Builds Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

[Mieser]

It was all going just perfect till....



Well poo. My tig lead/hose failed with hole. I think there might have been a small hole for a while which was causing a small black spec ( contamination ) issue. Once it finally got larger I couldn't really even weld anymore. The hole happened right where the handle ended and the protective sheath started. I have a new torch lead on the way, but it will probably be a few days....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

wow, I suspect I'll never use mine enough to wear it out like that... of course, if I do, I have the really old style which has the hose on the outside of the wire so it's easy to fix with electrical tape.

nice work on everything else

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's a bummer.

Can you get a hose with a flexible connection instead of a rigid thread-together one, something that moves the flexing point away from where the hose barb ends?

I guess I'm just thinking of this style TIG torch. Seems like it'd be easier on the hose:

 

[Mieser]

That is the kind of torch I have, I just pulled the handle down to get at the hose.

I ordered a higher quality silicone based hose lead ( that is 25 vs 12 feet long too!)

My tig machine was only like $700 new so I can't complain too much since I got 3 years out of the lead....

 

[Mieser]

I got my new TIG torch lead today....and then finished welding the fuel pump mount into the tank. Before I move onto the baffles I decide to give it another test fit. It fits nice. I am definitely using all the space I have. If my math is right, the tank should be about 25 gallons when I am done.

 

[Mieser]

One more bite...





I test fit the fuel pump sending unit in the tank, made a pattern for a baffle, cut out said baffle, and welded it into the tank. The baffle had to be shifted slightly to clear the fuel level arm, but is still about 10" inside from the edge of the tank. I will say that this style of welding inside the tank was pretty challenging for me....seemed like no room for two hands, the torch, some filler, and still having enough room to see something without having to use the force or ESP.

 

[Mieser]

I'm happy to be getting back in the groove...





Tonight I was able to cut, trim, and install the 2nd baffle in the tank. I also got the 1st ( easy side ) end cap cut, trimmed, and tack welded in place.

Lots more to do, but progress feels good.

 

[Pacer]

^^^ I'm no TIG master, but just came across these a few days ago, seems like they could have been, maybe still can be useful in this case.

Furick Cup

 

[Mieser]

Sweet cup. I have a set of pyrex normal size gas lens stuff coming....

 

[Mieser]

A big bite tonight....



I got the 2nd end cap cut, fitted, and tack welded in place. This side has a little extra cut out where the fuel filler tube will go....



I cobbled up a hand rest for doing all the long welds. This was easy to adjust for height also which came in handy for all the different positions. A few heavy boxes worked great for keeping the tank on edge while I welded the odd seam on the rear bottom of the tank taper.



Something finally clicked with the TIG welding of aluminum finally. This setup was AC, 100% argon, 15cfh, 100 amps, 17 air cooled torch, sharp 3/32nd 2% lanthinated Tungsten, #5 cup, about 3/16 stick out. I was running the pedal about 80-90% depending on how warm the entire part was getting. I am using 1/16th 5356 filler on the 1/8" 5052-H32 material.

I think the biggest improvement came from changing over to my #10 passive welding helmet. This was like taking the blinders off pretty much. It allowed me to see every detail in the puddle. It felt like I had about 3x more time to see a problem/change in the puddle before bad things started happening. The arm rest made things a lot more stable for both hands also.



Good ol' passive helmet. While the auto dark is fine for tack welding, for long welds I keep coming back to the passive.



Both ends all welded up. The only welding left is the filler neck part! It felt huge to get the ends welded on.



Shop tip. If you are going to use some masking tape to hold the aluminum panel in place, make a little tab on one end so you can remove the tape with your welding gloves on. This keeps you from having to remove a glove to remove the tape as you tack weld the panel in place.

 

[Mieser]

I have a fancy aluminum box now....



I need to build a few caps for it and stick it on a low pressure test to soap bubble all the seams. Then let it sit for a day or two and see if I see a pressure drop. After that it will be a gas tank if all goes well.

A few details....



