Best lift set-up for my 80 (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Threads
31
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Location
Simi Valley, CA
Let me start by saying that I have ready numerous threads on different set-ups, but want to make sure I do this right the first time. I recently installed a Slee Shortbus front bumper, 4x4Labs rear bumper with dual swing-outs, and sliders. I carry @100-150lbs of gear/supplies in the trunk at all times, and will be adding a winch sometime in the future with synthetic line. Currently running 285/75/16, and the biggest tire I would put on there is a 35".

The picture is how the truck currently sits. I want to go with a 2.5-3” lift, as I use it quite a bit for family trips, and also want to minimize items (such as drive-shafts, drop brackets, brake lines, etc.) that need to be changed when you go over a 4” lift. I like running on technical trails and plan on running the Rubicon within the next year.


I was initially leaning towards a Dobinson suspension set-up (Austalian company that another member had posted), however, the main issue is that there is no distributor in the US, so looks like I am left with OME. Is the following the best set-up (posted by "Saddletramp" on a different post):

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In addition to this, will I need the 30mm front spacers as well? Currently, the back of the vehicle sits a little lower than the front. Also, what are the +/- of using castor correction bushings vs. plates?

Thanks in advance guys!

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If you stay on 285/75r16's then order the slee off-road ome 2.5" heavy kit and call it done. If you plan to go 315's you will need the 30mm spacers. Right now my rig sits with 285/75r16's the 2.5 inch ome heavys up front, mediums in the rear with ARB bumper+winch up front, white knuckle sliders, 4x4 labs dual swingouts, cruisin off-road skid plates and have done the rubicon in it. Before running any more serious trails like that I want to put heavies in the rear because the mediums can't take the load of having the whole back filled with gear but when there is nothing in the truck it drives great and for weekend trips it does fine.
 
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4x4Labs rear bumper with dual swing-outs, and sliders. I carry @100-150lbs of gear/supplies in the trunk at all times

With that much weight I'd go right to 864s in the back.
I ran 863s then 864s and have now settled on 868s...but I have a second spare and drawers that are always full (it tips the scale at 7500lbs).
 
"J" lift on the corners. MT caster plates, 2" mt coil spacer up front. Time of pic MT front bumper, warn 8000, MT sliders, creepers skid, rear labs bumper no swing out, 315/75/16 MTr. Almost level.

IMG_0016 by retrofive
 
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In regard to your caster question, I see mostly pros for plates and mostly cons for bushings (I currently have bushings).

If you end up going with 850J springs in front, you'll want the additional correction anyway.
Plates use stock toyota rubber bushings (good time to replace) which ride better than the yellow OME bushings and may allow better flex (conjecture)
I personally find the caster correction of the bushings inadequate with the 850 (non J) front end and no additional weight.

In regard to your general suspension question, I think you'd be fine with the setup you posted. However I fall into the "lift as little as required to fit your tire size of choice" camp. Which means the basic 2.5" heavy kit should do the trick--not J's. Then use spacers as necessary if it doesn't ride level (if that even bothers you). Since you've already got sliders, you should be able to get away with a little less lift without doing too much damage to the truck. I'd look into t-case/trans skidplates as well. Just my $.02 coming from a guy who has flopped his truck before. Don't go nuts on the lift :eek:
 
I recommend contacting Mark at Metal Tech 4x4, phone or email. They will ask a lot of good questions about your use, location, future plans, etc and then recommend a system. I ended up with Ironman foam filled 2.5 lift - progressive. Love it, has been great for exactly what I needed.

Metal Tech 4x4 Toyota Off Road Specialists
 
Well there you go. We just suggested 850, 850J, 860, 863, 864, & holly molly even 868s.
I hope this helps.

I wouldn't recommend 860s for the reason they don't hold up to a loaded rig. I have a set, don't like them.
 
Thanks for all the replies, pictures, and advice guys! I know this topic must have been discussed hundreds, if not thousands of times :)

Heckraiser, I completely agree with your thinking:

[QUOTE=" However I fall into the "lift as little as required to fit your tire size of choice" camp. Which means the basic 2.5" heavy kit should do the trick--not J's. I'd look into t-case/trans skidplates as well. Just my $.02 coming from a guy who has flopped his truck before. Don't go nuts on the lift :eek:[/QUOTE]

I already have a BIOR skid plate on order to complete my armor. I like to have a nice (not rigid) ride on the freeway on family trips. That being said I see these as my options:

Front Spring: OME 2850 or 2850J
Front Shock: Nitrocharger 60018 or 60070L
Rear Spring: OME 2863, 2863J, or 2864
Rear Shock: Nitrocharger 60020 or 60071L

For the front suspension set-ups, what does the "J" mean when added to the OME8250 spring, and what does the "L" mean for the shock?

