Blue seas add a battery kit. (1 Viewer)

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danthman114

danthman114

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Mar 17, 2015
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Location
Yuma, Az
I searched around and didn't really find the answer I was looking for, so here I am asking those of you who have experience in this system.
First, the optional led. Is it something you can pick up somewhere or is it built in?

Second, give me some ideas where to install this kit and the blue seas fuse block and inline fuses. I want to make it nice and clean.
Third, the start isolation terminal in the center of the three on the ACR. Is it needed?

More questions to come...
 
Thanks but still have unanswered questions. As far as wiring gos, that's not a problem. Simple really. I wanted to know about the 3 terminals on the bottom of the ACR. One is ground obviously but the other 2. One for an LED and the other hooks into an ignition wire?
 
So there is a built in LED in the 7610. It's small, hard to see and under the hood. That terminal is to run an LED inside the cab of your truck. You need to purchase the LED from BlueSea separately (make sure to get the 12volt one, not the 120v ac one) and mount it anywhere you like. It tells you when the 7610 is in "combine" mode-ie joining the batteries under charge. It's very handy and I have the LED in all 3 of my installs. BTW-the red LED is much easier to see than the amber LED.

The ignition terminal does not need to be hooked up. It is a "start interrupt" circuit. So if the 7610 is combined when you start the truck, it forces it to open the relay before the power comes online. It's an optional feature and only needed if you have very sensitive electronics (like radar) on the #2 circuit. Not an issue in your average Land Cruiser.

The ground terminal is the only one absolutely needed. It serves as the ground reference for the 7610. Hook it to battery ground with a small inline fuse-I used 5 amp. It doesn't carry any current and the fuse is only there if something goes wrong inside the relay-it prevents that ground from becoming a short and causing a fire.
 
danthman114 said:
Thanks but still have unanswered questions. As far as wiring gos, that's not a problem. Simple really. I wanted to know about the 3 terminals on the bottom of the ACR. One is ground obviously but the other 2. One for an LED and the other hooks into an ignition wire?
Click to expand...

I didn't use them. +Battery in and out the other side to the second batter + terminal on battery, and ground from blues sea acr. Been working flawlessly for 4 years.

Fuse each + wire as close to the battery as possible. I used circuit breakers instead of single incident fuses.
 
I mounted my isolator to the firewall above the brake booster. Fuse panel in rear quarter compartment on pass side. 2awg wire that feeds fuse panel run from 2nd battery down the inside of the frame rail to the rear where I ran uo p through the rear cargo floor.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
So there is a built in LED in the 7610. It's small, hard to see and under the hood. That terminal is to run an LED inside the cab of your truck. You need to purchase the LED from BlueSea separately (make sure to get the 12volt one, not the 120v ac one) and mount it anywhere you like. It tells you when the 7610 is in "combine" mode-ie joining the batteries under charge. It's very handy and I have the LED in all 3 of my installs. BTW-the red LED is much easier to see than the amber LED.

The ignition terminal does not need to be hooked up. It is a "start interrupt" circuit. So if the 7610 is combined when you start the truck, it forces it to open the relay before the power comes online. It's an optional feature and only needed if you have very sensitive electronics (like radar) on the #2 circuit. Not an issue in your average Land Cruiser.

The ground terminal is the only one absolutely needed. It serves as the ground reference for the 7610. Hook it to battery ground with a small inline fuse-I used 5 amp. It doesn't carry any current and the fuse is only there if something goes wrong inside the relay-it prevents that ground from becoming a short and causing a fire.
Click to expand...

For the led, I have many different colors of LEDs in my shop for fire alarms. You say 12vdc must be used does a resistor have to be used as well so it doesn't burn out?
 
No resistor needed in any LED's I've installed in 12V, expect maybe turn signal bulbs to keep them from flashing too fast.
 
OK guys. I must have spent an hour and a half figuring out where I'm going to put everything. There is a serious lack of space for a clean install. Anyone that has THIS kit, if it's not too much trouble, post some pics of where you installed the relay/fuse/switch and how you ran your cables. I looked at that pic from Slee but the hoods hydraulic support for lack of a better name makes contact. The only other place that would look good is driver's side firewall toward the top but that's alot of cable. 2 cables from the POS side over there. Pics please. Also, the neg to neg cable path. Under the rad in front? Wheres the best out of the way but cleanest path to take. Where was factory?
 
OK guys, here's where I am this far. Terminals that I have done have been crimped and soldered. I used 2awg for everything so far and I may need more. I decided on locating the ACR on the DS firewall and the switch over the hole into the cab. It's the only place it will fit but I'm going to make some 1" spacers to leave some room to fish wires through. On the 4 rear lugs of the switch I'll be putting heat shrink over them when it's all together for safety. Added a hand throttle from cruiser parts and I thought it was going to be complicated and it was simple and self explanatory. BTW, that freaking engine ground bolt about dislocated my damn shoulder. Lol.

As far as the question I asked about the led having a resistor. I was correct. LEDs can't handle that kind of voltage without it. Not for long anyway... Pics...

IMG_20170221_162702982.jpg


IMG_20170221_155013445.jpg


IMG_20170221_163040616.jpg


IMG_20170221_163006350.jpg


IMG_20170221_163030395.jpg
 
I wish I could help you but this isn't an upgrade I've undertaken yet. Don't get discouraged though, just keep working at it and you will be providing solutions and ideas for the next guy! That might be me!
 
For future reference:. The blue sea led for the ACR yellow wire with the resistor is negative and plugs into the led terminal (right one of the 3 on the bottom) and the red will plug into my fuse block with 2a fuse.
 
Good choices on mounting location. I used just the ACR and not the switch on my 80 and mounted the ACR on the battery box. What you've done looks great and should work fine.
 
My ACR is mounted to the inside of the fender directly behind the battery tray (and under my 80 amp breaker). I stole the mounting idea for the breaker (and added my solar controller) from @NLXTACY. My Blue Sea fuse panel is mounted to the top of the cruise control box.

IMG_3024.JPG
 
I used the same unit shown here in the same location;

img_20170221_163006350-jpg.1406945


I also used blue sea's recommended ANL fuses
5005.png

one right after the starter battery and one just before the house battery

and I placed their fuse block ( same one shown here)

img_3024-jpg.1407120


in the covered cubby in the passenger side cargo area beside the third row seat.

Allowed me to run power for ham, heated seats, fridge, inverter, exterior lighting, sub tank fuel pump etc. All circuits have been used

upload_2017-2-21_21-10-2.png


I also have an 80 amp breaker in between the postive of the house battery and the blue sea fuse panel but mine's mounted on the plastic cover of the cruise control cover.

I purchased slee's washer relocation kit, and a passenger side factory battery box from a jdm 81 series but the pre 1993 NA trucks have the same battery box on the passenger side as the JDM's. I purchased bulk welding wire cable to run as a source from the house battery to the blue sea fuse block. It's interrupted by the 80 amp breaker. My inverter is also powered using the same welding cable. In my picture of the cubby location, the main power is attached by lug, and is also the source for the inverter. My inverter is mounted on the side of my storage unit.
 
Last edited:
Question, the blue sea diagram shows running 2 separate cables from the positive. One with a fuse to one side of the acr and another unfused cable to the switch. Same for both batteries. It's just a bypass for the ACR. Now why would they run separate cables when they could have just run a jumper from the ACR to the proper terminals on the switch? Guess I'll have to give them a call.
 
In the above picture it looks like the + and - terminals are combined at the same point on the fuse panel....?? Am I seeing that right?
 
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