I welded the inside of the filler neck to avoid an access problem in the outside corners.



The tank ended up just level with the top of the coil buckets like it was suppose to. I am pretty happy about that with so many custom parts. The floor of the bed will be pretty tight above the coil buckets and tank.



Just because....

Now I can move onto building the steel structure for the bed finally! After that is done I can stick the springs in it again...

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good Job!

 

[S4Cruiser]

Good Job!

Agreed - looks like you picked up Aluminum Tig really well and quick too!

 

[2fpower]

Since I followed your lead and bought the same welder, you have a link to that lead and hose setup?

 

[Mieser]

Spinning some aluminum this evening.









One down. This is the clamp ring for the GM fuel pump.

I still have to make one more that will act a shim under the fuel pump flange that will trap the o-ring seal. It will also be the right thickness for proper compression on the seal when everything snugged down.

Fun stuff.

 

[Mieser]

Since I followed your lead and bought the same welder, you have a link to that lead and hose setup?

AHP

Just make sure to get the correct one for your year machine. Seems to be a very nice setup. The extra length is nice with the 25ft version. I need a longer ground lead to match. I also bought the better pedal for my machine. That made a pretty big difference in low end arc control.

 

[Mieser]

Shiny stuff....



I finished off the parts for the fuel pump mount. There is basically a 3/16" thick ring that traps a standard 430 O-ring seal in Viton. The flange on the fuel pump in on the top of the o-ring. The bottom is the top of the fuel tank. The ring prevents extrusion to the outside. The pump unit traps it to the inside.

I need a few misc plumbing parts and then I can air test the tank. As a bonus, the little jig I used to turn the rings can be used as a block off plate for the test. I think I am going to stick a rubber tire valve in it for adding air and taking a pressure measurement. I only need like 3psi for the soap bubble test.

 

[mudgudgeon]

good to see you back into it, and making progress. I like the way you do stuff.

I recently picked up a TIG welder for the first time in twenty years (always used MIG) and found the auto darkening helmet a bit dark on the lowest darkness setting too. I picked up a tip from another mud build thread, and now have a cheap LED head torch stuck to the helmet to light up my weld area, so far it seems to be a good thing

 

[Mieser]

good to see you back into it, and making progress. I like the way you do stuff.

I recently picked up a TIG welder for the first time in twenty years (always used MIG) and found the auto darkening helmet a bit dark on the lowest darkness setting too. I picked up a tip from another mud build thread, and now have a cheap LED head torch stuck to the helmet to light up my weld area, so far it seems to be a good thing

Than you. Ejs prep always keeps me busy for a few weeks a year in the spring.

I have a light on my mig helment also. It works great for seeing into a dark corner. With the TIG, a passive helment is another big step beyond that for me. I keep going back to the passive helment for any real welding on the tig, but for tacking I still use the auto helmet.

 

[Mieser]

Time for the next thing....



The tank is done now. It went through an overnight 4psi air test process on the tank after a soap bubble test of all the seams along with the fuel pump mount. I found two small pinholes on the soap bubble test. I think it is where had stopped and started on the 1st long welds I attempted on the top front edge. Those where way enough to fix. The bigger issue was that my filler neck had a leak on the backside weld somewhere. I ended up having to weld completely around the outside also, and that was a complete pain because it was super cramped quarters.

Time for something else now...

A few misc pics.



Air test rig. Good thing I had that extra 1.5" radiator hose that didn't fit....



Turned the lathe turning plate jig into the air test cover for the fuel pump mount. I used a large hole valve stem for my air test port. That allowed me to add air and test pressure with my very low pressure tire gauge.



I bolted in the fuel pump assembly. This is a stock GM truck internally regulated assembly for a returnless engine. It also has the fuel level sender built in. It uses a factory style weatherproof wiring plug also which was pretty affordable.



I coated the inside of the fuel tank skidplate with strips of 1/4" thick closed cell medium density adhesive back foam. This should eliminate any wear between the two parts from vibration over time I hope.