What weight oil for 1978 FJ40 2F

[ace10]

Because, oil has changed. API-SP was new to 2020.

The forum is actually a forum. We are not creating entries in an encyclopedia, and questions get asked and answered different every time.

So... four years ago. Probably more than a couple of 40 oil threads have popped in the interim.
And how does the "asker" know that the answers they receive in their particular are better than the ones which came before?

BTW, I understand the concept of a forum. Thanks for the assist. But there are tons of encylopedic threads here, containing valuable references, procedures, historical and even philosophical discussions about every model Land Cruiser.

Search is everyone's friend. It keeps questions about tires, oil and other common stuff from pushing the builds, troubleshoots and other unique threads right off into obscurity. It also keeps arguments about oil additives and OCIs down to a minimum.

If we don't protect the culture, then this place has the potential to devolve into [insert name of s***ty social media site here]. Mud is special, let's keep it that way. Even if it means gently reminding new members about searching.

OP, Good luck with the oil change. Your truck is decades old and has likely been neglected or even abused for much of its life. It's very unlikely you're going to hurt it.

peace

 

[Grayscale]

Yikes, sorry.

 

[sogafarm]

You'll never get a definitive answer, just like that video. It's sort of like opinions. I don't do additives in my oil or gas. I no longer run the stk 40's 6 cylinders, but run 1st gen sbc's, both engines have flat tappet cams. I stay away from synthetic oils. When these engines were designed, synthetic's weren't around. I run the same brand and weight oil in my engines except for my 2014 camry, which gets its recommended synthetic oil and likes burning it. It's a high mileage vehicle. Evidently Toyota changed its definition of excessive oil consumption as a result, so they didn't have to address the issue.

I’ve got an early sbc also, what oil are you using for your sbc? I just changed the oil for the first time since I got it and used Mobile 1 10w30 and it’s a quart low already after a few hundred miles(maybe normal or maybe the synthetic is causing the usage IDK.

Btw I also use regular Rotella 15-40 in my 2F’s and it seems fine so far.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Old used engine with new synthetic oil is asking for issues IMHO. It cleans all the gunk out and now everything is loose.

 

[DeskJock]

Thicker the oil, the harder the engine has to work. I follow the FSM and add a little ZDDP.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

After doing my own research for my 79 FJ40 desmogged 2F that had been sitting for years, I opted for locally available, inexpensive, full synthetic Shell Rotella T6 15w40 for two main reasons:

Zinc - I replaced a couple solid lifters during my rocker refurb that took me down the flat tappet rabbit hole. T6 has a high zinc level required for those old school engines, especially during break-in.

Detergent- There was a lot of burned smoke/sludge in areas that I had access to, so I thought detergent qualities would help clean things a bit between oil/filter changes. Yes, I may find leaks using using synthetic with detergent qualities (I haven't yet), but I'll cross that bridge when I get a rebuild, if needed.

Plus, I use the same stuff in my Kubota diesel tractor. Jury's still out, but so far, so good.

 

[pb4ugo]

I’ve got an early sbc also, what oil are you using for your sbc? I just changed the oil for the first time since I got it and used Mobile 1 10w30 and it’s a quart low already after a few hundred miles(maybe normal or maybe the synthetic is causing the usage IDK.

Btw I also use regular Rotella 15-40 in my 2F’s and it seems fine so far.

I use Rotella 15-40 non synthetic all yr round.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

All Gasoline Land Cruiser Engines 1961-1997 have an Engine Oil Viscosity Chart …

20W-50 Has the highest possible protection levels from 40’F to 100’F +

If your driving climate dips into the Freezing range in winter , 10W40 is the next level thinner

If you add the whole Proven Rocket Science of Fully Synthetic Motor Oils as Todays Standards …?

Then once starting to use this approach your essentially applying a Freeze-Frame factor to the internal current wear and tear metal to metal machined clearances …

Only the below Valvoline 20w-50 is API Certified ( American Petroleum Institute )

My 3F-E still runs Catalytic Converters , so it’s particular ZINC-Recipe Level is Safe for them …

Remember 1 Solid Fact here :

All our Land Cruiser Engines were designed and engineered to use Conventional motor oils at the stated owners manual Viscosity Ranges …

Add the Modern Age Materials the world is no longer flat Fully Synthetic Motor Oils…



Keeping change intervals the same 3000k miles ..

