BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!

[Oldtoy74]

Lookin good mate, it's going to be a beauty once done, hats off to you

 

[crushers]

1/16" out?
i expected better brother ... your slipping



















just kidding, that is better than factory.

if you converted to 12V then shoot me a email.
cheers

 

[Shes Mad]

The batteries have to be connected in series

Ground (- battery +) ----> (- 2nd battery +) to starter and fuse box

There's a jumper from the + of the first battery to the headlights if it's a US spec cruiser, but if you're using everything BJ74, then you don't have this jumper.

Thanks.

First Battery to ground. Do I need to ground the engine to the frame? I don't remember taking an engine ground off.

 

[crushers]

best is engine near starter to frame, same spot on frame to battery.

 

[torfab]

I typically run battery ground directly to the engine, because the starter is the one thing that needs a solid ground more than anything else. Then as Crusher said, ground strap from engine to frame by the starter, and one at the rear of the T-case to the body. The ground on the battery should also have an ~8 gauge wire from ground to body.

Feel free to email or call, and I can send you some diagrams

 

[Shes Mad]

Thanks. I'll do that with the battery grounds.

Now I am having trouble locating the *^%$ bracket for the throttle cable on the engine.

Frustrating

 

[John Galt]

The jumper from battery 1 negative to battery 2 positive should be at least double ought '00' gauge with the distance between the batteries in your case.

 

[Shes Mad]

The jumper from battery 1 negative to battery 2 positive should be at least double ought '00' gauge with the distance between the batteries in your case.

Just that one, or should all the cables be 00. I'm making all new anyway

 

[crushers]

if you look at the 70 build, i ran double 00 for the main grounds and for the starter feed.
also, use antiOx on all external connections as preventive maintenance, it also works as anti seize.

 

[Shes Mad]

Now I am having trouble locating the *^%$ bracket for the throttle cable on the engine.

Frustrating

Anybody have the bracket for the throttle cable hold on the engine for a 13 B-T

Have no idea where I put it

 

[crushers]

78184B BRACKET, ACCELERATOR CONTROL CABLE
78184-90K01 (11/1984 - 07/1986) 1 $20.76
78184-90K03 (08/1986 - 12/1989) 1 $28.07
new is cheap, try Akella4X4

 

[John Galt]

Just that one, or should all the cables be 00. I'm making all new anyway

All the battery and starter cables.

 

[Shes Mad]

78184B BRACKET, ACCELERATOR CONTROL CABLE
78184-90K01 (11/1984 - 07/1986) 1 $20.76
78184-90K03 (08/1986 - 12/1989) 1 $28.07
new is cheap, try Akella4X4

Will do. Thanks

 

[Shes Mad]

All the battery and starter cables.

Will do. I'll probably throw a cutoff in there also. I assume it doesn't matter for 12V or 24V as it is just a switch. Any recommendations on AMPS for the switch.

 

[John Galt]

Starter motors generally draw between 60-150 amps, not sure about the 13B-T one. That would take one heck of a big switch. I use marine starter batteries; they have wing nut connections as well as battery posts. The jumper between the bateries connects to the wing nut connections, one of those is the 'disconnect'.

What would be the purpose of the cut-off that would require a switch?

 

[crushers]

is this an anti-start or in case of starter runaway?
if anti-start then a little 10 A relay will be all you need, 24V of course.
cheap and easy to wire in.

 

[John Galt]

If you want to prevent starting, there are easier ways to do it with the vacuum system. The starter relay is easy to bypass, and most people know how, very few understand the vac system. PM if you're interested, I don't post that info on a public forum.

 

[Shes Mad]

If you want to prevent starting, there are easier ways to do it with the vacuum system. The starter relay is easy to bypass, and most people know how, very few understand the vac system. PM if you're interested, I don't post that info on a public forum.

It is really to turn off the batteries when not in use, but I may just put a toggle in. I installed a clutch safety switch and a relay to bypass the starter...I may just put a hidden toggle in that line

 

[Shes Mad]

78184B BRACKET, ACCELERATOR CONTROL CABLE
78184-90K01 (11/1984 - 07/1986) 1 $20.76
78184-90K03 (08/1986 - 12/1989) 1 $28.07
new is cheap, try Akella4X4

That's not the one---the one on the engine.

I KNOW I have it. Here is a pic on the engine



AND it is in the 3:00 position in this photo of parts I had plated. (I was almost going to blame the plater for losing it.)



Just going to keep looking.......

 

[crushers]

78186 SUPPORT, ACCELERATOR CONTROL CABLE, NO.1
78186-90K03 1 $44.87
my bad, i could have sworn that was the one i clicked on and copied ... good thing you looked into it.

crap

here is my take on theft prevention, if someone wants the truck bad enough there is NO WAY you can stop them. you can cause them to decide it isn't worth the effort ... i.e. fuel shut off.
so, vacuum, electrical, fuel all work to frustrate. what i was told, and it makes sense, is to allow the vehicle to crank over, maybe even move down the road for a block or two, then die. the thief will get nervous and run leaving the truck behind.

you can make it difficult but if someone wants it bad, a stolen tow truck and your truck is gone.

why? other than a joy ride, it is too noticable, even in Canada to try and steal to license for the road. even for parts, the market is so small that if they tried to sell it for parts one of us would see the ad.

just my take, carry on.