Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that (1 Viewer)

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watrob said:
I have just finished a 12Ht install into a FJ40 chassis (I also added 80 series coils suspension all round), now I am doing the same as you and building a RJ70 chassis and going to install a 12HT as well.

My question is this, on the FJ40 chassis I did not have to move the engine mount brackets on the chassis as some types of 40 series came with a 2H which is the little brother to the 12HT, so what plans do you have in regards to the 70's chassis engine brackets? will you have to move them?
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Damn, that's my first question.......... I have seen 2 threads on here, one saying yes you have to move them and one saying no.
Is the RJ70 short wheel base?....sorry.
I thought I would mount my H55F gearbox, 2H bellhousing and 12HT together with the 12HT engine mounts on the motor, then bolt the gearbox to my existing new gearbox mounts and see where it sits. Mark the chassis and move the engine mounts if I have to.
 
I thought of that all well, but the 12HT is a long engine, specially with the triple pulley harmonic balancer and the clutch fan. Suppose the best way is like you said but also check how your radiator will fit at the same time.

Your distance is from your firewall to the front grill and allowing for the radiator?

I am thinking of working from the front, then backwards and moving the gearbox mount as well if needed because you cannot move the body shell? Position the 12ht as close to the firewall as possible. The bell housing is pretty long as is a 5 speed gearbox?
 
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watrob said:
I thought of that all well, but the 12HT is a long engine, specially with the triple pulley harmonic balancer and the clutch fan. Suppose the best way is like you said but also check how your radiator will fit at the same time.

Your distance is from your firewall to the front grill and allowing for the radiator?

I am thinking of working from the front, then backwards and moving the gearbox mount as well if needed because you cannot move the body shell? Position the 12ht as close to the firewall as possible. The bell housing is pretty long as is a 5 speed gearbox?
Click to expand...

Thanks watrob, I am hoping the radiator is all I have to worry about, I'd hate to be changing drive shaft lengths:bang:
Hey surely I'm over all the hard stuff...........right?.........it should be all down hill from here! ha.
 
watrob said:
This is going to be a long build thread? cannot wait to see the test bedding of the 12HT plus 5 speed gearbox?

Now you know why I go down the fibreglass body route?
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It depends on what you call long, this is my first build so I don't have anything to go off, I thought I would be finished by now.

My plans are to get the body ready to top coat and the engine and gearbox installed July/Aug *individual results may vary
I have yet to buy my clutch and engine mounts, my extended brake lines and handbrake cable are here.

Yer fibreglass does have some advantages. I'll make sure I take heaps of photos and PM them to you.

 
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The thread has caught up to real time. I have no photos yet of the bellhousing, it is connected to another H55f gearbox which grinds between 2nd-3rd so I will keep the box and transfer case for a while. I also have some Turbo suspension seats out of a 60 series.

So I'm at the limits now of my knowledge, I know what I want, a rough understanding of mechanics (none of which is with turbo diesels) I can use most power tools, my hands are tools......I'm a tool.
Any help would be much appreciated. So here's my final build specs and some questions.
 
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Clutch - should I get Safari clutch or heavy duty? - I think H/D is more than enough?
The engine is 24v at what point do I change it to 12v - I have a starter motor from a 2H - can I use it? - I want twin batteries
So far I have a 2" suspension lift - I want Tyres 33s - Polished alooominum deep dish wheels - so will I need a 2" body lift??
3" exhaust system
Aluminium radiator?
Custom bars - rock sliders - I may attempt to make them?
Snorkle - flares? - chopped back doors
White paint job - black bar work
Obviously there's more - upholstery, dash, electrical, winches etc etc and will list in detail as I get through the next few months.

Here's where things get a little complicated because I think I would use the vehicle more as a ute, with the option to still be able to put the fibreglass roof on when touring or when ever. So I am going to press an aluminium tub to fit inside the body and rest above the wheel arches to create space for a set of drawers underneath and a waterproof tub above forming a back wall for the cab, then installing a sliding window?
If I do not have to spend any major money on the engine and get the all clear from a mechanic after diagnosing the running engine i will put an intercooler in before build finish instead of a mod later on.

Anyway there you have it for now. Thanks for watching:)
 
You will have to get a flywheel off a 2H as this 12Ht is from a auto?

Also make sure you get the right clutch kit to match the 5 speed?

And finally don't get a 2H clutch as they are not heavy enough, go for a light heavy duty one.
 
wongtsenhin said:
Clean engine.
Did you steam wash it initially?:)
and what is your engine no?
Click to expand...

It came out of a 60 series that was a personal import. I heard it running in the car before bidding on it on Ebay.
I have done nothing on it yet. Whats the relevance of the engine number?
 
watrob said:
You will have to get a flywheel off a 2H as this 12Ht is from a auto?

Also make sure you get the right clutch kit to match the 5 speed?

