BFG KO2 285/75r17 (1 Viewer)

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To confirm no rubbing on KDSS? I just picked up Ridge Grapplers at 285/75-17 and major rubbing on KDSS. Not kissing it but full hit on KDSS. I have the exact same set up as you. Currently my BFG 34x10.5 don't rub at all but I assumed due to skinnier tire.

I'm thinking if the Ridge Grapplers run true to size, I should get 285/70-17 which would be same size as the BFG 34"? Your's measure 32.5 and Ridge Grapplers at 285/70 show 32.76" (hopefully sized at that) vs 285/75 at 33.86".

I have the Nitto RG 285/75R17 and the rubbing on my drivers KDSS arm is so slight you’d never hear it or notice unless you climb under the truck. I do rub the passengers side sway bar at left full lock. I run Icon +25 offset wheels though and have SPC UCAs
 
34x10.5x17 ko2s fit well on my RW rims. No rubbing that I can discern yet.
 
Does that mean zero/minimal impact on speedometer and odometer?

Any change in tire circumfrence will have an effect on the odometer and speedometer - the important thing is, after the change how accurate are they?

I have done extensive comparisons using an outboard (independent) GPS comparing the indicated speed and odometer mileage on the LC200 and independent GPS speed and distance.

What I have observed is that with the stock P285/60R18 wheels/tires the LC200 speedometer reads approximately 3-4% faster than actual speed, but the odometer reads distance accurately.

With the LT285/70R17 tires on the 17" RW wheels the LC200 speedometer reads exactly the same as actual speed, but the odometer reads distance about 3-4% less than actual.

Bottom line? Switching from P285/60R18 wheels/tires to LT285/70R17 wheels/tires will give you a more accurate speedometer and an odometer that racks up fewer miles than actually travelled.

HTH
 
Bottom line? Switching from P285/60R18 wheels/tires to LT285/70R17 wheels/tires will give you a more accurate speedometer and an odometer that racks up fewer miles than actually travelled.

HTH

For those that care about equity in their vehicle over time, this mod also slightly affects that bottom line. The odometer may report more accurately now, but it will also under-report relative to what it was stock by that same percentage.
 
For those that care about equity in their vehicle over time, this mod also slightly affects that bottom line. The odometer may report more accurately now, but it will also under-report relative to what it was stock by that same percentage.

It’s a minute percentage. 5% change in rolling circumference is only 10k miles over 200k miles.
 
@Markuson - since you were able to get ridge grapplers 35x12.5r17 (34.76” x 12.52”) to fit on RW (50 ET) w .75” (19.05mm) spacers and KDSS relo, am curious if you think duratrac 35x12.5r18 (34.8”x12.5”) would fit on evo corse dakarzero (30 ET) w just the kdss relo.

Am also running SPC UCA, but the standard OME rather than BP51. And, yes, am re-geared to 4.88s.

Any words of advice?
 
@Markuson - since you were able to get ridge grapplers 35x12.5r17 (34.76” x 12.52”) to fit on RW (50 ET) w .75” (19.05mm) spacers and KDSS relo, am curious if you think duratrac 35x12.5r18 (34.8”x12.5”) would fit on evo corse dakarzero (30 ET) w just the kdss relo.

Am also running SPC UCA, but the standard OME rather than BP51. And, yes, am re-geared to 4.88s.

Any words of advice?

This may come as a surprise from a guy who has loved 35’s (they are still on my truck as I type this)...
But In all candor...it’s been a compromise to fit 35s.

Despite “successfully” running them, and putting them to full use (I mean running HARD in the desert, plus Moab, Breckenridge, Baja and more) ...the KDSS relocation bracket really strains a number of items including bending the link on the passenger side.

So....despite loving the float on sand, massive footprint aired way down, and excellent overall performance... This 35 runner (myself) will be dropping to a slightly shorter, inch narrower 285/75/17 soon, and removing the KDSS relo bracket. I’ll be doing that at the same time that I replace the bent link, and install skids that I elected to NOT have trimmed to accommodate the relocation bracket’s placement of the sway bar. In other words...I’m committed to no longer running the and that means that in the short term...35’s will soon be gone.

The other factor I’d like to put an end to is... its not great having to move 35’s forward using a weird “pivot” (for lack of a better term) of the lower control arms...then using the uppers to come up with a compromised result in alignment. It works...tracks well...and feels good. But the key word is still compromise.

