BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!

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here is my take on theft prevention, if someone wants the truck bad enough there is NO WAY you can stop them. you can cause them to decide it isn't worth the effort ... i.e. fuel shut off.
so, vacuum, electrical, fuel all work to frustrate. what i was told, and it makes sense, is to allow the vehicle to crank over, maybe even move down the road for a block or two, then die. the thief will get nervous and run leaving the truck behind.
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I agree. If it cranks over but won't start it's likely they will leave it.
 
Your both right. I can only keep part time thieves away, not the dedicated ones.

Good news though! Found the throttle bracket!

Now if I could just find the BJ70 throttle cable, as the BJ74 cable is real long. It works, just long. I'm sure it's around somewhere.

Started working on the wiring today. Got the blinkers rerouted, trans wires and working on the glow screen. Still have the vacuum canister and vac lines, then finish wiring. Few more parts to go, then I will do the battery cables, and put power to it to see if everything works. Need to mount the air cleaner to see where I can put a few other things that still need to be mounted

All brake lines and clutch lines are done, so I will begin working on gravity bleeding the brakes and clutch while I wire.
 
Vacuum line issues

I did most of the underhood wiring, but I am having issues with the vacuum lines. I have more lines than I have places to plug in. I looked over all the diagrams, and still have questions regarding the VSV valves.

So I need someone to help me out that has a BJ74. Maybe a number that I can call you (PM me) that I can determine where they hook up.

So here is what I need. I have 3 that I need help with.

First--the 4WD VSV. I know where the lines go to the 4WD,, where does the vac line hook to.

Second--the single VSV by the fuel sedimenter. Where does the vac line go.



third--the lines in the attached pic.



I have more lines than I have places to hook them, so I probably need to talk with someone:confused: I think I am short 1 or 2
 
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This might answer some of the questions
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-...ere-do-these-vacuum-lines-go.html#post8532383

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...2899-13bt-vacuum-system-diagram-shut-off.html
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mount the shut-off VSV #17650 on the firewall, not on the engine in the original position. It commonly fails in the engine block position... it gets hot and wet, but not in a good way.
 
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Are the boost sensors to control the lights on the dash the ones mounted in the Apron.
 
Well I think I got all the vacuum lines figured out. I just had a couple I had labeled wrong, and going back to my dis-assembly pictures, I figured it out.

I also finished the underhood wiring. I ended up mounting the regulator on the left battery box, and the glow screen relays above the washer bottle. The 4WD VSV's ended up by the clutch cylinder. Now I have to get the battery cables made to finish the electrical.

Then, get the AC lines in, mount the air cleaner, figure out where there is space left for the Power steering reservoir, radiator, condenser, shroud, Bleed brakes and clutch, other misc stuff. Then underhood should be close to done. The rest should be all downhill. I might be firing it off by Christmas!







 
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So I was working on the battery cables, while still thinking about how And where I am going to mount the power steering reservoir. It looks like I could mount it behind the left headlight. There seems to be some room there.

BUT---I also happen to have an FJ60 power steering pump laying around that has the reservoir mounted on top of the pump. Just looking at it, it appears i can take the fJ60 reservoir off the pump, and it will mount on top of the BJ74 pump. If I have the clearance for the hood, I think I might have solved the problem. I think it will fit on the pump, looks like all the bolt holes are in the right places.

I must have A-D-D. Start working on battery cables, end up distracted by the power steering pump
 
Beautiful engine bay, like an aircraft engine. The plating on the parts really shows it off.

I suggest that the fuel sedimenter be located much further from the turbo. On the stock 13B-T there are heat shields and a 5" air gap between the turbo and anything plastic and more than a foot to the sedimenter mounted on the fender wall.
 
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you don't have the clearence to mount the res on top of the pump.
i have seen them on the firewall, normal
i have seen them on the RH fender about half way.
as long as the lid is higher than the pump you should be fine.
 
i did a 1" body lift on the "work" BJ70 and i could use the top mount ...
at this point in your build that wouldn't make any sense.
 
John Galt said:
The jumper from battery 1 negative to battery 2 positive should be at least double ought '00' gauge with the distance between the batteries in your case.
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OK--Torfab said:

Originally Posted by torfab
The batteries have to be connected in series

Ground (- battery +) ----> (- 2nd battery +) to starter and fuse box

Now you are saying run 00 from Battery 1 negative to Battery 2 Positive

So I am confused again
 
Well my worse fear has come true. Electrical problem:mad::mad::mad:

I ran the batteries like Torfab said. All with '00' cable

Transfer case ground to body
Frame ground to engine
Battery 1 negative to frame ground,
Battery 1 positive to Battery 2 negative.
Battery 2 positive to the starter.

When I touched the starter cable to Battery2 positive BAM!!! BIG SPARK:crybaby::crybaby::crybaby::bang::bang::bang:

I assume I have something in the wiring harness grounded that should not be grounded. That is where I will have to look first

Going to be a LONG winter----------:censor:!
 
pull all the fuses
try attaching the 24V positive
if no spark then start installing the fuses again one at a time till one blows
this will greatly reduce the searching time.
if you still have spark when attaching the 24V cable then you know it has nothing to do with the fused system.
 
torfab said:
The fusible link should have blown if it was a harness problem. If it was simply the starter that was hooked up then there might be a simple solution. Call me at the shop on Monday and I'm happy to walk you through some troubleshooting ideas 206 659 8677
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Thanks. Very much appreciated! I have to find the fusible link also

crushers said:
pull all the fuses
try attaching the 24V positive
if no spark then start installing the fuses again one at a time till one blows
this will greatly reduce the searching time.
if you still have spark when attaching the 24V cable then you know it has nothing to do with the fused system.
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Good point--will try that today.
 
Well first I checked every fuse--none blown :cheers:

Then I checked the terminal on the starter where the battery was connected. There was continuity to ground:bang:

So I pulled the starter, which is no easy task. That is where I found operator error. I had both the starter motor wire and the battery cable to the same terminal, the copper one on the right.



Nothing hooked to the silver terminal on the left.

so I ASSUME:

1) the starter motor wire is to be hooked to the silver terminal on the left (which has continuity to ground)

2) The positive battery cable should be hooked to the copper terminal on the right (which has NO continuity to ground)

3) The center is the trigger wire (which has continuity to ground)

Please verify my original mistake, and the correct way as listed.

Thanks!!!
 
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