Blue seas add a battery kit.

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Nope the negative lug is at the other end of the fuse panel. That's main supply in and also the feed to my inverter. Welding cable is black so I used red shrink tubing so its clear. I didn't bother using the grounds of the fuse block - to me that's a lot more wire and loom to run back to a common point. Blue sea makes their fuse panel like this cause its notoriously difficult to find grounds on a boat.

In automotive its so much easier to ground near the location of the device you're installing. I am not using any of the grounds on the fuse block
 
danthman114 said:
Question, the blue sea diagram shows running 2 separate cables from the positive. One with a fuse to one side of the acr and another unfused cable to the switch. Same for both batteries. It's just a bypass for the ACR. Now why would they run separate cables when they could have just run a jumper from the ACR to the proper terminals on the switch? Guess I'll have to give them a call.
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The ACR is a smart device. When your house battery dips below 10 volts ( I think its 9 point something according to blue sea but my memory is bad as Installed five years ago) the ACR stops drawing power from the start battery. Its so you can still start off the main battery. Jumping across the posts on the ACR will mess with the isolation. You'd still draw

I didn't install the switch, redundant in my opinion, and don't think I want to manually draw off my start battery at all.

Been running like this for five years - I haven't had to replace the deep cycle house yet which is surprising as they usually don't last very long.
 
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gofast said:
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I like this. Are those breakers water resistant? I have 2 150a blue sea breakers sitting in my Amazon cart right now.
 
Too high an amperage. You need to caculate your maximum amperage that you'll draw from your fuse block. Most of my accessories need 10 amps each. The block allows for 12 fuses so potentially 120 amps with everything on. That's not usual for how I run things. So I went conservative with 80 and haven't seen a problem. Water resistant is available.
 
The battery cut off switch us only useful in case your ANL fuses don't work. And for temporary storage of the vehicle so you dont draw down. Just as easy to remove your groud strap off the negative post of your battery if you need to store the truck.
 
Not quite true @gofast The switch allows you to bridge the 2 ACR leads and self jump start.
 
the fuses on the acr circuit have nothing to do with accessories gofast, that is strictly for charging. because of the acr, the 2 batteries are completely isolated. its when you add the switch you can jump, run your extra fuse block and those cables are separate from the acr cables. however, I just got off of the phone with blue seas and they told me I could eliminate the extra length of cable from pos on batt 2 to the switch and just put a jumper from the acr terminal to the terminal on the switch. anyone know the amp draw for the starter?
 
Not saying ANL is for accessories. Not sure where you got that. Seems like you sorted your application out though -interested in seeing what you finalize on.

Mines simpler. But I carry jumper cables.
 
yeah I think I misunderstood what you wrote and you misunderstood what I wrote in the post before that. I asked about the 150a breakers for the acr circuit being waterproof. where I think the breakdown happened was on the fuse panel and total draw for those circuits...

my fuse block wont go through the 150a fuse but direct from the aux battery to the top left terminal post on the switch... that is if I wire it like that.
 
Here is my setup. ACR is tucked in against fender next to 2nd battery tray. 2nd battery powers a fuse block under the hood and an additional one in the cargo area. I really liked the blue seas terminal fuses for fusing the cables connecting the ACR. The circuit breakers are also useful. Allows me to turn off power to the fuse block when adding an accessory.

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danthman114 said:
I like this. Are those breakers water resistant? I have 2 150a blue sea breakers sitting in my Amazon cart right now.
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This is what I used. Am pleased with it. It is assembled in mexico. I don't think any of the breakers are made in the USA any more.

It says it is waterproof.

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LS1FJ40 said:
This is what I used. Am pleased with it. It is assembled in mexico. I don't think any of the breakers are made in the USA any more.

It says it is waterproof.

View attachment 1407624 View attachment 1407625
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this is the one I have in my amazon cart... but 150a
the only thing about breakers is they activate thermally and have a lifespan. the more thy trip the shorter the life gets. just like a gfci. plus with the heat here in Yuma and engine heat, I may just stick to fuses...
 
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DanMedeiros said:
Here is my setup. ACR is tucked in against fender next to 2nd battery tray. 2nd battery powers a fuse block under the hood and an additional one in the cargo area. I really liked the blue seas terminal fuses for fusing the cables connecting the ACR. The circuit breakers are also useful. Allows me to turn off power to the fuse block when adding an accessory.

View attachment 1407601
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does your switch make contact with your hood and where did you put the fuses or breakers for the acr?
 
danthman114 said:
this is the one I have in my amazon cart... but 150a
the only thing about breakers is they activate thermally and have a lifespan. the more thy trip the shorter the life gets. just like a gfci. plus with the heat here in Yuma and engine heat, I may just stick to fuses...
Click to expand...

My concern with using something fused is having to carry another type of spare fuse. Numerous guys have been using breakers in hot climates without issue.
 
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