Birfield Question..... (1 Viewer)

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Your tool kit is miles ahead of mine..... I use an angle grinder and a wire wheel, sometimes a flap wheel. Then it is hand work plus finishing with phosphoric acid.
 
Replaced mine about a year ago on my cloth interior 97, what a difference! I washed the seat covers and used electrical tie straps in lieu of hog rings and whole job took a little over three hours for both seats. The foam quality is excellent, thinking of buying another and trimming it to use on the driver seat in the 40.
 
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We're gonna need you to do this throughout the rest of the manual! OK? 👍

Let's circle back to this, say next week?

Ok, thanks. Good talk

:lol:
 
working on it...
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These are all in the 1995 80 series service manual I posted in the Resources section; the pages can be extracted from the 1995 maunal and inserted into the manual of your choice, if you want. The data is good for all US 1993-1997 80 series.

I hate continually looking up stuff that I need; I update this as I do more maintenance on 80's. I think the next update will cover the vacuum and air hoses under the air intakes.
 
working on it...
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These are all in the 1995 80 series service manual I posted in the Resources section; the pages can be extracted from the 1995 maunal and inserted into the manual of your choice, if you want. The data is good for all US 1993-1997 80 series.

I hate continually looking up stuff that I need; I update this as I do more maintenance on 80's. I think the next update will cover the vacuum and air hoses under the air intakes.
Nice. I'll go check it out
 
Constructive criticism is welcome...I just threw that together after having to search through too many pages, too often.
 
Constructive criticism is welcome...I just threw that together after having to search through too many pages, too often.

I've downloaded it. Looks good.

Your version is searchable, many of them are not. That's a huge help.
Also, having active links to jump to various sections is a great plus.

Would be amazing to have an active index page at the start of the doc with active links to each section.

This page is lifted from the Chassis repair manual i have downloaded

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I'll see what I can do...did you see the bookmarks?
 
As a guy who searches endless pages in an Audi pdf these are gifts from heaven! Of course, my reading skills have gaps now and then
 
Ok, it has been about 500+ miles since I topped off the grease for the birfield and cleaned up 30 years of dirt. I took this picture of the Driver's side from the rear as the wheel was off to do the starter. Pax side is similar. The truck has 235k of 98% highway driving to a cabin in the woods as its history.

There is no clicking noise accelerating, turning or going straight. The joints have not been serviced. Any thoughts? We are pretty deep into a maintenance baseline as part of handing this down to my daughter and I am torn over what to do here


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I would add another half tube of moly grease to that knuckle ball and call it good.

I've been driving (hwy miles) about 50K on seals that look worse than that. I add more moly about every 6 months to keep the grease thick enough to not drip out on the ground. Yes, I need to rebuild the front axle because I have over 150K on it since the last rebuild, but I have not had time for two years. My trunnion bearings are shot I'm sure.
 
I just remembered, you mentioned your bearings were Timken and not Koyo. OEM bearings were Timken. Timken designed those bearings specifically for on/off highway four wheel drive axles. The Koyo bearings are copies of the Timken design.

FWIW, unless I'm in a hurry, I buy my bearings from bearing distributors, not dealerships. Same bearings, much lower prices.

You can also buy single cones or cups that way; you don't have to buy the set. The numbers are on each cup/cone box. They're also listed in the steering knuckle and axle shaft section of the 1995 80 series service manual I posted in the Resources section, on the COMPONENTS page ( I got tired of continually looking them up, and I never got around to buying the poster).
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Ignore anyone who tells you not to do this; there are bearings you have to buy in a set, but they're only sold that way. Any bearing that is sold piecemeal can be matched that way; that's the reason for selling them in pieces. If the bearing manufacturers didn't want you to do it that way, they wouldn't let the distributors do it.

Bearings Direct
Motion Industries
etc.

The part number for the longer screws is on this page, too. 91651-60625 (M6 x 25-mm long); OEM part number is 91651-60618 (M6 x 18-mm long). The longer one works regardless of which seal set you use. The holes are drilled far deeper than was necessary for the short screws. I looked for days, but never found a 20-mm long screw; which is what should have been there all along. That's not true. What should have been there was M8 x 20long.

6-mm screws have no place on an axle. On a Land Cruiser.
There is a difference between the Koyo, Timken, and other bearings with the same part numbers.

The Koyo have more rollers, thus spreading the load over more surface area.

Some day, I am going to find all the bearings I have used in various brands and place them side by side and take pics. In one particular size of bearings, the cheap O'Reilly bearings had 11 rollers, the Timken had 16 (I think) and the Koyo had 19 (I think). I was shocked at the considerable difference in quantity.

I will only use the Koyo from here out.

If I could find Koyo bearings for the front spindles of my Studebaker, I would buy them. I only get about 10K out of them before they are shot and they are smaller than the trunnion bearings on my LC.
 
An old shop convinced my dad all these things needed was grease, and that is all they have had….

We’re going to bite the bullet and get this done before it goes to its new home. I am in Denver with her now and will assemble my parts order when I return. I’m am sensitive to the fact that I just did the hubs w/new bearings and hope I can just carefully remove them and set them aside adding a bit of grease to the spindle when I reassemble.

The good news is their favorite neighbor cares for an older Tundra and seems willing to help them learn. The co-owner of her business is a small Audi shop
 
I’m am sensitive to the fact that I just did the hubs w/new bearings and hope I can just carefully remove them and set them aside adding a bit of grease to the spindle when I reassemble.
Totally doable
Set them on a clean piece of cardboard then cover them with clean paper towels.
Using clean gloves doing it.
 
Totally doable
Set them on a clean piece of cardboard then cover them with clean paper towels.
Using clean gloves doing it.
I have to admit that I will feel better with this job done before it heads west.
 
Please explain
Mineral spirits break down the grease so that it can be removed. It doesn't leave any residue because of its low flash point. It's cheap.
 
Mineral spirits break down the grease so that it can be removed. It doesn't leave any residue because of its low flash point. It's cheap.
I will have to try it.
I know it's not safe but I have always used gas, when I was young and dumb I would smoke and clean part at the same time with no gloves :oops:
I don't smoke anymore and use gloves now but the fumes are still nasty.
 
When we were young, gasoline was different than it is now. I did the same thing then.
 

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