And finally don't get a 2H clutch as they are not heavy enough, go for a light heavy duty one.
Click to expand...


I missed out twice at my local wreckers, there seems to be more flywheels North of Brisbane. Yes it is from an auto, do you know anyone who wants to swap a torque converter for one?
Thanks for the advice on the clutch. I saw some of your thread, you have just about done all this before, love the detail you went to on the 40.
 
Billyfj7312ht said:
Clutch - should I get Safari clutch or heavy duty? - I think H/D is more than enough?
The engine is 24v at what point do I change it to 12v - I have a starter motor from a 2H - can I use it? - I want twin batteries
So far I have a 2" suspension lift - I want Tyres 33s - Polished alooominum deep dish wheels - so will I need a 2" body lift??
3" exhaust system
Aluminium radiator?
Custom bars - rock sliders - I may attempt to make them?
Snorkle - flares? - chopped back doors
White paint job - black bar work
Obviously there's more - upholstery, dash, electrical, winches etc etc and will list in detail as I get through the next few months.

Here's where things get a little complicated because I think I would use the vehicle more as a ute, with the option to still be able to put the fibreglass roof on when touring or when ever. So I am going to press an aluminium tub to fit inside the body and rest above the wheel arches to create space for a set of drawers underneath and a waterproof tub above forming a back wall for the cab, then installing a sliding window?
If I do not have to spend any major money on the engine and get the all clear from a mechanic after diagnosing the running engine i will put an intercooler in before build finish instead of a mod later on.

Anyway there you have it for now. Thanks for watching:)
Click to expand...

Should be able to use 12v 2h starter. Will need to get a 12v vacuum switch to shut the motor off like they normally do, or fab up a shut down cable to the pump. That and a 12v alternator with the vac pump on the back should be the main things you need to convert it. Maybe tacho and other sensors as well if you can't use the 3f ones.

Get a heavy duty clutch, especially if you're planning on upping the power.

And stay with a copper 3or 4 core radiator. The ali ones are bad for getting cracks. Unless you can get one custom made with extra thick plate, but expensive.

How heavy is the tub on the 73? Gotta do the same to mine at some point
 
jb BJ73 said:
Should be able to use 12v 2h starter. Will need to get a 12v vacuum switch to shut the motor off like they normally do, or fab up a shut down cable to the pump. That and a 12v alternator with the vac pump on the back should be the main things you need to convert it. Maybe tacho and other sensors as well if you can't use the 3f ones.

Get a heavy duty clutch, especially if you're planning on upping the power.

And stay with a copper 3or 4 core radiator. The ali ones are bad for getting cracks. Unless you can get one custom made with extra thick plate, but expensive.

How heavy is the tub on the 73? Gotta do the same to mine at some point
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Thanks for that jb, I think I will go the copper radiator too, Iv'e heard that a couple of times now.
The tub was 230 KG I think?
 
Awesome Build mate

I've put 12HTs into both my SWB 70s and what I did was just bolt the whole drive train in Engine/gearbox together ( H55F gearbox) and just bolted the gearbox into its factory location and that gives you the ideal postioning for the 12HT. I originally had a 1HZ and 3B in the 2 shortys and none of the mounts came close to fitting , not sure what the 3F mounts would be like. As it turns out because the 60 series chassis are 50mm wider youll proberly find like I did you cant use the 60 series drivers side engine mount off the block because it basically hits the chassis on the 70. I used factory 12HT mount on passenger side and custom made the drivers side

For the radiators I fitted the standard 60 series radiators with modified shrouds and mounts. Works well.

Well worth the time to go 12HT , I have a FJ73 also and while I love it shes no match for a G-Turbo'd 12HT even on 35's
 
NZCruisers said:
Awesome Build mate

I've put 12HTs into both my SWB 70s and what I did was just bolt the whole drive train in Engine/gearbox together ( H55F gearbox) and just bolted the gearbox into its factory location and that gives you the ideal postioning for the 12HT. I originally had a 1HZ and 3B in the 2 shortys and none of the mounts came close to fitting , not sure what the 3F mounts would be like. As it turns out because the 60 series chassis are 50mm wider youll proberly find like I did you cant use the 60 series drivers side engine mount off the block because it basically hits the chassis on the 70. I used factory 12HT mount on passenger side and custom made the drivers side

For the radiators I fitted the standard 60 series radiators with modified shrouds and mounts. Works well.

Well worth the time to go 12HT , I have a FJ73 also and while I love it shes no match for a G-Turbo'd 12HT even on 35's
Click to expand...


That sounds about right, from my rough measurements the passenger side engine mount seems close but the drivers side seems way out.
I suppose I won't know till I bolt it all together. Your G-Turbo'd 70s sound awsome, @watrob would be interested in that.
How high was your lift for the 35s?
 
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