crushers
post ho
i will pull up the actual part number, you will need a simple lighted on off switch.
send me an email every morning till i respond ...
send me an email every morning till i respond ...
BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!
- Thread starter Shes Mad
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #222
- Thread starter
- #223
It was between water and oil, and I chose oil. No particular reason
crushers
post ho
oil is the life blood of the engine AND the turbo ...
water, well, the factory gauge gives you an IDEA of how it is.
water, well, the factory gauge gives you an IDEA of how it is.
torfab
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #226
How about this plug, in the green circle below the oil feed line. Is that a good place?
crushers
post ho
pic isn't showing on my comp, maybe send it direct
cole hersee part number 58332-21BP
24V on-off-on amber light (use just one circuit)
(tried to find the actual i used in a recent build but can't)
search and see if that design works for you. it snaps into original opening with slight massaging.
cole hersee part number 58332-21BP
24V on-off-on amber light (use just one circuit)
(tried to find the actual i used in a recent build but can't)
search and see if that design works for you. it snaps into original opening with slight massaging.
- Thread starter
- #228
I got some more parts installed on the firewall.
Since the MCyl and Clutch cyl is now relocated to the left side, the batteries can no longer be on the left side. One has to move to the right side where the brake and clutch units were. This means that the sedimenter has to relocate fron the fender apron to the fire wall, where it was on the BJ70. Brackets are totally different, so you need the 70 series brackets. The sedimenter is basically the same, the lines just come out different. Since I was using the BJ74 fuel lines, the sedimenter from the 74 had the better line arrangement. The Power steering reservoir also has to be relocated to the firewall, like the 70 series. Really bugged me, because I cleaned up the 74 reservoir, and had it zinc plated. Can't use it now.
Pics of the stock location BJ74.
Pics of the stock 70 series LHD location
Just another reason why a donor is needed. The little things will drive you crazy
Pics of the new install. PS reservoir not in yet
Since the MCyl and Clutch cyl is now relocated to the left side, the batteries can no longer be on the left side. One has to move to the right side where the brake and clutch units were. This means that the sedimenter has to relocate fron the fender apron to the fire wall, where it was on the BJ70. Brackets are totally different, so you need the 70 series brackets. The sedimenter is basically the same, the lines just come out different. Since I was using the BJ74 fuel lines, the sedimenter from the 74 had the better line arrangement. The Power steering reservoir also has to be relocated to the firewall, like the 70 series. Really bugged me, because I cleaned up the 74 reservoir, and had it zinc plated. Can't use it now.
Pics of the stock location BJ74.
Pics of the stock 70 series LHD location
Just another reason why a donor is needed. The little things will drive you crazy
Pics of the new install. PS reservoir not in yet
- Thread starter
- #229
I pulled the body back off the frame last weekend. I am going to put the engine and transmission in the frame, and then set the body back down on the frame, and get everything aligned. While off, I undercoated the underside of the body, after seam sealing anything I missed. Also sprayed fluid film in the rockers, and back side of the fenders, as well as the axles and brakes, steering arms, etc. I let the fluid film set a week, after warming the shop to 70 degrees to help it seep into all the cracks and crevices. I then power washed the frame and axles, to remove the excess fluid film.
Next will be to install the gas tank, take the exhaust manifold back off to put the pyro thermocouple in, and put the engine in the frame. Also will loosely install the inner fenders for the front. I will have to fit them in and around the flares.
Next will be to install the gas tank, take the exhaust manifold back off to put the pyro thermocouple in, and put the engine in the frame. Also will loosely install the inner fenders for the front. I will have to fit them in and around the flares.
I must say I am very impressed by your project. Well executed with no corner-cutting.
Top-notch sir.
D-
Top-notch sir.
D-
crushers
post ho
like a grown up kid with a full sized steel model kit ... eh?
see, when you were a child playing with those plastic kits that was prepping you for this day.
see, when you were a child playing with those plastic kits that was prepping you for this day.
