Hi Dan,
Can you provide some more details on your experiences thinning Rust Bullet?
You said Rust Bullet provided you with info on thinning it. Can you post that info? Everywhere on their site they say not to.
You said the painter sought to make the rust bullet good again after thinning it too much (with the heavy elements falling out) by adding more rust bullet. Does this work?
How much could you thin it with MEK? Did you trial a bit first to see the maximum ratio?
Lastly, are you planning on doing the engine block in Rust Bullet aswell?
I'm sure there are lots of others curious! I am sitting here with my can wondering how to apply it and get the most coverage. I've searched extensively and no one has posted any details about thinning it apart from you.
Cheers,
Hamish
Hi, Hamish.
First, I have to tell you we had a problem with the Rust Bullet (Standard - gold label) clumping and becoming unusable when we thinned it with the xylene that was made up locally. Unfortunately, the xylene became contaminated with water (or was delivered that way - I think this is the actual case) and it resulted in wasting several pints, since the painter completely ignored my requests, and later demands, that he stop trying to thin the RB with the xylene. Once that was sorted, we looked for other alternatives. MEK had been mentioned as an alternate to xylene, so when the panel beater was able to find a liter in an unopened tin, we tried that. Works GREAT! As it turns out, the MEK also works well with the urethane based paints the panel beater favors, so he has obtained a good supply to use in his shop.
As for thinning, this apparently should only be done with the gold label, not with the automotive grade, which is supposed to be ready to spray right out of the tin. To thin the gold label, we just use MEK and thin it about 8-10%.
Here's what Frank Ciglar at RB had to say:
"The main difference between Standard and Automotive is that the standard is about 5% thicker. When you thin it by 1 1/4 oz it equates to 8% thinning.
Sounds like either the Xylene or product became contaminated somehow. Do
you have access to Toluene or MEK? If so use could either one. Not more than
1 1/4 oz per pint should thin the product enough to spray regardless of
which solvent you go with."
As for painting the engine - yes, I plan to use it (silver and Black Shell) on the block. It is supposed to be able to handle temps to about 350-400 F. If I don't use the RB, I'll use an industrial paint I was able to get from S Africa - it is supposed to be good for use on petrol and diesel engines (generators, etc.) I may actually use the silver RB and top coat it with the silver industrial paint on the smooth bits and use the black shell on the cast block. Exhaust parts will be painted with a high temp (1200F) aluminium paint (only $17/400ml rattle can

); the intake manifold and other aluminum bits will be cleaned up, but not painted.
HTH.
FWIW, I haven't posted for awhile because we hit another snag with at the panel beater.

I think I have it fixed, and everything back on track, but have been too busy with work to get down there to check. I hoped to be able to bolt the chassis back together last week and get it and the engine back home, but it didn't happen. Maybe this week...

Dan