Holy Hell …

I will not hesitate to use the term :
“ Time Capsule “

Fact …

 

[desmocruiser]

Personally my vintage stuff always gets non synthetic, I have been using Castrol Classic 20W50 in my 78’ FJ 40, it’s typically available at any local parts house. I used Valvoline VR1 with an additive on a later year 2F after rebuild in my 60, but have now switched it to Castrol Classic.

 

[pb4ugo]

[QUOTE="ToyotaMatt, post:

Keeping change intervals the same 3000k miles ..

[/QUOTE]

Holy crap. 3000k miles =3 million miles?

Any oil is always better than no oil.

 

[Grayscale]

No 50-grade is mentioned for the 2F, just 40. Is the 50-grade needed, or is it for the 'zinc?' I'm not as concerned with frictional losses, but, will it squeeze thru the oil filter media without running dirty oil thru the pressure by-pass / relief valve? Will the thicker oil work with the cylinder hone and rings installed on a 2F? Kinda strange running the thickest oil that you can buy with a truck that has no factory air conditioning? I'm still open to the idea, though.

1975 Land Cruiser Owner's Manual

 

[Skreddy]

I didn’t read most of the responses….

I won’t use any oil I need to add something to because how do I know I added it right? That the additive is compatible with the oil I picked? That I got the right quantities?

If I just add a bottle of ZDDP to the top after an oil change, how many miles until it’s fully mixed?



Anyhow. I use Valvoline VR1 and a Wix or Napa Gold filter in everything I have unless it specifically calls for something different. High zinc content, similar price if you get it on sale, adds 7.63 hp because the jug says racing and 9.86 torques because ‘merica.

Bobistheoilguy forum is a good one to go get lost in for days and still not have a definitive answer.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have used oil additives. I like Energy Release. I would take a clean sause pan and warm up a quart of oil, then slowly add the correct amount of ER to the warm oil while stirring with a cordless drill. Next I would slowly pour the still warm mixture into the warmed up and running engine - then go for a good drive.

 

[DesertFJ40]

X2 for valvoline 20w50 Vr1 @Skreddy . Like said earlier, it has the higher zinc compared to Most other brands. Also, they have a $5 rebate through PayPal for every jug of oil you buy. It's a double win and ends up being cheaper than the other brands. My 1f engine really loves it, i noticed a reduction in engine clatter, especially during the summer .....as for another popular oil, The rotella 15w40 has been lowering their zinc levels over the years, and it happens to be an oil often recommended here in mud. I don't think it's so good anymore. If people want high zinc, I think the highest you can get is Lucas hotrod brand. It's a bit pricey

 

[JRCAR]

My 2F has tested low for compression. That tells me that I have leaks at the valves or thru the rings, or that the valves are congested to the point that it compromises the intake-stroke. It also consumes oil, albeit much less that when I first got it.

The things that I feel are important about oil are viscosity, application (type of engine), and change-intervals. With just what is important, I can find an 5W-30 (cold driving), API SP-type non-synthetic oil. I can affordably change the oil every four months, or about 300 to 500-miles, and do a filter change once-a-year.

I just bought some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. My hope is that the new technology will clean ring landings. I'm hoping that the new synthetic oils do not have the same sealing issues that ester-based oils from long ago created, but, I've not totally sure about this one. I'm hoping that it will not clog an oil-filter, as it is kinda an oil-flush. I'm hoping that I'll get better compression and vacuum. I'm hoping that it removes varnish, but, not ZDDP-deposits. It is a new product, so who knows about it and this old engine? However, my motor is basically due for a rebuild when I installed it, or the rings were stuck to the pistons. I'm playing my cards like it is basically a varnish-related issue with the piston rings. My compression improved after a few months of clean oil and fresh gasoline. I use additives in the fuel (Techron, etc.), but, no additives in the oil. Oil already has additives, you can see it, as all base-oils are clear.

Glad to hear someone else is using Valvoline Restore and Protect. My rig is a 76 FJ40 with a 2F engine with maybe 90K miles BLACK in the places I can see. Plan to change the oil filter in 300 miles. Keep up so we know what happens.

 

[Malleus]

I follow the "don't fix the leaks and keep adding cheap oil, because it's going to leak out anyway" philosophy. Cheap undercarriage rust insurance, too.