2fpower
SILVER Star
Been thinking about getting an AC tig machine. Have an Aqualu tubbed 40, and would like to make some doors. What unit are you using? Any recommendations?
Builds Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction
- Thread starter Mieser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
I have an AHP AlphaTig 200X. In my opinion they can't be beat for the money. I believe the newest version is $700 new. They are a 110/220 machine that will go up to 200 amps on 220. AC/DC, pulse, balance, and the new ones have frequency control. My only recommendation is to add a better quality foot pedal.
- Thread starter
- #263
More Aluminum TIG practice today...
Clean gloves. Clean rags. Acetone bottle. Clean stainless brushes dedicated to aluminum use. Clean tungsten grinding. Clean Clean Clean.
I tried a lot of different settings. I think I am getting ok results, but I still get the odd black spec floating in the weld every so often. I don't think this is a deal breaker, but dang it is annoying.
AHP AlphaTig 200x older model without AC frequency control.
3/32nd 2% lanthinated Tungsten with 1x ball end
#7 cup and maybe 1/8 stickout
20 cfh of Argon
100amp
AC balance set to to 11 o'clock or so
5052-H32 Material
3/32nd 5356 filler
I think tomorrow I am going to finish off the 1st pass on this pad plate. Then start on making a small box to try some corners....
Clean gloves. Clean rags. Acetone bottle. Clean stainless brushes dedicated to aluminum use. Clean tungsten grinding. Clean Clean Clean.
I tried a lot of different settings. I think I am getting ok results, but I still get the odd black spec floating in the weld every so often. I don't think this is a deal breaker, but dang it is annoying.
AHP AlphaTig 200x older model without AC frequency control.
3/32nd 2% lanthinated Tungsten with 1x ball end
#7 cup and maybe 1/8 stickout
20 cfh of Argon
100amp
AC balance set to to 11 o'clock or so
5052-H32 Material
3/32nd 5356 filler
I think tomorrow I am going to finish off the 1st pass on this pad plate. Then start on making a small box to try some corners....
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
cool, its satisfying applying skills to a new technique, material etc. I recently picked up a TIG for the first time in 20years too. I like it 
Looking at this makes me think I should have got an AC/DC unit
Did you make/modify your clamps for use in fixture holes? or did you buy them like that? I'm going to make my self a small welding bench with some fixture holes in it
Looking at this makes me think I should have got an AC/DC unitDid you make/modify your clamps for use in fixture holes? or did you buy them like that? I'm going to make my self a small welding bench with some fixture holes in it
- Thread starter
- #265
I made them. I just cut the end off cheap HF clamps and TIG welded on a hex head screw.
I drilled and tapped the table on a 6" grid pattern for 3/8-16. It has been VERY handy.
- Thread starter
- #266
Just more practice over here....
I think things are getting better, but still not there yet...
I am going to try some 1/16 filler instead of 3/32nd. I think that will help out a little bit with the puddle getting too cool too fast when trying to work corners.
I can functionally make a tank right now, but it will not look like I want.
Things that seem to be helping on outside corners.
-A tapered 2% Lanthinated Tungsten with a slight flat on the end seems to work better than a ball for outside corners for sure.
-Slightly less amps seems to be required for outside corner work. I'm doing 1/8" 5052 at 100-110 amps max and not really needing to mat the pedal.
-Make the tack welds as small as you can.
I think things are getting better, but still not there yet...
I am going to try some 1/16 filler instead of 3/32nd. I think that will help out a little bit with the puddle getting too cool too fast when trying to work corners.
I can functionally make a tank right now, but it will not look like I want.
Things that seem to be helping on outside corners.
-A tapered 2% Lanthinated Tungsten with a slight flat on the end seems to work better than a ball for outside corners for sure.
-Slightly less amps seems to be required for outside corner work. I'm doing 1/8" 5052 at 100-110 amps max and not really needing to mat the pedal.
-Make the tack welds as small as you can.
- Thread starter
- #268
I needed a break from TIG welding for a night.....
I made some 10 gauge tie in plates for the rear bumper/crossmember made and got them tack welded into place.
I decide to have the fuel fuel tank skidplate made out of house. I just couldn't really bend 1/4" thick 5052-H32 aluminum comfortably, even in my new press. That stuff is just stiff. Once the skidplate is done I can finalize the dimensions on the fuel tank and start construction on that.
I made some 10 gauge tie in plates for the rear bumper/crossmember made and got them tack welded into place.
I decide to have the fuel fuel tank skidplate made out of house. I just couldn't really bend 1/4" thick 5052-H32 aluminum comfortably, even in my new press. That stuff is just stiff. Once the skidplate is done I can finalize the dimensions on the fuel tank and start construction on that.
I like, I like a lot.
I've enjoyed following along so far...looking forward to more.
What's the latest?
- Brian
What's the latest?
- Brian
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Can't wait to see it with some coils in the suspension.
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This is so good! Jealous af!!
