay products. Just be sure to have the correct size backing plate on your buffer to fit the pad
Even though the dealer just buffed my 06 Lexus the hood had a sandpaper feel to it and I knew it needed the clay bar treatment. I ended up with a AutoBodyNow clay bar towel and used Optimum No Rinse as a lube. Both exceeded my expectations, I was amazed how much junk/dirt? the clay bar towel pulled up leaving the hood with a smooth glass feel. Followed it up with some Mequires wax. 
Thanks guy for all the great advice and how-to.
Thanks guy for all the great advice and how-to.
