BJ42 refurbisment

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crank pulley installed
tensioner installed with upper support bracket
water pump and thermostat housing installed
PS pump installed

moving along
the parts for the connecting link between the steering column and the steering box. all factory parts
test fitting the steering bushing into the steering column housing
steering column before and after GB and paint ...

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bending up the SS PS lines to replace the original that do not fit this application.

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the rad support has to be notched to clear the new steering box AND moved over an inch.
the replacement fan, 2 reasons, the replacement water pump made the original fan pulley unusable and the original fan was defective.
setting the 12V battery stand in place temp to test for clearances

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getting the connecting link finished up
machine the end and weld (piece into the steering column)
GB and paint
measuring for final cut ...

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machine an alighment pin
insert and weld
GB and paint

ready to be installed

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here is the clearance issue with the steering box and rad support
mark for future needs
notch rad itself to clear
add support to rad cradle
notch rad cradle
now there is clearance as needed

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connecting link temp installed
steering column reassembled
PS couplings GB and painted ready for use

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power steering lines finished and installed
tight clearance between rad and 12V battery stand.

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next up is modifying the air box to fit the turbo and the snorkel ...
ugly but solid
drill out the old and install a "patch" using liquid metal
its a start

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this is the original air box, full of silicone to patch the rust holes.
i took the original mount and drilled it off, GB ready to be attached to the replacement air box
marked for location

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aligning for the snorkel inlet
i wanted the air to flow around the box instead of straight in, this SHOULD allow for the dust to be spread around the bottom instead of hitting the filter in the same location all the time
also the side fender skirt on the 40 is barely big enough for the 3 3/8" hole needed so being the right height up is important.
siding the 3" inlet into the box for scribing.

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drilling the skirt, for me, this is stressful. tight fit and one little screw up and ... :frown:

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the rad support has to be notched to clear the new steering box AND moved over an inch.
the replacement fan, 2 reasons, the replacement water pump made the original fan pulley unusable and the original fan was defective.
setting the 12V battery stand in place temp to test for clearances

Hey Wayne,

What fan did you end up using?

Is that a stock 3B fan?

Great work.
 
from outside it looks like a simple task
the lid from a turbo version
the outlet will need to be shortened for decent access to the turbo via a silicone elbow
working on the snorkel
the mounts are nutzerted into the body

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exhaust work
with the post 79 diesel cruisers the fuel tank goes clear across from frame rail to frame rail, normally the exhaust exits the frame on the outside and travels back where it goes over the frame again behind the tank. sadly this was not an option for this build since the side bars were installed by a previous shop not allowing for the larger exhaust.
it was VERY tight but i was able to get the exhaust through beside the t/case.
the 6" flex should allow the engine to vibrate as it does without causing rattles in the exhaust piping
it was painted with high heat silver to help the aluminized exhaust last longer ... in theory anyway.

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installed
the tip is SS since it will be recieving the brunt of the stones coming off the tires.
the tip was also centered on the tire so the flow of air from the tires will, or at least should, keep the fumes from flooding into the passenger compartment when the soft top is on.
HD hangers were used through out the system. very solid.

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the rest of the system installed
that bend is the only part of the exhaust that is below the frame rails.
as skid plate is being made up to protect it.

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the skid plate bent and tested ...
that should protect that section of exhaust well.

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