BJ73 FRP windows

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The part Cruiserparts wants to sell to replace the NLA weatherstrip (62793-90K00 RH, 62794-90K00 LH) is 62793-60010.

The 62793-60010 weatherstrip is the successor for 1993-1999 BJ73s with FRP top. Megazip says it's 55cm long. Why is it so short?? Here's a diagram which checks out based on the 55cm description:

1729791851762.png


To cover the original length on pre 93 FRP tops you'd need 4 per window, 8 total at $35 a piece = $280 before shipping for a non-OEM solution. No thanks! I'm putting that kind of cash towards new sash frames from UAE.

Anyone have a testament of using caulk? Pics? Other substitutes?
 
Last edited:
I tried to order from cruiserparts once for this and they sent me some incorrect garbage and almost refused to take it back even though the mistake was clearly theirs. IMO You should consider elsewhere.
 
Hello,

The part number change indicates a design supersession. FRP top's windows changed very little, if at all, during the production run. The newer part usually fits without issues.

Regarding the length, this weatherstrip fits within the window and a center weatherstrip. This is why it has this shape and length.

Even the newer part is getting hard to source. I would try using Toyota or a parts supplier.

Regarding the caulk, a good windshield sealant will work. You need a clean, de-greased surface: old sealant may be hard to remove. Make sure you apply an even bead. Then make sure you have at least two clips per corner, plus at least another one for the long sections.





Juan
 
JuanJ said:
Regarding the length, this weatherstrip fits within the window and a center weatherstrip. This is why it has this shape and length.
Click to expand...

I still don't understand why the superseding part is so much shorter... 55cm is about 1/4 of the full length needed. Parts suppliers have it priced at $20 - still a lot when you need 8 of them. I will likely go the caulk/sealant route.
 
From the diagrams, it looks like that bit is part of a different system of installing the window frame.
Older BJ diagram is below. Maybe this newer system traps less water/rust?
1729879366985.png
 
Yes, you are right.
Here is the other diagram that is not labelled HT.
Is your diagram like this but cropped more?
1729880048859.png
 
jblueridge said:
Yes, you are right.
Here is the other diagram that is not labelled HT.
Is your diagram like this but cropped more?
View attachment 3757840
Click to expand...

Mine is cropped a bit more and is for model years 93 and newer. It shows how the "62761A" weatherstrip above is superseded by a weatherstrip which is only about 1/4 of the old length. This is the mystery. Here it is again to compare:

1729880664636.png
 
The parts catalog calls it a "weatherstrip" and the repair manual calls it a "frame spacer". The latter term is more accurate. The frame is actually sealed to the top with butyl tape (orignal # 08850-00065, "butyl tape set"). I don't think the "spacer" is all that critical. I think it's more of a way to fill the void between the frame and the top and to help with positioning the frame in the opening in the top. I'd fill the space with the Butyl tape. The size of the spacer/weatherstrip was likely changed since it was probably bigger than it needed to be.

​

 
Yup. A different installation system.
 
Anyone have experience using 3M Windo-Weld ribbon for the butyl tape component?:

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40068348/

I can't decide between 8mm (5/16") or 9.5mm (3/8") thickness options. Manual states 9mm. Any recommendations? I'm worried that the 9.5mm would be too much to establish the right pinch weld size/clearance.
 
Hello,

It is better to keep it simple.

A good automotive grade windshield sealant will do the job.

Make sure you apply a good bead. Take your time. Then put the window in.

Once the bead is ready, put two clamps on every corner, two in the upper middle part and two in the lower middle part. Let it cure.

Once it is cured, check for water tightness. Re-apply if necessary.





Juan

EDIT: Sealant type corrected.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

thebill
Fivres FRP Top Sliding Windows Rattling
Replies
7
Views
1K
jblueridge
J
uzj100
FRP top mod
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
FJBen
FJBen
H
Any input how to remove the rear window frame and rubber from FRP
Replies
6
Views
739
LDRF
LDRF
76FJ40
FRP Headliner Replacement
Replies
6
Views
1K
DetectiveFat
DetectiveFat

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom