starting on the wiring for the inverter and the amp
nutzerts into the floor for clean mounting
the 24V feed comes from the front, inside the frame, across the spreader and up through the floor.
all wiring is tagged and clear heat shrinked for protection
tight under the rear seat but protective boots over the wiring
clean and tidy and well mounted for protection.
all the external wiring had water proof connectors, antiOx, shrink wrap, twisted and covered for protection from the elements.
all the internal wiring had the antiOx and covered for protection
with the added color match dab of paint to match the wire color in case the switch had to be removed. this will make it easier for the owner to trace the wiring
turbo installed
SS cross over
cleaning the threads on the front diff
prepping for the PS install
common on the 3B is the snapped thermostat housing bolts
the thermostat housing was torn down, glass beaded, painted, new gasket and thermostat installed, new bolts and installed
the replacement 70 series rods, thanks to Lowebrau i found out years ago that you can do a PS install on a 40 using a 60 series box coupled with 70 series parts, change the upper arms, relay and drag links and done. pricey but a bolt on ... kinda.
there was a lot of glass beading and painting being done. in most cases this was to see if any hidden damage under the old paint. in some cases it was for aesthetics.
old part
glass beaded
painted
looks like new, giving a fresh start again.
the metal retainers for the dust seal on the back of the knuckle were rusted through and useless.
new from Toyota kit.
the difference in size of the arms from 1981 40 series to 1987 70 series
refurb'd the filter housing
filled the filter with seafoam, this stuff actually does more than smell acceptable. it really cleans.
assembling the front diff
i made up a tool years ago to help seat the grease in the wheel bearings for torquing. bring up the rpms each way, torque done.
the hubs worked fine after cleaning but looked like crap, a GB and paint and they look acceptable again.
a number of flaws in the body work
the crack in the fiberglass is normal but would have been nice to be filled, it is a decorative panel only and it seems to flex with the door.
a lot of the bolts were not tightened down and a couple were actually stripped.
most of the brake lines were "questionable" so we made new using high nickel steel line and then shrink wrapped the lines to keep the salt and chemicals off.
the oil feed line to the turbo secured
the oil pressure with factory sender ready for install
the factory gauges are a suggestion of what is really happening, this way he can keep an eye on what is actually happening.
prepping for PS install
mark and cut the fiberglass fender
notch the shock tower to clear the box input
clamp the box in place and mark the holes
make up a custom spacer to keep the frame from collapsing when torquing the box into place
the PS pump and the fan as a clearance issue
since the water pump was questionable,it was replaced.
the "power bar" wasn't powerful enough to stand up to removing the crank bolt.
tap the harmonic balancer to make sure no stripping happens during removal.
replacement balancer GB and painted ready to go on.
now we ran into an interesting issue.
seems the older 3B uses a shorter retaining crank bolt from the later versions.
I did not know that, nor did a number of vendors that i contacted.
I ended up getting one from a 89 3BII that worked fine.
