- Thread starter
- #21
Sounds like something I can get after while I wait for the Harmonic Balancer ... Thanks.
I will got to FSM for torque spec and I have yellow paint.
Birfield Question..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BTLSHP
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I will got to FSM for torque spec and I have yellow paint.
- Thread starter
- #22
Okay, I did a reasonable job removing the 30 years of accumulated Dolly Sods, WV dust. I checked the 12 17mm bolts for the Trunnion bearings. I would say the top two on the passenger said moved slightly before the torque wrench "clicked." All of the others did not move before they torque wrench clicked. I backed them off minutely, and then torqued them down. Nothing remarkable. The zip tie confirmed they were about 2/3's full.
In Maryland, I'd be arrested if I soaked things in diesel, so I did the best I could with mineral spirits.
I will have to work on my smell skills, it seemed to me that what was in the birf was grease not unlike the CV joint on my Lexus.
Fluid Film or Surface Shield will be my last task before shipping it off to Colorado.
Hornd
SILVER Star
Strong Work and thanks for the Pictures. Smart on the Torque Marks.
- Thread starter
- #24
I can follow directions..... I am organizing the service history this evening and tomorrow. One thing that has me curious, what do you make of a service where the rear rotors were replaced and there is no mention of bearings?
I am considering doing the rear bearings and replacing the rotors as well.
- Thread starter
- #25
Ok, sort of a Birfield related question, maybe not. Today I was cleaning the underside of WV mud and decided the productive outcome would be to also clean the axel vents and ensure they functioned.
Well.....ok, the rear is sorted and no big deal.
The front, is a different story. The hose had been replaced at some point and was like an Audi vacuum line - Pringles potato chip comes to mind. But when I took the fitting off of the axel I got a 4-5 second hissing sound as pressure equalized. I could not all if air was going in or out but it was hissing.
What does this suggest is next?
Well.....ok, the rear is sorted and no big deal.
The front, is a different story. The hose had been replaced at some point and was like an Audi vacuum line - Pringles potato chip comes to mind. But when I took the fitting off of the axel I got a 4-5 second hissing sound as pressure equalized. I could not all if air was going in or out but it was hissing.
What does this suggest is next?
ppc
M Go Blue
It "suggests" nothing. The fact is the breather is not functioning so it needs to be fixed.
jfz80
Cruisin’
The other possibility depending on which way the air flows is that where the line terminated up inside/on driver frame rail is clogged.
Easy solution is to remove and clean breather then rout the line up to the engine bay and top with a small 2stroke air/gas filter
Easy solution is to remove and clean breather then rout the line up to the engine bay and top with a small 2stroke air/gas filter
- Thread starter
- #29
The rear was the standard routing up to a frame rail just forward of the spare tire.
The front has obviously been manipulated at some point, the hose was covered with braided nylon and had turned brittle. The fitting was sort of randomly pinched between other lines in the battery area. It was completely closed to airflow. I plan to find a better location, perhaps your idea of a small air filter would be a good idea - the cap is not all that obvious in terms of function.
Also make sure the fitting itself is clear. Mine had many years of gear oil wax clogged the fitting and I had to use a drill bit (in hand) to clear out the crud in the fitting.
Get about 5 ft of 1/4" id fuel hose, a 1/4" cheap fuel filter, and hose clamps and tun the hose up past the frame and up next to the brake booster. Keep the filter in the vertical position so any gear oil that burps up to it can drain back down. Then add a 12" long piece of hose to the other side of the filter and curve it over the booster and point it down so water cannot fully enter the hose and drain into the differential.
Make sure to leave enough slack in the hose for full extension down travel of you axle do it doesn't rip off the hose when you're doing sweet jumps.
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes, I removed both axle fittings with a 14mm and ensured they were clear. I am looking at the little vent caps and thinking there are better solutions. Both of mine were completely gummed up. Fuel filters seem like a good option.
Personally i would like to do the birfield seals. But if i was sending my wife (no kids for me) out in it and i had limited time and budget, i would focus on a lot of other stuff first.
It sounds like you are on the right track. Everything rubber, full coolant system, brakes, fluids, fuel filter, battery, belts, air filter, plugs and wires and so on.
What really goes bad on the birfield is the inner seals. The outer seals are just felt ment to keep dust and dirt out of the grease. The crud that builds up is becouse oil is mixing with the grease and the felt seal isnt ment to hold oil. So it dribbles out. I belive that the birfield can actually still be well lubricated by the gear oil/grease mix. But the problem is that the gear oil wont stay in place like the grease will long term. So the crud build up is more of a symtom of the bad inner seal than "bad berfields".
It sounds like you are on the right track. Everything rubber, full coolant system, brakes, fluids, fuel filter, battery, belts, air filter, plugs and wires and so on.
What really goes bad on the birfield is the inner seals. The outer seals are just felt ment to keep dust and dirt out of the grease. The crud that builds up is becouse oil is mixing with the grease and the felt seal isnt ment to hold oil. So it dribbles out. I belive that the birfield can actually still be well lubricated by the gear oil/grease mix. But the problem is that the gear oil wont stay in place like the grease will long term. So the crud build up is more of a symtom of the bad inner seal than "bad berfields".