For the rear, what does the "J" mean, and what is the difference between the 60020 & 60071L shock?

For fixing the castor, I prefer to stay with the factory bushings, so I will go with castor correction plates from MT4x4.
 
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They 850J is has one more turn & is one more inch taller than a 850.

The L shock is the longer version of the Nitro Charger OME shocks. Its for the J spring.
The 851 & 850 get the 60018.
For the rear people for years have been running the longer L shock on the 860 & 863 even though OME only recomends L for the 863J.
 
Just to throw in, the shorter shocks are meant to keep the coils captured, retained. Just check my build thread, I have it all documented what I'm trying to say.

Just keep reading here on mud you will get it figured out soon. Those links I gave you will explain a lot.
 
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I recommend contacting Mark at Metal Tech 4x4, phone or email. They will ask a lot of good questions about your use, location, future plans, etc and then recommend a system. I ended up with Ironman foam filled 2.5 lift - progressive. Love it, has been great for exactly what I needed.
Metal Tech 4x4 Toyota Off Road Specialists
ARE THEY REALLY PROGRESSIVE?
I looked at the sight & saw the word perfomance but did not read anything about word progessive.
I could be wrong, school me if I am.
I also have learnd there is a difference between a progressive (variable) & dual rate spring.
I just wanted to sare this to clarify the difference.
SPRING-TYPES-1.jpg
 
And I thought I had my mind made up on the OME 2850 & 2863 :) Has anyone ran this particular set-up and then switched to Ironman? I will give metal tech a call anyway. Deciding on the correct lift combination definitely has it's options!! Guess I should be patient and get it right the first time. Ironically, I have read about this topic for months, but still haven't made up my mind on the correct/adequate set-up for a 2.5-3" lift.

GW Nugget, the picture you posted with 850J/863 L shocks looks like it's sitting nice and level, but I've read that the 850J may produce driveshaft issues?
 
And dont correct your castor, might get angry and bite you!:p But the caster correction bushings did make a difference, and the steering stabilizer too. But again, that is based on where I live, my conditions and use. Mine is not a daily driver, more of a weekend adventure/offroad.
 
GW Nugget, the picture you posted with 850J/863 L shocks looks like it's sitting nice and level, but I've read that the 850J may produce driveshaft issues?
The whole theroy behind OME is 2.5" lift. The medium, heavy & J lifts are meant to be 2.5" of lift. The variable is weight. There is a lot of rigs running J/863 that are not heavy & it yields more than 3" of lift that starts causing the issues of vibration. I believe 3" is where problems start. I'm at 3" & don't have serious vibs, I do feel slight vibs, but nothing that requires change. If you plan a winch or dual batteries then get the J spring in front. An 850/863 is going to stinkbug. OME engineered it that way on purpose. To fix it then you need to spring up or space.


I know nothing of Ironman lifts. I'm curious of them & how they compair to OME. I welcome any quality products that are on the market for the 80 series.
 
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The whole theroy behind OME is 2.5" lift. The medium, heavy & J lifts are meant to be 2.5" of lift. The variable is weight. There is a lot of rigs running J/863 that are not heavy & it yields more than 3" of lift that starts causing the issues of vibration. I believe 3" is where problems start. I'm at 3" & don't have serious vibs, I do feel slight vibs, but nothing that requires change. If you plan a winch or dual batteries then get the J spring in front. An 850/863 is going to stinkbug. OME engineered it that way on purpose to fix it then you need to spring up or space.

This makes sense about the three different springs yielding the same lift dependent on weight, but why would OME design the 850/863 to stinkbug? I will not be getting a winch anytime soon and will not go for the dual battery set-up either, so if I choose OME, maybe I should go for the 850/863, and add the 30mm spacer to the front if needed once I do get the winch??
 
Yeah, for whatever reason OME designed all their lift options with the assumption that you would have several hundred pounds of crap in the back (or maybe 7 adult passengers) at all times. IMO, it would be great if they had a lift option that was only 2.5" rear unloaded, as that is how I do the majority of my driving. Their 2.5" rear springs yield more like 4" with no extra weight in the back.
 

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