You are correct the ones YOU mod are the the same.
Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You are correct the ones YOU mod are the the same.
- Thread starter
- #782
Well, this is my thread about my mod. And that point is important to me.
I wanted to give a big thanks to everyone who has contributed to this subject and many others. I am in the middle of changing the oil in my fan clutch as I type this. One thing I noticed was there is not much oil in mine and it spun pretty easily at ambient temp. Repair manual says it should resist spinning, more so when at op temp.
Mine did not have much resistance. I'm guessing that it has never been serviced like many other things on my truck minus oil changes and maybe the tranny but not even sure about that. Comparing what has drained from mine in a couple of hours (I know it takes a while but...) I think some has leaked out at some point. I'm guessing maybe a quarter of a Dixie cup has come out!
The o-ring looks pretty good. I'm replacing the fluid with 10k and no adjustment. Temps have been climbing some (mostly on hills) now that the weather is warming.
Mine did not have much resistance. I'm guessing that it has never been serviced like many other things on my truck minus oil changes and maybe the tranny but not even sure about that. Comparing what has drained from mine in a couple of hours (I know it takes a while but...) I think some has leaked out at some point. I'm guessing maybe a quarter of a Dixie cup has come out!
The o-ring looks pretty good. I'm replacing the fluid with 10k and no adjustment. Temps have been climbing some (mostly on hills) now that the weather is warming.
Slick17255
SILVER Star
Landtank I owe you one and all the other contributors.
Temp started creeping up in general driving and worse or quicker to push 200-212 with a trailer. The longer I drove the higher the temp creeped up. Got to 220 one trip before having to turn on the auxiliary heaters. Not fun when it is 90 F plus outside. I started hunting for problems/solution to trouble shoot and found this thread.
Decided to try 15K oil. Then decided to order an Aisin clutch from Amazon to put it in and start fresh. Right box wrong part so I just modded the old one. Man was that an improvement.
I haven't been able push it over 196 since and mostly 190. Similar ambient temps.
Temp started creeping up in general driving and worse or quicker to push 200-212 with a trailer. The longer I drove the higher the temp creeped up. Got to 220 one trip before having to turn on the auxiliary heaters. Not fun when it is 90 F plus outside. I started hunting for problems/solution to trouble shoot and found this thread.
Decided to try 15K oil. Then decided to order an Aisin clutch from Amazon to put it in and start fresh. Right box wrong part so I just modded the old one. Man was that an improvement.
I haven't been able push it over 196 since and mostly 190. Similar ambient temps.
Thanks Guys! I tried my 93 black hub set at 95* w/15k earlier in the summer and the temp moved up a little bit but not to red on a NorCal 100* day, 70 mph on the highway, loaded with no trailer but a Yeti 105 cooler mounted in front of the grill.
I modded a spare blue hub to 95* and 20k and put it in the same truck. This weekend I went back up to the NorCal mountains loaded heavy, pulling a loaded trailer (maybe 3-4k) with the Yeti mounted on it's rack in front of the grill and the AC blowing cold air the whole time in outside temps ranging between 98 and 109 on the highway @ 60+ mph and slow winding steep grades through the mountains. The temp gauge stayed between 2/5 ths and 1/2 and never went above 1/2. I like how cool it ran but I must say that it sucks air like a 757 and does rob some of the much needed power and mileage went down a bit. I may stay with the blue hub and try 15k or maybe try 20k in the black hub just to compare. Before I do any more testing, I'm going to do the RavenTai gauge mod using 100/150 ohm res. so that I get a better handle on temp movement. But because I carry my cooler up front, I can't depend on ram air during the hot weather. Dan
I modded a spare blue hub to 95* and 20k and put it in the same truck. This weekend I went back up to the NorCal mountains loaded heavy, pulling a loaded trailer (maybe 3-4k) with the Yeti mounted on it's rack in front of the grill and the AC blowing cold air the whole time in outside temps ranging between 98 and 109 on the highway @ 60+ mph and slow winding steep grades through the mountains. The temp gauge stayed between 2/5 ths and 1/2 and never went above 1/2. I like how cool it ran but I must say that it sucks air like a 757 and does rob some of the much needed power and mileage went down a bit. I may stay with the blue hub and try 15k or maybe try 20k in the black hub just to compare. Before I do any more testing, I'm going to do the RavenTai gauge mod using 100/150 ohm res. so that I get a better handle on temp movement. But because I carry my cooler up front, I can't depend on ram air during the hot weather. Dan
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
I would find another place for the cooler, airflow around the front of the rig is important.
