BJ42 refurbisment (7 Viewers)

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thanks to Lowebrau i found out years ago that you can do a PS install on a 40 using a 70 series box, change the upper arms, relay and drag links and done. pricey but a bolt on ... kinda

Wayne:

Can you elaborate on this?

That is a 70 series steering box? I assume early 70 series (leaf sprung, not coil, right?), and then is that a different pitman arm?

Long and short of why I'm asking: is that 70 series box in the same location in relation to the axle as it is on a 70 series? And, is there a difference between the early and late 70 series steering gearbox placement?

Dan
 
my bad
it is 60 series box
70 series parts
original post edited to show correction
sorry for the confusion.
 
Last edited:
my bad
it is 60 series box
70 series parts
sorry for the confusion.

Gotcha.

Was going to say, it looks an awful lot like the 60 series conversions...

Very good. Carry on then.

Dan
 
time to move to the passenger side
fitting the speaker was a LOT tighter than the drivers side ... and the drivers side was tight
so first up make a mount, nutzert it in place and install speaker

the time to rebuild the heating system, first up, add foam to seal the air flow so it actually gets to the heater core ...

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same with the other end of the feeder tube, clean and insert foam
the feeder tube had to be moved over 3/4" to clear the speaker so mods to the mounts needed to be created and instead of just into the stripped out holes we inserted more nutzerts.
after removing the hoses from the heater core we could see how the inlets were crushed and distorted
getting ready for the tear down and clean up of the heater.

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the actual core looked good to the naked eye so we pressure tested to 20 PSI for any leaks. nice and solid.
the tear down showed some signs of rust ... the bottom flap wasn't closing properly so when the controller was pushed for defrost, most of the air was heading out the bottom instead of the top. must have been fun to keep the windshield clear in the COLD winter days.

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missed taking pics of the GB parts, got ride of all the rust and painted, hung to dry.
upon reassembly, all moving parts were hit with AntiOx which also seems to work well as a lubricant.
inside the housing looks like new again ... maybe good for another 30 years??

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assembled ready for tweaking
the bottom flap as it was when it arrived in the "closed" position.
the bottom flap as it is supposed to be
and once again nutzerts installed instead of bolt and nut.

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the passenger side is starting to look more like a cruiser
the driver side turned out to be a bit of a pain.
the foot throttle needed a rubber dampener to prevent the hand throttle from binding and having the end come off. works fine now.

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the rear heater cover was cleaned and painted black to match the rest of the truck interior.

this oil pan has been sitting under the engine for the last few months, we removed it to add the silicone and bolt it up properly when we found this ... mess.
this had oozed out of the block while it was sitting. the pan was dry and clean when it was set on with 2 bolts to keep any dust out of the bottom of the motor.
it was good that we had to drop it ... otherwise we would never have seen this.

this engine has not seen regular oil changes in quite a while. disgusting.

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Alberto
to answer your question about the fan. it is from a BJ60. the blades are just under an inch longer so it won't work with the original fan shroud.
this fan shroud was rotted as well the rad was moved over an inch so a new fan shroud will be need to be made sometime in the future IF the owner has any issues. Most 3B engines run on the cool side so around town he shouldn't need a shroud. on the highway there is ample air flow but time will tell.

cheers
 
as with most things, modify one and it affects another.
i had to relocate the rad overflow bottle.
best location i could find was in front of the 12V battery, there was dead space, close to the rad on the side of the spigot
should look almost factory when finished

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the previous owner never bothered with the rear side markers.
we wanted them on.
to install into a fiberglass tub you go under the inner wheel well instead of above like factory. the reason is because in the factory you don't have the inner wall the fiberglass tub has. this means the light sits an inch or so lower.
you can see how thick the fiberglass tub is ... literally bullet proof.
i like the looks of the factory lights installed, and it makes the truck legal again.

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the drivers side batter stand had to be modified extensively to clear the steering link and the steering box.
i ended up too caught up in the build to take the pics i should have.
tight, very tight fit.

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the seats installed
once again the fiberglass tub made for an interesting install. the main mount that holds the body on also holds the seats and seat belts in place.
the mount also has welded nuts to receive the bolts, sadly we had to thread chase which becomes a challenge when the fuel tank is mounted under.
the new seat mounts would not allow the length of bolts needed so we had to install studs with locktight and then the nuts were a quarter turn in a very uncomfortable position to bolt in
but
they ended up looking nice.
the seats get covered with plastic till the owner takes possession. i have been told these seats mark easy.

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some PC returned
fender supports
exhaust skid plate
snorkel

i like the looks of black over the SS but personal choice. others might disagree. there is no right answer.

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we installed a HJ60 vacuum canister
had to add a 45 degree fitting to angle the inlet smoother
SS line across the firewall
that is the unit tucked way down under all those wires

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first is the small fender support for the 24V battery stand
the the main body of the stand is bolted on
this shows how tight the fit is on the LH side ... and we still have the lower rad hose to fit in here :eek:
top view

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