x2, I was reading through this thread today. I am going to be tackling this soon as well and would love to know if anyone has a workaround for the NLA parts.
BJ73 FRP windows
- Thread starter Rbtsas
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I haven’t. I have acquired everything necessary to do the job, though. I need to make some repairs to my FRP first and get it repainted before I do the windows. Hoping to get it done over this summer.
@Irish11 everything is available except for that foam/rubber piece that I have the two red arrows pointing to in my last post. Most people seem to be using caulk, or nothing at all. My plan is to have a good look at exactly what it is, and find a seal or weatherstrip that’s as close as possible.
I copied Kurt's hatchet job version of this. I took at look at everything and while it's the "right" way to do it, functionally it won't do much and it looks like a real bear of an install with potential broken stuff that isn't made anymore.
My channels weren't too rusty. I wire wheeled the worst of them and hosed them down with rust convertert during the install. It's a bit of a bitch getting everything shaped right but it's in. I used black silicone to marry the two halves, you won't notice it until you look for it. I'm going to spend a little time caulking it to make it look nice and send it. My top is due for a refinish anyway.
Definitely quiets the wind noise!
My channels weren't too rusty. I wire wheeled the worst of them and hosed them down with rust convertert during the install. It's a bit of a bitch getting everything shaped right but it's in. I used black silicone to marry the two halves, you won't notice it until you look for it. I'm going to spend a little time caulking it to make it look nice and send it. My top is due for a refinish anyway.
Definitely quiets the wind noise!
Nice, did you remove the frame to do all this? If so, what was your solution for in between the frame and the fiberglass?
The believe the point of the “Kurt” method is to change the weatherstrip without removing the frame or glass. It’s butyl caulk/tape that goes there. If you remove your pinch weld on the inside you’ll be able to see it there.
Yeah, the whole point was to not remove the frame. Too much potential for carnage there considering everything in there is still in decent shape. There's some sort of tape in there that has pretty much rotted away, and little rubber shims that hold things in place. For my next trick I'm going to spend some time with some silicone to fill the gap around the frame and making it look nice. I honestly see no reason not to do it this way having owned a lot of s***ty old trucks
Sometimes the path of least resistance is the way to go.
You can find the rubbers on cruiserparts.net there the genuine Toyota ones. Just re did mine today. Set aside a Good 3 hours for both windows
The whole strip comes creased to the frame I installed it today
Here’s how it looks with the frame off, the previous owner had it caulked on very poorly so was able to cut around the frame and pry it out with a flat head screwdriver and some elbow grease. Taking the frame out is the only way to get the windows off to replace the weather stripping between the frame and windows. Finally no more leaking
Can you provide some more pictures of how you did the weatherstrip and runners in the frame?
I still don't understand where this NLA 6279390K00 weatherstripping is supposed to go. The manual has these detail pictures (page BO-65) , where there is the runner visible, as well as the butyl to glue the frame to the FRP top, but no further weatherstripping.
On top of the page a whole assembly kit for the butyl is mentioned (08850-00065), which, on the other hand, I nowhere ever found in any of the usual parts catalogs.
** Maybe this 6279390K00 has been SUPERSEDED by this butyl ???
The weatherstripping goes in between the frame, to replace it you will need to take the frame off the FRP top that’s the only way to change the weatherstripping because once the frame is off you can take windows off, replace the weather stripping then put windows beck on. I used black all weather caulk to then put them back on. don’t have picks of the frame off
What FSM is this in? Mine does not depict this.
As I understand it, the NLA weatherstrip is squeezed between the truck roof and the window frame as depicted by the shaded area being squeezed by the pliers and is a butyl strip.
The pic I posted is part of page BO-65 of
"Land Cruiser Heavy Duty Repair Manual -Chassis -Body Production Dates 10/84 thru 1/90 USA & Canada Pub.No 36262E"
That's what I was suspecting... Butyl strip is easy to get. Wouldn't be any worries.
However, SeanBJ74 's comment says you need to take the glass (windows) out of the frame in order to change what he calls weatherstripping.
That would mean the weatherstripping is somewhere within the frame / around the glass. Which my manuals pics don't show or mention.
@SeanBJ74 : Are we both talking the same thing? Or are you rather referring to the runners where the glass slides in? That rubber piece is also depicted in my manuals pic.
(Original part no of the runners e.g. for RH 6275590K01, now superseded by 6275560040 and readily available)
Sorry for asking again, but taking it apart without a real understanding how to get it together again would be really PITA.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
On mine, there was rubber that fit into the metal frame and the glass was held in and sealed.
Also, there was a rubber that fit into the opening or hole in the FRP top and the frame + windows went into that.
Also, there was a rubber that fit into the opening or hole in the FRP top and the frame + windows went into that.
I will need t look back. Mine must be an older version.
Correct. There is a butyl strip between the frame and the top and then there is the rubber on the inside that the windows run on.
The weather strip (channel) is available and left and right. The strip that was used to go between the top and frame is not available and was a soft rubber gasket with "stickum" on it I think. Someone early on in this thread scored one from Cruiserparts. I tried to get one too to see what it looked like and they sent me a completely wrong part with the Toyota part sticker mostly ripped off and then almost refused to take it back.
I have the window channel at the house and can check the numbers but I thought they were posted in the thread.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Thank You guys.
To me it's clear now.
Replacement parts needed are the runners / slide channel (RH 62755-90K01 now 62755-60040, LH 62756-90K01 now 62756-60040) and 2x Butyl sticky tape 9mm dia. x 2500mm to glue the frame back to the FRP hardtop.
Some sealant may also help.
I'll get the parts and then need to find some time to do it.
Thanks again.
Ralf
To me it's clear now.
Replacement parts needed are the runners / slide channel (RH 62755-90K01 now 62755-60040, LH 62756-90K01 now 62756-60040) and 2x Butyl sticky tape 9mm dia. x 2500mm to glue the frame back to the FRP hardtop.
Some sealant may also help.
I'll get the parts and then need to find some time to do it.
Thanks again.
Ralf
I have been delaying my replacement as I nees to get the frames blasted and powder coated. I would reccomend that to anyone going through the process.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Blasting revealed rot in mine along the bottoms.
I did my best to weld in new metal but it is very tight in those channels and I ended by using high-temp Lab Metal to smooth things out.
What I should have done was sourced used frames and cut them up for patches.
I did my best to weld in new metal but it is very tight in those channels and I ended by using high-temp Lab Metal to smooth things out.
What I should have done was sourced used frames and cut them up for patches.
Have you had good luck with the Lab-metal products?