I will also add this. If you deside to do a sevice like front rotors or wheel bearings then you are already in there and might as well do the birfields. But if you know wheel bearings and rotors are all good. Then maybe focus on other parts. Just my 2 cents.
- Thread starter
- #35
Yes, the front bearings have been on an every 30k mile service program since new, they are 20k since the last service.....
Frankly, I have some time and this will be among the last items on my list. Rear bearings have never been serviced, but seem fine so I will start with them.
Parts are stacking up and I need to create a more detailed work plan. My immediate goals:
- Take as is photos.
- Figure out "all rubber" approach to rear heater
- Drain coolant - radiator hose and block.
- Drain and fill transmission pan
- Disassemble rear heater valve, EGR, throttle body and IM
- Have IM cleaned professionally
- Remove starter
- Replace all transmission, cooling, heating hoses as well as vacuum lines.
- R&R rear bearings
Rotors were done at 154k miles, the fronts are suspect to me. There is a sort of depression in the left front uniformly 3/4" wide. Brakes are on the list, we have done the lines and fluid. Delaying a bit on pads and rotors.
Frankly, I have some time and this will be among the last items on my list. Rear bearings have never been serviced, but seem fine so I will start with them.
Parts are stacking up and I need to create a more detailed work plan. My immediate goals:
- Take as is photos.
- Figure out "all rubber" approach to rear heater
- Drain coolant - radiator hose and block.
- Drain and fill transmission pan
- Disassemble rear heater valve, EGR, throttle body and IM
- Have IM cleaned professionally
- Remove starter
- Replace all transmission, cooling, heating hoses as well as vacuum lines.
- R&R rear bearings
Rotors were done at 154k miles, the fronts are suspect to me. There is a sort of depression in the left front uniformly 3/4" wide. Brakes are on the list, we have done the lines and fluid. Delaying a bit on pads and rotors.
- Thread starter
- #36
Ok in late May, I cleaned the Birfields best I could and posted pictures. Today I looked at them again with the car on stands and took photos. I am concerned one bolt on the drivers side is "wet" and on the pax side the ball is much wetter than the drivers side. Can anyone educate me? Car had 235k mostly highway miles, Birf's have not been touched.
Thanks
Thanks
Did you recently rebuild your front axle or just tighten up some bolts??
What you're looking at is not the "birfield" but the swivel ball that the steering knuckle rotates on when you steer. Birfield refers to the type of CV joint our trucks use which is located inside the swivel ball or end of the axle housing and the knuckle.
Seeing some grease on the swivel balls is not unusual, but if it smells like gear oil and starts dripping out of the knuckle past the wiper seals that's refered to (on the forum) as "Birf soup", a mixture of grease and gear oil which means gear oil is getting past the axle (shaft) seal.
FWIW here's a couple of links for the Front Axle Service, or a Knuckle Rebuild, or if you're an Aussie, a Swivel Hub Rebuild:
Australian version:
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American version:
What you're looking at is not the "birfield" but the swivel ball that the steering knuckle rotates on when you steer. Birfield refers to the type of CV joint our trucks use which is located inside the swivel ball or end of the axle housing and the knuckle.
Seeing some grease on the swivel balls is not unusual, but if it smells like gear oil and starts dripping out of the knuckle past the wiper seals that's refered to (on the forum) as "Birf soup", a mixture of grease and gear oil which means gear oil is getting past the axle (shaft) seal.
FWIW here's a couple of links for the Front Axle Service, or a Knuckle Rebuild, or if you're an Aussie, a Swivel Hub Rebuild:
Australian version:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
American version:
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- Thread starter
- #39
I checked the torque on all the bolts and marked with paint sticks, two moved before the wrench "clicked." I have watched the videos. Real challenge for me is for work space I am limited to a narrow 1 car garage. Technically, we are not supposed to work on cars in the driveway----but I do it all the time.
My sense of smell is beyond limited, not certain I could distinguish diff oil and grease. I am just going to keep an eye on things for now.
My sense of smell is beyond limited, not certain I could distinguish diff oil and grease. I am just going to keep an eye on things for now.
The entire back side of ball should be a little greasy and oily. It's a "total loss" type lubrication system. The felts and wipes are there to keep the grease "contained" and not just flowing out all over, but you have to top off the knuckle ball with grease. I give mine about 35ML every 7500 miles, when I do all the other regular maintenance. Looking at yours, it appears you only have grease about half way up the ball, but it could be the lighting.
Grease, by its nature is an oil suspended in a carrier. When grease gets warm the oil flows out of the carrier and when it cools the oil goes back into the carrier. The drip of oil off the bottom of the knuckle bolts is totally normal.
Grease, by its nature is an oil suspended in a carrier. When grease gets warm the oil flows out of the carrier and when it cools the oil goes back into the carrier. The drip of oil off the bottom of the knuckle bolts is totally normal.
