Best way to build centered housing axle. (1 Viewer)

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I am building a rig from the ground up an d need some fj62 axle advise. I have a set of 87 fj62 axles.
I after much kicking and screaming:crybaby: I finally realized I needed to changed my transfer to a atlas2 with a center output. I still Like the fj-62 parts availability and the strong 4.11 3rd of the fj62 axle over other guys. I keep going back and forth the best way to actually build this centered housing axle. I admit I don't know much about Toyota's except that these axles are dang impressive. I have always been more of a Chevy, Ford, Jeep guy and am now realizing how Nice some of these Toyota parts are.

I like the 4.11 gearing it works real nice with the 465/atlas2 and could see myself getting a spare stock 3rd set just in case with the 4.11 gearing.

My current plan involves getting a 58" Housing from diamond, installing Longs, a full floater kit, a disk break upgrade, using the old 9.5 4.11 carrier that I have, and installing some type of selectable locker.

I am also looking to beef the Breaks on this thing with larger calipers. I am looking to drive the heck out of this with something that I can submerge in mud during the weekend and still rely on to stop me while cruising down the highway. I don't need e breaks in the rear I will fab up some type of transfer case e break.

As far as the front axle goes it is dang near perfect. I could see using it as mock up at the very least. For the money of sending it out for a proper cut and turn I might just upgrade to a beefier 60" front housing from diamond. I could see installing some longs and rebuilding the hubs in the front housing and calling it good.

What I am looking for is some advise on what would be the best route to go about this. And for that matter what would be the best parts to use. I plan on running 35" tires on 16x10" aluminum rims with no offset. But, I am going to be running this a bit hard through the woods mostly sliding down hills full of leaves and mud into trees and such. Most of my wheeling has been done down this trail cause it is so close. Don't worry it is a 8 mile long trail I made over the years on private property it is just really easy to slide into stuff and with the tires sticking out 3" from the body they will take a good amount of beating. I tread lightly I just end up using trees to bounce me back onto this trail:lol:. When on other trails I stick to others tracks.
The alxes will be getting slid into or ran into things left and right, I need good hubs and bearings, so I'm not rebuilding them every weekend. I could see rebuilding the hubs/bearings every year around October as long as it is not out of the world expensive.

I would like to keep maintenance cost down on this by using for instance I could see using the cheaper rotors and some beefy calipers with low cost pads(under $40 a set) to stop this thing and would not mind replacing the pads every year or freak if I had to replace the rotors at the same time.

I think I am alright going with the stock knuckles with 35" tires but am here for advise so toss it at me on these.

Would I be better off strength>cost wise building this myself with the best parts from A, B, and C off road or simply mailing my 3rd to Diamond, or just giving diamond a call and saying "this is what I want"?

I have hydraulics on top of ride-tech air ride on top of long arms for the suspension. So there would not be any need for a ARB compressor that would add to the axle cost.

I don't want to just waist money but do realize good stuff is not cheap. If I could get away building the rear for under $2500(with the selectable locker) and the front under $2000 I would be really pleased.

Just looking for the best way (and best parts for the money) to go about building these axles. Thanks for any advise In advance.
 
Been down that road. I ended up with a Chevy 14-bolt semi-floater from a late 80s 3/4 ton two-wheel drive. You get an axle that's about 64" WMS to WMS, six lug so you can keep your wheels, 33 spline shafts and a wide range of locker availability. I use an E-locker and I love it. It is a nice alternative to the full-floater (a.k.a. plow share) it's lots lighter, and is somewhat beefier than the stock axle. Disk brakes are easy too, also Chevy hardware. Other than that, you could cut and weld a mini truck/Cruiser afair with Cruiser centers and minitruck outers, the splines are the same, so it would just be a matter of getting the length right. There are other 8" Toyota variants with which I am not familiar, the first generation Tundra's rear axle might be a good candidate.
 
Woody, the CEO of ih8mud did exactly what you're looking at doing, as leighguy eluded to in the post above.
As I recall, the mini outers slip fit inside the cruiser housing and you weld it up. He wheels the piss out of his rig and I think he's running 38 or 40 in tires.

He might post up if ya hang tight.

Lots of folks here are building the 14 bolts.
 
you have a couple of options with Taco V6 rears or FJC rears .. but lot's less options in R&P and lockers down that road ..
 
