Builds Big Red Toy (27 Viewers)

[mcguirejohnson]

Nice company your Cruiser keeps there MJ.

Thanks Pacer, my dad is into older corvettes and camaros, the gold one is a 71 lt1 solid lifter motor with a 4 speed! Pretty cool ride other than the ugly paint. I've been hogging the lift for a while trying to get my soa done.. Time to get to work ha!
Mj

 

[The Phoenician]

Voltmeter/alternator question.

I notice when it's cold, my voltmeter in the dash reads lower. when it's warm it read at the middle dash or higher. At first it made sense to me since I need more cranking power to start a diesel when it's cold, but shouldn't it eventually get back to the middle once you drive it? Last night I started it and went to the movies, the voltmeter was in the red, but it started and drove like normal and got me back to the house once I was done. This morning I started it to test the alternator and it's charging normally.

So my question is does cold temperature affect how much an alternator / battery recharges or is my gauge acting up? I have a 22si alternator that cranks 150amps if that matters.

Not sure if this is because of the dual batteries or just a coincidence.

 

[The Phoenician]

ok so it turns out my voltage fluctuation is just a bad gauge. My alternator puts out 13.8 volts at any load or speed, but the gauge is showing anywhere from 15 volts to 8 volts.

In other news I did a preliminary alignment this morning. Preliminary because I'll have to redo it once I add some shims and new bushings. My tie rod ends are good (there's 0 play) but the boots are not holding grease anymore.

Ok so this is how it goes, You input the make and model into the computer and it will give you the stock specifications.


then you hook up the reflectors onto the tires. Make sure you input the correct tire pressure. At this stage the computer will flash red because nothing on the rig is stock anymore


As you can see, my rig's toes stick outwards. The caster is also negative which means I have to add shims under the leaf springs to get it to zero or positive


Next adjust the steering linkage/tie rod ends to bring the toe to 0


here is a before and after print out. Notice the rear is slightly misaligned as well, but there's nothing we can do about it since it's a solid axle. This is probably due to differences in the leaf spring sag, either way it's negligible.


Once I install the bushings an shims I'll have to redo this process again. But I can definite feel a major difference in the way the rig rides right now.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

ok so it turns out my voltage fluctuation is just a bad gauge. My alternator puts out 13.8 volts at any load or speed, but the gauge is showing anywhere from 15 volts to 8 volts.

I'm jealous. Mine actually fluctuates as my headlights, gauge cluster lights, all lights, dim and brighten with the gauge. It throws a lot of people off,

 

[davegonz]

That used to drive me nuts when I had my old 62.

 

[The Phoenician]

I'm jealous. Mine actually fluctuates as my headlights, gauge cluster lights, all lights, dim and brighten with the gauge. It throws a lot of people off,

Johnny
If it makes you feel better, my alarm system is acting up, it never ends with these things.

That used to drive me nuts when I had my old 62.

Dave
What drove you nuts, the fluctuating voltmeter or the tires toeing out?

 

[davegonz]

Wacky gauges (temp and voltmeter).

 

[The Phoenician]

Wacky gauges (temp and voltmeter).

yeah, I'm thinking I need an aftermarket one now.

 

[The Phoenician]

Looks like it's also time to replace my rotors. The front left one is at 0.721" and the minimum allowed is 0.748". I'm going to need new calipers anyway so I'm thinking of upgrading to something larger. What larger rotors and calipers fit and what do y'all recommend? I did a cursory search but couldn't come up with anything definitive.

I also found a bent U bolt, so will need to look into that as well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Tundra 235mm brakes (calipers and rotors). Goes along with putting on IFS hubs and an adapter plate from Front Range Offroad.

Pretty involved, but that's the only diameter upgrade in brakes you can do. You can get slightly bigger calipers, and vented rotors, but nothing larger until you go to Tundra stuff.

 

[The Phoenician]

Thanks Johnny. The only thing I found was this for the tacoma

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=136

Is that what you were referring to?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks Johnny. The only thing I found was this for the tacoma

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=136

Is that what you were referring to?

Yup, exactly. You can use the Tundra 235mm brakes with those brackets and IFS hubs. Baxter650 did it with his project.

 

[The Phoenician]

Thanks, I'll look up his thread now to get a better idea.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Yep as Johhny mentioned the tundra upgrade is about the best you can do, unless you want to swap out your front axle for a Dana 60 and run some 1 ton brakes with a hydroboost setup.

Before I did my cummins swap I upgraded to 4Runner Caipers and that was good enough with rear disc brakes.

 

[The Phoenician]

Stevo,
I'm on a tight budget for a while, so the rear disks will have to wait. I am very interested in the tundra conversion though. The only thing I worry about is the possibility that it could nose dive every time I hit the brakes because the rears will still be drums.

 

[boots4]

... The only thing I worry about is the possibility that it could nose dive every time I hit the brakes because the rears will still be drums.

With your shackle set up being up front you're less prone to brake dive than a shackle in the rear like me.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

With your shackle set up being up front you're less prone to brake dive than a shackle in the rear like me.

With the 5 3/4" shackles (all around) on my rig right now, I get a slight front end dive when braking hard.. But, I need to add shocks since there are NONE, high steer, shims, rear sway and then see where I'm at.

J

 

[The Phoenician]

ok guys, I need clarification on this tundra brake swap. I read the thread and it indicates I need hubs that come from a tundra with packable wheel bearings. Not sure if I misunderstood that but, the Tundras in US came with sealed/pressed front bearings. So is it different hubs you guys are referring to?

Also my other option is rear disks, but I don't know how to add the emergency brakes to that, which would cause it to fail inspection. Has anyone successfully done a rear disk conversion with the stock axle and have the emergency brakes?

EDIT: so I read further and it's obviously not tundra hubs that are being referred to since Baxter650 references 86 to 95 models. So is it 4 Runner, Hilux pickups then? Sorry for annoying questions, I just want to get the right parts from the get go. I will PM him and post up his reply

 

[davegonz]

I had the El Camino rear disks on the Princess and the parking brake sucked. One option is to get a rare splitcase with parking brake combo. Jason Darling has one if you're interested. I have no idea what he wants for it.

 

[The Phoenician]

I had the El Camino rear disks on the Princess and the parking brake sucked. One option is to get a rare splitcase with parking brake combo. Jason Darling has one if you're interested. I have no idea what he wants for it.

I'm going to stay with the current transfer case because it was rebuilt during the swap and I'm on a budget. The only reason I'm entertaining the tundra brake upgrade is because the rotors and calipers need to be replaced anyway, so I might as well go bigger. I'm taking a braking and suspension class so I can have access to the tools and expertise, so labor cost is not an issue. I just need to get the correct parts from the get go or it will be down for a week.

On a separate note, the weather dropped below freezing last night. I wanted to see how long it would take the 4bt to start since installing the dual batteries. It started right away, but the oil pressure gauge took about 7 seconds longer than usual to move. Since installing the remote filter it's been taking anywhere from 5 to 8 seconds to move on a normal day. SO is this something to worry about? I don't want to wear out any bearings or other parts in the pursuit of convenience.