- Thread starter
- #232
You're right Wayne!
I got the fuel tank all mounted, and the fuel lines hooked up to the filler tube. Quite a pain in the arse!
Also got the pyro thermocouple installed. Debated on where to put it, and ended up going below the flange. I put the boost in the crossover tube
Now I need to get a NPT TO BSPT to install the oil sending unit for the isspro gauges. Ordered a few extra also.....
I got the fuel tank all mounted, and the fuel lines hooked up to the filler tube. Quite a pain in the arse!
Also got the pyro thermocouple installed. Debated on where to put it, and ended up going below the flange. I put the boost in the crossover tube
Now I need to get a NPT TO BSPT to install the oil sending unit for the isspro gauges. Ordered a few extra also.....
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- Thread starter
- #233
I appreciate the compliment. Thank you
- Thread starter
- #235
Thanks Alberto. Hows the bumper coming?
I managed to get the engine/Trans/Transfer case back into the frame today. I learned that you CAN put the trans mount on backwards! The bolts are offset to the front side by about 3/4 inch. Of course I had it wrong, and had to pull it back off
I was surprised that the suspension only dropped 3/4 of an inch with the weight of the engine. Guess it will just have to settle in.
Here are the pics
Looks a little different than when it was pulled!
I managed to get the engine/Trans/Transfer case back into the frame today. I learned that you CAN put the trans mount on backwards! The bolts are offset to the front side by about 3/4 inch. Of course I had it wrong, and had to pull it back off
I was surprised that the suspension only dropped 3/4 of an inch with the weight of the engine. Guess it will just have to settle in.
Here are the pics
Looks a little different than when it was pulled!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #236
Well it is starting to look like a truck again! I got the engine in the frame, exhaust on, and then set the body on the frame. It took a little while to get the body sitting straight on the frame, as it can shift side to side more than 1/4 inch. I got it within a 16th. Close enough!
Put the exhaust shields on, fuel lines, speedo cable, battery trays, which are now on opposite sides. Does it matter which battery you run to the starter? I wouldn't think so, but I have no idea. I'm sure I am forgetting something. Not sure if I got the supply and return fuel lines correct either. Not sure how to tell on the tank. I hooked the return to the left side line on the top of the tank.
I decided not to put the driveshafts on yet, as it will just make it harder to push around, since I have to push it by myself.
Also found out the BJ70 power steering reservoir mount won't work either. Hits the turbo
Have to consider other alternatives........
Now it's time to figure out all the underhood wiring, vacuum routing, etc. The nightmare begins----just have to take it slow
Put the exhaust shields on, fuel lines, speedo cable, battery trays, which are now on opposite sides. Does it matter which battery you run to the starter? I wouldn't think so, but I have no idea. I'm sure I am forgetting something. Not sure if I got the supply and return fuel lines correct either. Not sure how to tell on the tank. I hooked the return to the left side line on the top of the tank.
I decided not to put the driveshafts on yet, as it will just make it harder to push around, since I have to push it by myself.
Also found out the BJ70 power steering reservoir mount won't work either. Hits the turbo
Have to consider other alternatives........
Now it's time to figure out all the underhood wiring, vacuum routing, etc. The nightmare begins----just have to take it slow
yes, if you're running the original 24v system, and
no, if you've converted to 12v
Those of us with stock 7*s with 13B-Ts can answer questions about the elec & vac systems, it's pretty simple and straightforward.
Lookin' good... it's a thing of beauty.
Very nice ......
- Thread starter
- #239
torfab
Supporting Vendor
The batteries have to be connected in series
Ground (- battery +) ----> (- 2nd battery +) to starter and fuse box
There's a jumper from the + of the first battery to the headlights if it's a US spec cruiser, but if you're using everything BJ74, then you don't have this jumper.
Ground (- battery +) ----> (- 2nd battery +) to starter and fuse box
There's a jumper from the + of the first battery to the headlights if it's a US spec cruiser, but if you're using everything BJ74, then you don't have this jumper.
