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On a separate note, the weather dropped below freezing last night. I wanted to see how long it would take the 4bt to start since installing the dual batteries. It started right away, but the oil pressure gauge took about 7 seconds longer than usual to move. Since installing the remote filter it's been taking anywhere from 5 to 8 seconds to move on a normal day. SO is this something to worry about? I don't want to wear out any bearings or other parts in the pursuit of convenience.[/QUOTE]

Well that's better than mine... it was 5 degrees for a low here last night and I found out that my block heater is tripping my shop breaker... So, I ran a few tests and yes... ordered a new Kat's 1000W.....

J
 
reevesci said:
On a separate note, the weather dropped below freezing last night. I wanted to see how long it would take the 4bt to start since installing the dual batteries. It started right away, but the oil pressure gauge took about 7 seconds longer than usual to move. Since installing the remote filter it's been taking anywhere from 5 to 8 seconds to move on a normal day. SO is this something to worry about? I don't want to wear out any bearings or other parts in the pursuit of convenience.
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I'll jump back on this one :D

I assume you changed the oil when you installed the remote filter? Diesel oil can turn to jello if it gets too contaminated...

Could you bypass the filter temporarily, just jump one hose back into the other fitting and see if it is the filter or housing that may be restricting things?

Where the stock brakes really lacking with your current tire size?
 
Pacer said:
Where the stock brakes really lacking with your current tire size?
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Aside from the size the other part of the issue is the weight of these double bead locks. I noticed an addition in stopping distance when I ran them.
 
Pacer said:
I'll jump back on this one :D

I assume you changed the oil when you installed the remote filter? Diesel oil can turn to jello if it gets too contaminated...

Could you bypass the filter temporarily, just jump one hose back into the other fitting and see if it is the filter or housing that may be restricting things?

Where the stock brakes really lacking with your current tire size?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late response, I'm out of town this weekend. Yes I changed the oil when the remote filter was set up. I'm thinking of switching the hoses to the opposite inlets/outlets and see if that makes a difference.

Stopping this rig isn't fun. On the trails there's no stopping it downhill. On the road I have to down shift and slow dow well in advance, so emergency stops are pretty much out of the question. My concentration has to always be to notch, which makes long travels a pain. It's especially hard when I drive my little vw turbo then jump in the Cruiser, it takes a bit to get readjusted to the brakes and acceleration.

I got a response from Baxter650 about the tundra upgrade. It looks pretty straight forward, but it isn't on the road worthy yet so he really can't tell me how the brakes hold up. I'm a fan of tried and true methods, but this is an intriguing upgrade. I'll see if it's not that much more expensive than just replacing the stock parts.
 
I ordered some bushings from energy suspension, should be arriving any day now. I think I'm going to just replace the rotors, calipers and brake pads with new stock ones. I love the idea of upgrading to the Tundra brakes, but since it is yet untested I will hold off. So now my next question is, are ceramic brake pads a good buy for this rig, or should I stick with the semi metallic?

I'll also be getting caster shims put in and eventually do the TREs. The only reason I'm doing the TRE is because the boots no longer hold the grease, otherwise they are on tight.
 
I do t know what you mean by the Tundra brakes being untested. They are factory equipment for millions of trucks.

If by "untested" you mean retrofitting those brakes on a 60, I'll agree, but the parts and numbers make sense for it to work just fine. Besides, if no one ever tried something that was "untested", how would we get to where we are now?

I say give it a shot.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I do t know what you mean by the Tundra brakes being untested. They are factory equipment for millions of trucks.

If by "untested" you mean retrofitting those brakes on a 60, I'll agree, but the parts and numbers make sense for it to work just fine. Besides, if no one ever tried something that was "untested", how would we get to where we are now?

I say give it a shot.
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Yeah I meant retrofitting them and seeing how they work on a 60 series. The part that I'm iffy about is replacing the hub with a 4runner hub. I'm not sure if that's an upgrade or a downgrade from the current set up. The other factor is I have a series of events coming up so I can't afford to have this rig down too long especially since my vw is acting up. I'll see if I can get a dedicated bay for me to use at the local community college, that might make things go faster.
 
Lots of people have replaced the factory hub with the ifs 4runner hubs. It's not an upgrade or downgrade, just different. Only negative is slightly increased scrub radius, but you're running spacers, so it'll be the same as what you've got now.

If that's your only concern with the Tundra swap, then do some research, because running ifs hubs on a land cruiser is not new.

Either way, I hear you about downtime. That's always my dilemma as well.
 
NolanFJ60, thanks for the link and following the thread.I can't take too much credit for anything on this rig, I just followed the examples of Johnnie, Boots and DaveGonz ... and the likes on MUD. The previous owner did a lot of the upgrades as well. I just knew I wanted a diesel in my Cruiser like the rest of the world has.

I was already thinking of upgrading to the 1 in. bore on the MC. As I was reading through the link, do I have to press out the studs? and if so, shouldn't I just go ahead and replace them since I'm in there anyway? Sorry if these are stupid questions, I've never changed a rotor on a Land Cruiser before. Though I don't expect it to be hard, I just want all the parts ready before I start.
 
.... So apparently the last time a white Bronco had a good run was in 1994...

To keep it tech, Land Cruisers are better than Broncos
 
The Phoenician said:
.... So apparently the last time a white Bronco had a good run was in 1994...

To keep it tech, Land Cruisers are better than Broncos
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Yeah, that was a blowout, never could have predicted that...

Rotors on a LC axle is not as simple as removing the caliper brackets... Some hub disassembly required, good time to check wheel bearings, re grease and whatnot...

Swapping to IFS hubs moves the rotor to the outside and simplifies the rotor removal in the future. This is why the WMS increases and you can eliminate your front spacers. This is what Johnny is getting at as scrub radius.
 
I just saw this and I want it. The tent as well.

campingtent.webp

campingtent.webp
 
This is turning out to be a :censor: week. I ordered a bunch of parts to start working the suspension and brakes, but half that stuff came in was wrong ( I had the correct part numbers, but they shipped the wrong ones). On top of that our 14 year old diabetic cat now has a brain tumor which cost a ton of $ to diagnose ( practically wiped out my toy funds) and I have to be extra sensitive around :princess: cause he's her cat.
Now the stupid transmission is making a whiny noise when in first going to second or when in second going to 3rd. Occasionally you'll hear it at idle until you depress the clutch completely. So with all these unexpected expenses, I might just stick to stock brakes after all, lick my wounds and save up for upgrades later on.

PS, how much of a PITA is it to change the pilot bearing or the throw out bearing? There's some grease or oil residue in the bellhousing, but it can't be from teh rear main since that is new and the transmission has a new gasket.
 
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The Phoenician said:
Thanks J. Do you need to drain the coolant to install it?
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Yes, drain it down and pull a freeze plug to install the element.. Don't need to completely drain it, just enough to get the level below the bottom of the plug..

Did you install a drain/by-pass valve the last time you drained your coolant? I will do this on Goss and install the new radiator at the same time for future ease...

J
 
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