Builds Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction (6 Viewers)

[Mieser]

A step forward?



I decided the next thing that needed to happen was to finish the custom section on the rear of the tub. I think it is best to go it now without the bed stuff in the way vs later. The short version is that I need to weld in the rear floor panel and rear body panels.

The long version is that I also need to finally work out the details on how I am going to fabricate the sealing and mounting system for the rear window panels. One of the original goals with this project was to have the 'top' be modular in design so I could easily remove panels when the weather was nice. An added challenge is that I want the panels that I would commonly remove, mainly the rear 'window' panels and the upper half of the doors, to be able to be stored in the vehicle without them getting in the way. I may also try a few different designs for the panels that bolt on....different materials, shapes, etc.



My basic idea for the rear 'window' panel is to have it bolt into the cage structure in the corners while having it sealed with a bulb gasket all the way around to keep the weather out and the heat inside during the winter. This is the profile for the bulb seal I will be using all the way around.

I will basically be installing a spine made of 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick flat bar around the entire opening on both sides. In order for that spine to be in the right place, I need to trim back the upper flange to allow that spine to be in the right spot. I'd like to be able to hide the spot welds for the spine under the bottom outside of the gasket where the bulb will cover them for a clean look. Then maybe run a bead of seam sealer on the inside to waterproof the corner.

Shop tip.



When trimming a flanged panel, sometimes it works best to clamp something under it to raise the flange. Then just move the clamps as you go along with the saw. I had to take a bit off the front to even up the flange to the B-pillar. When I pull the tub for final welding I will weld that seam to the tube and add another L-shaped filler to the flange on the rear of the old floor.

 

[Mieser]

opps double post....

 

[Mieser]

One more bite.



I was able to weld in the rear floor panel tonight along with finishing the trimming/prep on the passenger rear tub panel. That panel was then clamped into position. I think I need more clamps.....

I'm going to sleep on it and give it a good look tomorrow before I weld it in place.

Shop tip...



Body saws are really handy. How did I get by without one.....

 

[74fj40]

Body saws are really handy. How did I get by without one.....

My Co worker has one that takes sawzall blades. Pretty handy to have the length but not the huge sawzall.

 

[Mieser]

My Co worker has one that takes sawzall blades. Pretty handy to have the length but not the huge sawzall.

Cool. I have an small electric saw that takes full size Sawzall type blades which is super handy for the odd cut. A foot long blade really lets you get into a distant or tight area sometimes.

 

[Mieser]

Sticking stuff together with the metal glue gun....



One half the rear wall is welded into place. I used 3/16" holes through the 16 gauge panel material for plug welds with the mig welder. This seems like my favorite size hole for plugs with a mig. On 16th to 16th material the welds lay flat or even slightly negative. With the 16th over 8th the weld stands up a little more and needs to be cut down to be flush.

On that note. I have been trying to be a better metalsmith. Looking at the work of some of the others, I needed to step up my game a little bit. Being able to get that 'no-weld' or 'is that welded' sheetmetal look is a good challenge.

Some misc pics....



This shows the plug welds locations before metal prep.



Close up after metal prep.

This was done with a 2" air grinder ( note: I need a real compressor )

36 grit - 80 grit - Brown scotch - Red scotch - Green scotch.

That seems to be working pretty well. I also wend over each weld location with a body hammer a little bit to try and release any tension at the weld location and lower the material slightly.

That's all for now. Side D tomorrow. After that I think I can start forming the spine for the rear panel bulb seals. I am also going to need to make a few jigs to space things a consistent distance from the outside edge top to bottom with the 1/16 difference from the rear panel overlap.

 

[Tank5]

Great work! I like it!

 

[Mieser]

It's starting to feel like a truck....



Side D is all trimmed, fitted, and clamped into place for welding tomorrow.

A few details...



Panel gaps like this take forever! I have to keep trying to be better.



Here was one issue I had to work though. I had a bit of an oil can on the rear wall after welding it into place. Looking back I probably should have pressed in some ribs, but I intend to store the rear window panels in that area and I don't want to give up the depth.

To fix the oil can I used a cheap MAP gas torch to heat one spot at a time and force cool it with air from a nozzle on the air compressor hose. This worked very well. You could actually watch the metal move with each heat/cool cycle. I don't think it is good to do the same area over and over. I tried to start on the edge of the area and work in an inward spiral pattern.

The heat marks come off with a scotchbrite, but I thought they looked kinda neat. You end up with marks on both sides you have to deal with. This area will be behind the front bed of the wall, but I didn't it to be able to move in-out or make strange noises. I will probably stick a layer of a dynamat type material over the wall also for extra insurance against odd noises. The floor will likely get a removeable mat type covering to keep noise down.

Tomorrow I hope to get the panel welded in and cleaned up. Then it will be time to make the little spines for the bulb seals! Progress.

 

[Tank5]

Sorry if I missed it earlier in your thread but how are you bending the sheet metal to get the rounded corners of your cab?

 

[Mieser]

Sorry if I missed it earlier in your thread but how are you bending the sheet metal to get the rounded corners of your cab?