Back to your Q tho—
Do I think you could get a similar result with the combo you mention? Yes. Or fairly close to it. But you’re gonna run into issues longer term that aren’t great.

For me...unless I can come up with another approach—maybe some future option of sway bar...maybe Tundra front...or...?—I would only recommend 35’s & relo if you are prepared to accept some pretty significant compromises.

Even Slee will tell you similar information re 35’s even with the relo...and to his credit, Christo routinely talks folks out of doing 35’s in recognition of issues. It’s not a simple tire to fit.
 
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This may come as a surprise from a guy who has loved 35’s (they are still on my truck as I type this)...
But In all candor...it’s been a compromise to fit 35s.

Despite “successfully” running them, and putting them to full use (I mean running HARD in the desert, plus Moab, Breckenridge, Baja and more) ...the KDSS relocation bracket really strains a number of items including bending the link on the passenger side.

So....despite loving the float on sand, massive footprint aired way down, and excellent overall performance... This 35 runner (myself) will be dropping to a slightly shorter, inch narrower 285/75/17 soon, and removing the KDSS relo bracket. I’ll be doing that at the same time that I replace the bent link, and install skids that I elected to NOT have trimmed to accommodate the relocation bracket’s placement of the sway bar. In other words...I’m committed to no longer running the and that means that in the short term...35’s will soon be gone.

The other factor I’d like to put an end to is... its not great having to move 35’s forward using a weird “pivot” (for lack of a better term) of the lower control arms...then using the uppers to come up with a compromised result in alignment. It works...tracks well...and feels good. But the key word is still compromise.

I love my larger tires, but damage happens even if you solve major rubbing issues.

Back to your Q tho—
Do I think you could get a similar result with the combo you mention? Yes. Or pretty close to it. It runs nicely and performs well. But...unless I can come up with another approach—maybe some future option of sway bar...maybe Tundra front...or...—I would only recommend 35’s & relo if you are prepared to accept some pretty significant compromises.

Even Christo Slee (who came up with the relo) will tell you similar information, and is known to openly talk guys out of 35’s. :)
Do these same issues exist w 34’s and relo kit?
 
Aren't the Evo Course Dakarzero wheels 17" with either a 0 or 40 offset?
 
Aren't the Evo Course Dakarzero wheels 17" with either a 0 or 40 offset?
Mainline Overland sells 40mm off the shelf. I believe you can actually order anything from 0mm to 45mm if you get them directly from the manufacturer. Unsure if Mainline facilitates that or not.
 
Aren't the Evo Course Dakarzero wheels 17" with either a 0 or 40 offset?

Correct, which is why the 18” (18x8.5, 30 ET) were being considered in hopes Markuson found the “holy grail” of offsets and other tweakage to run 35s.


Given Markuson’s candor and willingness to share what must amount to great toil, am thinking to heed a vicarious lesson and focus on either 285/70R18 w 30 ET or 285/75R17 w 40 ET - evo corse - and forego the kdss relo as well as stick w SPCs. (BTW, when I was researching lockers, I got on a tangent w the guys at Slee on the relo; they pretty much cautioned what was elaborated above.)

Now, assuming I understood correctly the above, the preferred (prob rhetorical) question becomes when will Goodyear make Duratracs in the above sizes?

Absent Goodyear pulling through, any thoughts on Ridge Grapplers vs KO2s? (Donning the flame retardant suit....). Should I be concerned about KO2s in the snow? Do Ridge Grapplers really wear slow on road, but wear fast off road? Is there another Duratrac equivalent out there worth consideration? Love my STT Pros, but still miss my old Duratracs, weak sidewalks and all.
 
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Absent Goodyear pulling through, any thoughts on Ridge Grapplers vs KO2s? (Donning the flame retardant suit....). Should I be concerned about KO2s in the snow? Do Ridge Grapplers really wear slow on road, but wear fast off road? Is there another Duratrac equivalent out there worth consideration? Love my STT Pros, but still miss my old Duratracs, weak sidewalks and all.
I'm in a similar conundrum. I doubt GY is going to add new sizes to Duratracs at this point in the game (they've been out for more than 8 years now?). If you decide you want the mountain snowflake, it really narrows the field especially if you're going 285/75 vs 285/70. I think it is just K02s or AT3Ws with the Falkens having more tread depth but a little heavier. I think depth in that size goes: KO2s<Ridge Grapplers<AT3Ws. People here swear by all four, but I've yet to hear a bad thing said about the AT3Ws and the people I know running them love them.

