Body panel replacement - why in this order?

[Vae Victus]

I am replacing my rear sill, quarter panels, and out side rocker panels, as well as the floor pans on both the drivers and passenger side of my 1976 Fj40.

CCOT says to replace them in this order:

Rear sill, quarter panels, rocker panels. The floor is being done before any of the above.

My question is, since I am replacing the floor pans, can’t I safely go ahead and replace the two rocker panels while I can get access to them without the floorpans being in the way? It just seems logical to do that now.

But I am assuming there are some logic to CCOT saying I should do them in the order that they specified. Here’s the link with that assertion.

Body Panel Installation

 

[1969FJ]

Reading that instruction set, CCOT did not change the floors along with all the others. My guess would be to do what you are saying. I do not believe any real difficulty will come from it.

 

[scoutingranch]

I've been doing box top Bronco's for decades ('66-'77). I sit in the garage and map a logical path to repair. Or. what makes sense.
New sheet metal, sheet metal screws, drill, insert sheet metal screws and once all lined up start stich welding Drill holes in top metal so that weld will penetrate into lower metal.
Then, remove sheet metal screws and weld up holes. It's all about taking your time and using your eye. I try and do one task a day when time allows.
At the end of the week......I've done seven tasks.

 

[B y r o n]

Their instructions are done without a floor being in the vehicle. Take a look at how the seams overlap. If you're not touching any of the panels that are going to be replaced later then probably not a problem to do the floor first. You just don't want to do a lot of work only to tear back into it and do it all over.

 

[Splangy]

Your order should be just fine. I just wouldn’t remove the floors and rockers at the same time without welding in some serious bracing first. Otherwise you’ll likely have some body alignment issues when you’re done.

 

[dodored]

I have been building rusty 1934 ford coupes for years and what I have learned is that once you set the body free, it is really hard to get it back the way it was. I have struggled with door alignment and rear glass fit more times than I can say. My advice is to screw that panels in the order that you mentioned, but tack weld them so you can start over if you have to. Check rear door fit and alignment along with where the top mates up. The doors are the real acid test. Its like a concert - all the instruments need to play the right notes, and most certainly at the right time. If not you end up with chaos.

 

[Kleatus]

I lined up my quarters, sill and rear floor and floor pans with all the doors and hardtop on. I had the top suspended by ratchet straps from the ceiling. No issues lining things up. I think keeping it square is more important than any particular order, of course subject to the type/location of the seams (butt or overlap, etc.)

 

[JohnBoy]

I have been building rusty 1934 ford coupes for years and what I have learned is that once you set the body free, it is really hard to get it back the way it was. I have struggled with door alignment and rear glass fit more times than I can say. My advice is to screw that panels in the order that you mentioned, but tack weld them so you can start over if you have to. Check rear door fit and alignment along with where the top mates up. The doors are the real acid test. Its like a concert - all the instruments need to play the right notes, and most certainly at the right time. If not you end up with chaos.

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Just helped a friend with a 2 year project on a 30 Ford some dude put in a ditch. The body was twisted be we finally got it true. I just gave a lot of friend help. I never thought we'd get those doors to line up and close properly. Plus, it had been previously chopped and I don't believe that whoever did it, had a ruler. What a mess.

Your spot on when it comes to temporarily tacking panels with the ability to move them when needed.

 

[Vae Victus]

Yes, I've got it braced, and already have one floor panel replaced, so I'll only have the driver for plan and front side of the rocker loose before tacking the rocker and floor back in.

You can see the bracing in these two shots, sort of. They cross diagonally from left to right, and inside the door frames, from front to back.

I figure it can't be much looser than it already is now since the front side of the rocker is so rotten, and it is cut loose from the floor plan already to release the pan.

In addition to that, the rear quarters do not overlap any seams for the rockers or floor pans - they simply butt together, and a single bolt and nut hold the rear of the rocker edge to the front of the quarter panel edge, plus a small 3/4" long lip that wraps the lower edge of the rocker and quarter. Picture may help below.

 

[secretsquirrel]

I had the same type of question from looking at the ccot website panel replacement page. Probably not all that many crazy's out there rebuilding the entire tub to warrent a page on their website. Im in the same boat as you are to and ill be going with scoutingranch s suggestion of sheet metal screws.

 

[scoutingranch]

I left off locking C clamps....ooops This allows you move/tap a panel just enough at times and lock it in. I use the heck out of mine.
And please..........don't take anything I write as to serious.........I think Judge Judy is hot

 

[Vae Victus]

I left off locking C clamps....ooops This allows you move/tap a panel just enough at times and lock it in. I use the heck out of mine.
And please..........don't take anything I write as to serious.........I think Judge Judy is hot

LOL - I like the sheet metal screws idea.

 

[tstepp920]

I have been building rusty 1934 ford coupes for years and what I have learned is that once you set the body free, it is really hard to get it back the way it was. I have struggled with door alignment and rear glass fit more times than I can say. My advice is to screw that panels in the order that you mentioned, but tack weld them so you can start over if you have to. Check rear door fit and alignment along with where the top mates up. The doors are the real acid test. Its like a concert - all the instruments need to play the right notes, and most certainly at the right time. If not you end up with chaos.

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I'm taking my 40 to you to do the body and paint. make a spot

 

[dodored]

I'm taking my 40 to you to do the body and paint. make a spot

I would love to help you, but I do only metal fab - No paint. Let me know if I can be of service.