Bleeding brakes

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Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Threads
15
Messages
105
Location
SoCal
I plan on doing this as a one-man job. Going to use the tubing submerged in brake fluid. Does anyone the order on which to do this? I presume the closest to the master cylinder first?
It is 3/16" ID tubing, correct?
 
Yes, the Cruiser brakes are a little confusing as where to start and end. Depending on your year and whether it’s left or right hand drive. Trace your brake lines coming off your master cylinder. If it’s like mine, both lines cross the firewall to the passenger side. The front goes to an elbow bolted to the frame then drops down a soft line to a “T” on the axle housing. The rear hits a frame mounted elbow and goes back to a soft line running to a “T” on the rear. Furthest is driver rear, followed by passenger rear. Then driver front, with passenger front being closest to the master, hence last.
On the 71 RHD frame I bought, the front had an interesting setup. Both mounted elbows were on the left. The rear went back to a single soft line going to a “T” on the axle housing. The front however split with one soft line going down to the front left, and a hard line continuing around the front of the frame to just above the axle housing on the right side where it dropped down with another soft line.
 
I've been bleeding brakes solo for many years, just make sure the master doesn't run dry.
if you position the jar in the right place you can see it by looking under the rig as you push the pedal with your hand.
that way you can see the bubbles coming out. I usually go a little extra after seeing the bubbles stop.
to me brake fluid is cheap.
 
I did what 3_puppies said and then I'd close the bleeder valve, pump the brake pedal then hold it down. A couple pieces of firewood worked well for keeping the pedal down by wedging between the seat and pedal. Then open the bleeder valve, that seemed to get the last bits of air out for me.
 
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