- Thread starter
- #788
I figured it was overkill but I knew that it was going to be hot up there this week and I wanted to play it safe as well as experiment. So are you thinking I should stick with the blue hub @95* and drop the oil to say 15k? I really liked the airflow that I got with the 95/20k even sitting at idle for 45 min. waiting for construction at the Buckhorn Pass in 106* it kept it nice and cool but I want to bring it down to just what it needs and nothing more. I just don't want to spend too much time fishing around with temp or oil settings if your experiences can get me close enough. I am also thinking about the possibility of raising the temp. setting a bit so that it will be slower to engage during the winter, your thoughts on that would be appreciated as well. I do have another 93 FZJ and two black hubs to mess around with if you think black would suffice.
The cooler up front works REALLY well and I only run warm on the really hot days during the summer. The cabin is super remote (hour from nearest town) and by the time the wife, kids and 110 lb hound pack all of their crap on the back and top along with extra fuel, tire chains, winch, chainsaw, truck tools, building tools and supplies ect.. every square inch is spoken for so the fold down cooler rack gives it a designated spot, especially in the winter (sometimes it goes on the back in the summer).
Sorry if you've already answered these questions, I petered out in the early 30's with the reading.
The cooler up front works REALLY well and I only run warm on the really hot days during the summer. The cabin is super remote (hour from nearest town) and by the time the wife, kids and 110 lb hound pack all of their crap on the back and top along with extra fuel, tire chains, winch, chainsaw, truck tools, building tools and supplies ect.. every square inch is spoken for so the fold down cooler rack gives it a designated spot, especially in the winter (sometimes it goes on the back in the summer).
Sorry if you've already answered these questions, I petered out in the early 30's with the reading.
- Thread starter
- #790
I was more commenting because you said it robbed some power. If 20k works and your fine with it then OK.
If you are basing your temp gauge movements on a stock 80 temp gauge.... you're in for a big surprise after you install the RT mod. Yeah, the stock gauge barely moves...until just before it overheats. Then it's practically too late. To be honest, I'm surprised you didn't install an aftermarket gauge to get an accurate reading before going through all these trials with the fan clutches.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
There are two tools for tuning: The valve adjustment changes when the fan runs, turning it down is kinda like running a cooler thermostat. It's also progressive, so has some effect on power. Fluid viscosity changes the power that drives the fan.
For a blue hub and desert conditions, I would run at least 20K. With higher viscosities, tuning the valve down excessively isn't that helpful and can be counter productive. Really no need to run the fan all summer? Maybe back off on the valve a bit, take some load off of the belts and see how that works?
The good part, it's tuneable, so mess with it and see what works for your rig.
Hi, can any fan clutch get rebuilt with this mod? I have a 94 FJ80 and you can stop it by news paper.
There no clutches local can I rebuild mine?
There no clutches local can I rebuild mine?
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
What clutch, picture?
I haven't come across one that can't be done.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
To add on to Tools' message, there are a few different types and the viscosity of fluid and adjustment varies based on which type you have.
so yes, need to know either what clutch it is or get a picture
Recently replaced my OEM hub with one from landtank via wits end... prior to this my truck in central Florida heat and humidity (monitored by ultraguage) was seeing ambient intake temps of 110+ and engine temps in the 220range and creeping higher when stationary... once the blue hub went in... temps went back to 194\195 max in any temp Florida could throw at it... went to Alabama and wound up sitting idling for 2 hours and temps ever went past 195
This mod is worth the money...
This mod is worth the money...
Its ok if you can stop it with newspaper when the engine is cool. It doesn't really engage until it reaches a higher temp. Still worth doing probably, but staged engagement is the whole point of the clutch.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
rebuilt my auqa hub last year with 12.5 CSK and a setpoint of about 100*. Truck stays below half with AC and 110 at 70 with a trailer(manual fj62). this tech is PRICESLESS
Question: (I think the answer is yes) but just to be sure, is the fluid capacity (full drain) of Blue Hub clutch less than 59 ML?
I have a bottle of 20K fluid that has 2 oz. (59ml) and want to be sure that is enough fluid to replace the contents of my blue hub once I drain it. Don't want to get started on this and not have enough to complete the project.
Also, IF the O-Ring does not become dislodged when taking the unit apart (maybe they always do?) is it OK to just leave it alone or does it have to be cleaned before re-assembly? I know if you mess it up you are screwed.
Thanks, Flint.
I have a bottle of 20K fluid that has 2 oz. (59ml) and want to be sure that is enough fluid to replace the contents of my blue hub once I drain it. Don't want to get started on this and not have enough to complete the project.
Also, IF the O-Ring does not become dislodged when taking the unit apart (maybe they always do?) is it OK to just leave it alone or does it have to be cleaned before re-assembly? I know if you mess it up you are screwed.
Thanks, Flint.
