BJ42 going in half - project

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Frame painted too:
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Sprayed Noxudol 3101 noise killer stuff to the tub:
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White is still wet.
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Test fitted the Teseven 1/2 tub:
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Almost, few millimeters too long:
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Rear tub mounting redone, this is how it was:
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Cut the edge off and made new:
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As you can see I am bolting the 1/2 tub with M6 bolts. So it is removable in the future if needed.
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Now it fits ok:
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Axles and other stuff is blasted too:
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A lot of painting is coming...
 
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Looks great, good job
 
Some parts painted with black epoxy:
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I have to take some parts from the old 1/2 tub, the ambulance door striker:
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Some acid bath first
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Fuel filler neck cup, what ever... clued at it’s place:
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...and it’s cover:
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Teseven did something not so original, the upper edge is narrower than original, so that’s why there is thick washers between:
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The ambulance door hinge’s back plate didn’t fit too, had to cut the lap seal to get it straight and how else to do it...
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...than from outside:
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Next the spare tire carrier pin fix:
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I ordered some bushings from Aliexpress:
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And bolts too. These were nice match:
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And then painting in my tarpauling shed. I used polyurethane paint for working machines: Tikkurila Temadur HS90
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First topcoat paintjob ever with a paintgun. The body is grinded only with 120 grit paper, the paint is thick. I like.
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The Teseven´s tub is not straight, I had to press it about 1 cm:
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And the rear panel was not straight too, it was folded forward. I used aluminium putty to fix it. Filled also the too deep weatherstrip grooves.
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I ordered the roll bar from 4x4Megastore, Portugal. It fits nicely.
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...even with the long jump seat:
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Spare tire carrier bushings again:
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And again some misalignment done by Teseven:
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Aussie made floormat test fitted:
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Some connector cleaning:
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Homemade radio delete panel:
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I got JIS stainless bolts from Overlandicmetric. Good stuff.
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More painting:
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More coats with black epoxy:
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I got the front bumper back from the powder coater:
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The knuckles were quite pitted:
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I filled them by Plastic Padding Chemical Metal:
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...and painted the with epoxy:
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More cleaning:
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and painted with black epoxy:
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Gearbox and transfer case cleaned, good enough for me. Few new seals installed:
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I installed new OEM knuckle seals/wipers... and didn´t like the result:
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So, I replaced those with Trail Gear Trail Safe Knuckle Ball Wiper Seal Now it´s good:
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Brake calibers and drums painted with Foliatec Vintage Copper 2K paint:
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Brake hose test fitting, I had to bypass the shock, because it´s now at the different side of the axle. Longer hose needed:
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Grease between the Rough Country leaves. Also 4 degree shims installed:
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New bump stops:
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Fiberglass fender test fit:
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New longer hose for the left front caliber:
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Engine, gearbox&transfer case installed:
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Then only the rest is needed:
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Quite high it is:
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Brake pipes bent:
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Fender flare fitment. I moved the axle 1" backwards to getting the wheel more centered:
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Longer rear brake hose installed:
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Stainless steel muffler (Walker 21337) installed with flex joint:
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Selfdesigned bracket for it, SS too. Do not stare at the welds, the spool is not turning right, the wire is wound incorrectly.
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Cooling system washing, first with soda crystals, then with citric acid.
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New exhaust pipe studs and clamp:
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Homemade relay box for the trailer elecrics (because of the 24V system). I feed this with 24-12V converter:
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More cleaning/painting:
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Stainless steel screws for the tank outlet:
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New shield tube for the wires:
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These are for the trailer electrics:
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This is good stuff:
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... to fix e.g. torn rubber:
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This is called "madman´s circulate" in Finnish, I don´t remember how it´s called in English. Just for case, I don´t know is there any problem yet.
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New 16 teeth gear to speedometer cable, maybe the speedometer shows more right now with the 35’s.
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The felt insulations are changed to modern Closed Cell Foam Insulation:
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General view:
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Then the rear shackle modification to ball beared:
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Ready except the painting:
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These are the parts, thanks to my friend Rafu for the milling.
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Installed:
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Power steering ready:
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Pipes are bent:
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Steering wheel is Nardi copy with older style center donut:
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Rear brakes done, the shoes were fine:
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These hand brake lever things were not so great. There was a steel insert in these old ones:
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And those missing in the new ones (why?)
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So 0.1 mm shims bought to get the lever tight enough:
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New rubber boots of course:
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Some feelings:
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The tank straps mountings had to modify, thanks again Teseven. I don’t know what is thought.
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Amazon step for the hitch receiver:
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Hammerite Gold was great match to the yellow zinc:
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I don’t know about these fiberglass fenders...
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So I bought new OEM ones:
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Steering wheel fitted, also the white stitches are painted brown along with the yellow center line:
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Belts on:
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And more painting:
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New Aisin clutch master cylinder from Rockauto.
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Brake master needed some TLC:
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The original was a little too much gone inside, I honed it, but there still was some corrosion.

So, I bought new aftermarket one and dismantled it. There was few differences, look at the caps between the C-clip and plastic (left new, right old):
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Also one seal was missing, not even place for it:
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Also the valves missing:
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So, I installed the new ABE master cylinder with the old OEM inserts:
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Also old cap refreshed with WD40 (because no sensor in the new one):
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Heater core is washed, cleaned, new seals and a little new paint. 👌
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The power steering reservoir is found it’s place:
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Holes are made for the PTO handle and hand brake lever:
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Steering wheel looks suitable for me. I modified the blue center T-logo piece to work as horn:
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Fuel filling/breather pipes are installed:
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The trailer connector wires are plugged (13-pin Euro-model socket):
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Hand brake cable routing:
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I drilled new hole for the link that the cable reach better:
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Then the radiator. Looks very ok
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But after first test drive I found it leaked. 🤯 A little air pressure to it and I found the leak point:
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I brought it to get it fixed, the shop owner says that he tried to fix it, but the leaking point goes further. He thougt that there is some resin used in these aged Japanese radiators. He said he can’t fix it, so the radiator need a new core (530€). 😱
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So, I brought it back and tested again. No leaks. 😳
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I blasted it with glass for make it sure it is solid:
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And put some metal epoxy to the area where the leak was been:
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And painted it black:
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A new OEM cap for making it sure.
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I finally got the original expansion tank cleaned:
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New OEM battery mounts:
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Cable connectors changed to new aftermarker ones:
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Finally some test driving:
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And as I supposed, I have to trim the rear arches:
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The spare tire carrier is painted and installed. I really like the result, solid and good looking:
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