- Thread starter
- #275
Been slacking, sorry all.
With EJS prep, EJS, the flatty run, and having to buy a replacement DD in there I got a few things done.
I finally got the gas tank skidplate cut and bent. It is 1/4" thick aluminum that is about 41" wide which is just to much for my press. Honestly, I had the plate laser cut with all the features I wanted and cnc bent along with shipped for less than I could get a sheet of material for locally.
The skidplate bolts to the rear bumper bracket and also has two 10mm rivet nuts in the bottom of the frame per side for weight support.
I'm still getting use to this aluminum TIG welding thing. This 1/4" stuff about maxed out my home welder. It isn't coming back apart. I am pretty sure about that.
After test fitting a few different templates for the bottom profile of the tank I decided on the final shape for the tank....
Made a print for the tank with all the bend centerline information and transferred that over to some 1/8" 5052-H32 aluminum.
Cut it out using the trusty jig saw with 14tpi Bosch blades with a touch of wax on the blade.
Bent up the main part of the tank in one go on the press brake I built a little bit ago. I was able to do all 4 bends in this design to make a complete tube with only one seam on the top front. The last bend made the ends pinch the top truss, but the material is flexible enough to allow that. Once it was bent I dropped the top truss, spun the open end down, and was able to remove it.
Overall I am very happy with how that all worked. The ends where less than an inch apart after all the cutting and bending. It was easy to clamp the ends together to get the final shape. I will be able to tack and fit everything pretty easy.
This is where I am at tonight. I was able to test fit the shape of the tank down in the pocket that the skidplate created. It fit great. I am super happy!
That is all for now. I have to make the baffles, end caps, and fuel pump mount next. Then comes lot of aluminum welding.
With EJS prep, EJS, the flatty run, and having to buy a replacement DD in there I got a few things done.
I finally got the gas tank skidplate cut and bent. It is 1/4" thick aluminum that is about 41" wide which is just to much for my press. Honestly, I had the plate laser cut with all the features I wanted and cnc bent along with shipped for less than I could get a sheet of material for locally.
The skidplate bolts to the rear bumper bracket and also has two 10mm rivet nuts in the bottom of the frame per side for weight support.
I'm still getting use to this aluminum TIG welding thing. This 1/4" stuff about maxed out my home welder. It isn't coming back apart. I am pretty sure about that.
After test fitting a few different templates for the bottom profile of the tank I decided on the final shape for the tank....
Made a print for the tank with all the bend centerline information and transferred that over to some 1/8" 5052-H32 aluminum.
Cut it out using the trusty jig saw with 14tpi Bosch blades with a touch of wax on the blade.
Bent up the main part of the tank in one go on the press brake I built a little bit ago. I was able to do all 4 bends in this design to make a complete tube with only one seam on the top front. The last bend made the ends pinch the top truss, but the material is flexible enough to allow that. Once it was bent I dropped the top truss, spun the open end down, and was able to remove it.
Overall I am very happy with how that all worked. The ends where less than an inch apart after all the cutting and bending. It was easy to clamp the ends together to get the final shape. I will be able to tack and fit everything pretty easy.
This is where I am at tonight. I was able to test fit the shape of the tank down in the pocket that the skidplate created. It fit great. I am super happy!
That is all for now. I have to make the baffles, end caps, and fuel pump mount next. Then comes lot of aluminum welding.
Just got caught up. Looks great!!
- Thread starter
- #277
Trying to get back into the habit.
Tonight I started on the part of the fuel pump mount that will mount into the fuel tank. The bungs are solid aluminum that was drilled and bottom tapped on the one side. They should be fuel tite to the inside of the tank that way. This mount will use a factory GM fuel pump sending unit. Once done this sub-assembly will be welded into the top front center of the tank.
Still lots more to do...
Tonight I started on the part of the fuel pump mount that will mount into the fuel tank. The bungs are solid aluminum that was drilled and bottom tapped on the one side. They should be fuel tite to the inside of the tank that way. This mount will use a factory GM fuel pump sending unit. Once done this sub-assembly will be welded into the top front center of the tank.
Still lots more to do...
- Thread starter
- #278
Just a little bit...
I added the rear wall to the fuel pump mount. This was kinda a pain in the rear for me. These 3 sided inside corners kicked my butt. I welded both sides of all those seams to be sure.
Now I need to tack the main tank and fit this sub-assembly into the main tank. At least there are no more inside corners! I do have to weld the baffles in the tank which is going to be a bit odd.
I'm learning a ton and expanding my skills base. That is what this project was suppose to be about!
I added the rear wall to the fuel pump mount. This was kinda a pain in the rear for me. These 3 sided inside corners kicked my butt. I welded both sides of all those seams to be sure.
Now I need to tack the main tank and fit this sub-assembly into the main tank. At least there are no more inside corners! I do have to weld the baffles in the tank which is going to be a bit odd.
I'm learning a ton and expanding my skills base. That is what this project was suppose to be about!
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
over kill