Can't speak to KO2s vs Ridge Grapplers on a LC, but can on pick ups. Taking weight out of the equation, hands down I prefer the Ridge Grapplers. Great manners on road, tough (picked up a few 2.5 inch screws with no issues), and at least when new did great in the snow on my wife's Tundra (the KO2s were gone before they saw snow). I wouldn't say it does great on muddy dirt roads after a melt, but neither did the KO2s. Can't speak much to tread wear as neither are driven much in comparison to what I do on my LC, but the Ridge Grapplers have stayed quieter throughout their life. I wouldn't be concerned about either on just snow, but on ice it is a different story. Our Tundra with RGs will not make it up our sloped, north-facing driveway after any storm with ice leftover in 2WD although I haven't tried playing with the various settings (4Hi works fine). The LC with Duratracs will reverse over icy, foot-tall snow drifts with ice under them but that's not apples to apples.

I couldn't tell you yet what I'm going to do this autumn. I average 30k/year commuting to/from work so I have to make this decision at the end of the summer. Unless spring/summer trips finally show me I need a stiffer sidewall, I'll probably go DTs again unless I can't get them under 1400. If not it'll be 285/75 KO2s or a whole host of contenders in 285/70 (in order of preference right now: AT3Ws, Exo-Grapplers, or maybe even Nokian Rotiiva AT+s to try something new and lighter).

Most of the 285/75/17s seem to run more than 25% heavier than stock on Rock Warriors, and that combined with fitment has sort of put me off going larger (fwiw Evo Corsas weigh about the same as stock wheels). You're only ~13% heavier with 285/70/17 DTs on RWs vs stock wheels and Dunlops, and I still get over 16 mpgs mixed dirt/hwy with BP51s on vs the ~18 I had still stock. It seems hard to find that combination of all-year/all-terrain, the snowflake rating, tread depth, weight, and mileage that Duratracs offer. That's my own limited experience and narrowly informed opinion fwiw. I may well yet cast the dice and expand that anecdotal opinion.
 
Can't speak much to tread wear as neither are driven much in comparison to what I do on my LC, but the Ridge Grapplers have stayed quieter throughout their life.

Funny you mention that. I've been in one other LC with RGs and was impressed with how quiet they were. Meanwhile, in my own rig with RGs, the tires are loud enough I'm contemplating replacement! Tires only have ~12k miles on them. I don't get it.
 
Funny you mention that. I've been in one other LC with RGs and was impressed with how quiet they were. Meanwhile, in my own rig with RGs, the tires are loud enough I'm contemplating replacement! Tires only have ~12k miles on them. I don't get it.
What's your rotation schedule out of curiosity? I rotate on all my trucks at 5k. That said my Duratracs with ~45k on them don't really register until I put the windows down on the highway. Then again I really like classic rock or iPod roulette whichever truck I'm in...
 
What's your rotation schedule out of curiosity? I rotate on all my trucks at 5k. That said my Duratracs with ~45k on them don't really register until I put the windows down on the highway. Then again I really like classic rock or iPod roulette whichever truck I'm in...

Only purchased truck 2k miles ago, so I don't know. It has a matching spare that's clearly never seen pavement. I'm about to rotate and balance them. I will say that they were over inflated when I bought it, cold PSI ~45 when 37 is recommended. Wear isn't terribly uneven but maybe it's something subtle.

I'll add they ride great. I'm a fan of them minus the noise of this particular set, and the noise doesn't align with my prior experience with them. Hence why I'm confused.
 
Funny you mention that. I've been in one other LC with RGs and was impressed with how quiet they were. Meanwhile, in my own rig with RGs, the tires are loud enough I'm contemplating replacement! Tires only have ~12k miles on them. I don't get it.

If you don’t rotate them frequently, cupping will make them noisy in less than 12k.
 
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I'll get them rotated this week, and check tread depth across width of tire. If never rotated, it'll likely be obvious.

For cupping, just compared the outer edge, and see if the treads facing each other (across each void) are the same height. When they aren’t...they get noisy...
 
Bump again. Any more reports of KO2 in 285/75/17 on 200??

I am about to pull a trigger on them and mount them on RWs. I think I am going to get them through Costco so if the fitment is a fail, I can return them easily.
 

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