Ive built a centered rear cruiser/mini hybrid. Uses a pre 85 mini truck housing for outers and depending on width either pre 85 or post 86 shafts. The mini tubes slide right into the cruiser tubes, couple plug welds and seam welds and you're done. If needed, send me a PM and Ill give a more in depth explanation.
 
I Built a Minitruck / Cruiser Hybrid Shown by the Great woody.. Works GREAT.. 5 years of hard wheeling, and ive never broken anything in it!

But im Switching to an 80 Rear soon.. 80's are close enough to Center.. already have Rear Disks, and Full Float.. pluss they are Wide!, and i can ditch my :flamingo: Wheel Spacers
 
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Been down that road. I ended up with a Chevy 14-bolt semi-floater from a late 80s 3/4 ton two-wheel drive. You get an axle that's about 64" WMS to WMS, six lug so you can keep your wheels, 33 spline shafts and a wide range of locker availability. I use an E-locker and I love it. It is a nice alternative to the full-floater (a.k.a. plow share) it's lots lighter, and is somewhat beefier than the stock axle. Disk brakes are easy too, also Chevy hardware. Other than that, you could cut and weld a mini truck/Cruiser afair with Cruiser centers and minitruck outers, the splines are the same, so it would just be a matter of getting the length right. There are other 8" Toyota variants with which I am not familiar, the first generation Tundra's rear axle might be a good candidate.

if you go this route i have new in the box arb locker. gears, setup kit and 4 alloy axles shafts. pm me will give a mud discount.:beer:
 
64" is a bit wider then I want. I was looking for more something around 58.

The 8" seems like a good option with lots of support for now and later. But I loose the 9.5 r/p. Any one ever break a 9.5? What does it take over breaking a 8"? I just don't know If I am better off going with a housing from diamond or gusseting the heck out of a 8".
 
64" is a bit wider then I want. I was looking for more something around 58.

The 8" seems like a good option with lots of support for now and later. But I loose the 9.5 r/p. Any one ever break a 9.5? What does it take over breaking a 8"? I just don't know If I am better off going with a housing from diamond or gusseting the heck out of a 8".


No need to go with what I suggested, but here's a pic if is going to help you with the build of one.
PROFFIT'S FJ40 REAR AXLE 004.jpg
 
Just a thought...
It is a really nice feature to have matching f/r diffs.
Came in extremely handy when a friend busted his wrap bar (un knowingly) and the snapped his pinion shaft on the rubicon a few years ago.
Just swapped the front to rear and we got him out.
 
Since you are starting fresh and buying everything new and if you don't want to worry about it breaking while sticking with yota parts, call Brian at Diamond and tell him you want a Ben Swain rear axle but with a locker instead of the spool, he'll set you up. Cruiser diff, 35spline, centered.
 
Since you are starting fresh and buying everything new and if you don't want to worry about it breaking while sticking with yota parts, call Brian at Diamond and tell him you want a Ben Swain rear axle but with a locker instead of the spool, he'll set you up. Cruiser diff, 35spline, centered.

35 splines ? how . ?
 
I did the centered fj40LC/mini truck mod(pre 85 axles) because I found offset T/Cases suck. I wanted to stay w/stk FJ40 width. I talked to several mini truck folks,read what Woody did, searched alot on this website & others & felt comfortable w/the strength of the stk axles & alloys are available. Plus repalcement stk axles are a dime a dozen & each side is the same length. I don't want custom length axles. I will say, I've not really beat the crap out of them yet, but they have been used hard. I'm happy w/the mod, & never really had issues w/the 3rd. I know they can have issues when getting close to 38" tires. I already had a detriot locker & disc brakes so the mods were cheap. $100 for the rearend w/4.10 gears(pink paint of the pinion) & sold the 3rd for 50 bucks, found some spare axles for $40. All I added was my labor. This mod eliminates the C Clip. I keep 1 spare axle in my tow truck. I did break a L/C 3rd once, too much hard driving on pavement w/a BBC. I eventually broke the center pin in 3 places & locked the diff up, so I torked the BBC up, figuring I would make the rearend go, which sheard the pinion off. Nothing like Big Block Power & being young & dumb. Fine spline pinions are stronger. I've seen recent post that you can do the same mods to the FJ60/62 axles and the later model mini truck axles. Search is your friend. I run 35-36" tires, FYI. It's all in my sig. You'll have a hard time breaking a 14blt ff, but the pumpkin does sit awfully low.
 
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