The flange on the top and bottom where run through a shrinker to form the corners. The panel needed a little extra elbow grease to get the shape I wanted by working it over a towel covered piece of pipe.

 

[Tank5]

The purpose of the towel, does it allow the metal to slide easily while you work it. I am going to try making similar bends to form the bed for my 45 project. Thanks.

 

[Mieser]

The purpose of the towel, does it allow the metal to slide easily while you work it. I am going to try making similar bends to form the bed for my 45 project. Thanks.

The towel just makes things a little more 'sticky' and quiet vs metal on metal. This was just hand forming over the approx radius I needed to coax the center of the bend a little. 90% of the shape is from shrinking the flange. There is also a top and bottom flange to help hold the shape. I don't know if that is better or worse since you have to form both at about the same rate.

There is a limit on how tight of a radius you can form like this. I was about maxed out with my cheap shrinker. As you shrink the material it becomes thicker and thicker which can max out the machine pretty easy. I did 16 gauge and would not recommend that. I would start with 22-18 gauge for this type of panel if you don't want to have to use a $1000 shrinker.

For the time/money invested in the shrinking, if I needed to do it again, I would probably bend the main panel around a tube/pipe to form the radius I wanted, then weld cut flanges on the top and bottom. Weld those from the inside and outside to allow dressing the outside visible edge to a nice radius so it looks formed. Nobody will see the inside weld likely.

I hope that helps.

 

[Tank5]

Definitely does I appreciate the tips. I don't have a shrinker so I was planning to do just what you suggested for the short flange. I am ok with the welded flange for my project.

 

[Mieser]

A bit more this weekend....



Side D welded in. Nothing new with this side. It didn't have any oil can on the rear wall which was nice.



Prior to weld cleanup.



Rear seam weld.

 

[Mieser]

Something a bit different....



Today I formed the ribs that will hold the bulb seals for upper rear panels. Overall it was pretty easy, it just took some time to find sound the right amount of round to form over....and getting the radius in the right spot. This was just 1/8 x 3/4 flat bar. It was pretty easy to bend by hand....and a little help from a rubber mallet at times.

Details Details



Close up of the bulb seal I will be using and how it fits on the rib. This is just universal stuff from the McMaster catalog. Not super cheap, but not terrible.



Trying to make two of these bends match exactly is a bit of a challenge.



Both sides all bent up. I need a little more material for the last vertical. Then a little trimming in the corners and some welding. I am going to weld on the outside so that the seal hides the weld.

 

[frijolee]

Great build! I just found this, then skimmed the whole thing. There's a great deal of functional commonality between our rigs: IE LS power, not much FJ underneath, similar tire sizes, and plenty of fab by self taught fabbies. Heck, I even have JW speaker headlights waiting to go on. I didn't see a picture but pretty sure I have the same Derale power steering cooler you mentioned.

Anyways, thanks for the ideas. A gas tank build is in my near future and I have a CAD mock-up to post shortly. Would some commentary on mine if you get a chance. Curious, did you consider the walbro multi point pickups?

BTW holler if you need bulb seal. I have several full reels of the stuff.

Joel Payne

 

[Mieser]

Great build! I just found this, then skimmed the whole thing. There's a great deal of functional commonality between our rigs: IE LS power, not much FJ underneath, similar tire sizes, and plenty of fab by self taught fabbies. Heck, I even have JW speaker headlights waiting to go on. I didn't see a picture but pretty sure I have the same Derale power steering cooler you mentioned.

Anyways, thanks for the ideas. A gas tank build is in my near future and I have a CAD mock-up to post shortly. Would some commentary on mine if you get a chance. Curious, did you consider the walbro multi point pickups?

BTW holler if you need bulb seal. I have several full reels of the stuff.

Joel Payne

Hello, Thanks for watching!

Personally, I don't like the walbro pickup system, I think they are too hard on the pump. I see a lot of failures on external pumps with people using that system. All the fittings required is also a concern for me.

I wanted a fuel pump solution that I could get at any parts house easily. The GM pump I am using is also internally regulated for a single line feed engine. This keeps everything pretty simple for plumbing and the cost of fittings. I can also use the fuel level sending unit which has some value in the cost of things. All the connections are also a nice weather proof wiring connector.

 

[cruisedeisel]

You are talented sir!

 

[SMG]

Nice. Can't wait to see this when it's done!

 

[Mieser]

I've been slacking on posting again....opps. FB and IG make it so easy.



I added a crossmember to help support the 5th body mount on the C-pillar. This crossmember will also provide some support for the battery mount, air compressor, air tank, muffler, and tailpipe ( and the driveshaft fits in that space too ). All the stuff will go under the front part of the bed. The ends of this crossmember also provide a spot for the little blocks that will be the mounts for the bed posts so this had to happen 1st.



Adding lightness sucks.



5th body mount tie in. This one uses the same hardware and bushing as the other 4 to keep the parts common.



It actually felt good to make some simple brackets again. Chipboard still makes the best template I think.



I think this is where the battery is going to go? I will build the mount to take any group 34 battery, but I have this Optima sitting around that needs a home....