BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!

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I had the frp's on my first middy, colour coded with FRP roof, and old school alloys looked great, just started to scout around for factory flares for my latest toy, and discovered the price, looking around 4-600 AUD each, Looks like the fRP flares win again,
 
Wiring Question

Now I am to the point of thinking about wiring.

I thought about extending all the wires under the dash for the new LHD. I know I need to move the fuse box, which is like moving an ECU. And a lot of wires. And then extending everything else.

So I was thinking, why not just flip the harness 180 degrees? Everything under the dash would relocate to its new LHD spot, door electronics (windows, locks) would relocate. I would have to extend and cross the rear harnesses, and have to extend wiring under the hood.

This may not be any less splicing than under dash, but my thought is that most everything that needs extending/splicing would be out in the open instead of stuffed up under the dash. This will also facilitate putting the dash together, as I would only be able to do part of it, as I would want the wiring accessible to troubleshoot. If I don't splice anything under dash, I'm not that worried about it.


Anybody have thoughts on this?
 
that was what i thought would make the most sense. the engine side you will need to extend ... probably but you could do a nice clean job there and a lot fewer wires, no?
 
I would use the 12 volt bj70 harness in the dash and then join it with the rear half of the bj74 harness. I'm not sure if that's an option, but it seems like it would yield a cleaner result with less connections.
 
I used a 12 volt lhd harness.

I reused the stock rear harness. Plugged right in.
But I don't have those fancy electric windows. And I abandoned the electric mirrors.
 
crushers said:
that was what i thought would make the most sense. the engine side you will need to extend ... probably but you could do a nice clean job there and a lot fewer wires, no?
Click to expand...

That was what I was thinking
 
torfab said:
I would use the 12 volt bj70 harness in the dash and then join it with the rear half of the bj74 harness. I'm not sure if that's an option, but it seems like it would yield a cleaner result with less connections.
Click to expand...

I'm staying 24V and keeping AC, power windows, locks and mirrors, so using a BJ70 harness doesn't pose an option
 
AC

I have a 88510-60440 AC condenser that came with the 12V BJ70 donor. There are wires to it, so do I need to make any changes because of 24V.
 
I bought the big painless wiring harness for land cruiser. It proved to be more of a pain I think than help. Used the painless for under dash and engine compartment, then tied it in to the rear harness and all the power windows/ locks and sun roof. Still haven't gotten to the point to see if it all works yet. Seems had problems mainly with making the head lights work :-(
 
Kind of a rainy today, so I decided to put the sound deadener in. It is really a time consuming job! I spent a lot of time making it look nice in the front, and then I thought "Good Lord! It's only sound deadener! Just put it down!" Then it went a lot faster. The roller I got with it broke in the first 15 minutes, but the wooden handle end came in very handy. It took just a little more than 1 roll, and I wasted very little. One roll just might make it on a BJ70, being a little shorter. That is how close it was! However, I am going to do doors and side panels also, so I needed the second roll anyway.

Note to self--don't push the seams down with your finger. Got a nice deep cut on my finger on the foil edges.

Wiring is next.

 
So far, flipping the wiring harness appears to be the way to go. Everything fell nicely into place. I used the BJ70 firewall mats, as they were in real nice shape, and of course it fit nice, since it was going on the BJ70 firewall. :) Fuse box, cluster wires, heater and AC wires all good. The clips on the harness that fasten into the firewall were all where they were supposed to be. Almost makes me wonder if the under dash were the same, and they changed just the underhood .

Cell phone pic. so it isn't the best, but you get the idea

 
I got all the heater and AC in, and the wires were all where they needed to be. Working on the decals now.


I am looking for relays to operate lights, and a clutch starter safety switch

I found this one from Hella


http://hellahd.com/index.php/default...ics-product-1/

I want to run some lights, and I want to integrate a safety switch for the starter.

I could plug into the brake light switch, and use a relay to switch the starter wire, ie I would have to step on the brake to start the vehicle.

So I was able to use the BJ70 brake switch. It was 10MM, so I removed the 8MM pedal stop bolt, and drilled and tapped it for 10MM for the switch. Since it will engage the starter at about 1/4 inch of pedal pressure, long before the clutch would disengage, you could use the starter to move if you had to. But it will be a nice reminder to push in the clutch to start

Pics tomorrow
 
So as I am putting in clutch and brake boosters, I am wondering where other 24V LHD 70 series put their batteries. I don't think that 2 batteries are going to fit on the left side anymore.

Anybody have pics?
 
crushers said:
the Canadian 70 series has them on each side of the rad similar to the diesel 40s ...
Click to expand...

Thanks!

So I suppose I am going to need a battery mount for the right hand side, toward the firewall for the other battery?
 
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