Best brake fluid (1 Viewer)

[Tools R Us]

In the trade it is common knowledge that the colour of the fluid changes in relation to water content, a quick glance tells you whether you should get out the moisture content tester, of course we don't know if customers have had the turkey baster out , any doubt and we get the tester out. ...

Kinda,,, very dark fluid is almost always bad, but relatively clear fluid can have high moisture content. A new bottle, left open to the air will absorb moisture, can look brand new and have high moisture content.

... Unfortunately brakes systems do not exchange fluid during operation except when putting in new brake pads, i.e. when fluid gets pushed back up the lines into the master. So changing the reservoir contents may well help visually/psychologically but is of limited use, water being heavier than brake fluid it falls to the lowest point in the system..........i.e. the brake callipers, just where you don't need it.
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But the fluid does circulate, not like a cooling system, but it does. When the pedal is pushed, the pistons drive fluid, when released it returns to the reservoir. Take a dirty system and change only the reservoir, with a short amount of driving it will be dirty again, do this several times and the whole system will be much cleaner.

One of the advantages of brake fluid is the moisture stays in suspension, evenly mixed with the fluid, doesn't separate. The reservoir is the only significant place where it's exposed to moisture, is where the moisture enters the system.

Changing the reservoir does have benefit, will reduce the moisture percentage. Don't count on it to replace the occasional full flush, but will help between flushes.

 

[Dave 2000]

But the fluid does circulate, not like a cooling system, but it does. When the pedal is pushed, the pistons drive fluid, when released it returns to the reservoir. Take a dirty system and change only the reservoir, with a short amount of driving it will be dirty again, do this several times and the whole system will be much cleaner.

The fluid in the calliper is not going to make it back to the calliper, it may move back and forth half an inch but not all the way back to the reservoir. If you have cleaned a reservoir and it is dirty in a short time then the entire fluid lines are filthy.

The calliper is where the moisture eventually falls and collects, this is where the water boils, this is what causes the brakes to fade/fail. I agree that moisture gets into the reservoir through the cap vent, and it does not mix with the fluid but, eventually does fall through the fluid to the lowest point.

Regards

Dave

 

[Rifleman]

In the trade it is common knowledge that the colour of the fluid changes in relation to water content

I've had more then one customer who knew nothing at all about brake fluid, tell me they though that their brake fluid was supposed to be that muddy color. They though that manufacturers made their fluid that color on purpose, to make it easier for them to tell how much fluid was in their clear master cylinder reservoir.

The look on their face was priceless, when i told them that that muddy color came from water in their brake fluid, causing their brake system to rust from the inside out. I also pointed out that they actuality needed to change their fluid with fresh, "clear" fluid ever 2 years or less, if they wanted to keep their brakes working properly, and in good shape.

 

[ravenplague]

After reading all the posts, looks like I need to change out my brake fluid!

I was driving the other day and it seems like when my drive train heats up, my pedal goes soft. Could be because Its hot outside and doing freeway driving or steep down hills, not sure. But i have bled the hell out of them and put in new brakes pads. I was thinking of new brake lines..but ill try new fluid.

Anyways, I am going to change it. What is the best way to flush the system completely? I ll use a syringe for the master cylinder , but then pump and release at each corner starting at the car's rear brake, right?
Suggestions?

 

[SmokingRocks]

I wish the government hadn't gone and made blue brake fluid illegal... It was such a nice visual indicator when flushing the system, the color shift from yellow to blue was a simple and effective way of showing that all the old fluid had been evacuated.

Freakin government, between this and how much they fooked up gas cans I can't imagine why anyone votes to increase their power.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Anyways, I am going to change it. What is the best way to flush the system completely? I ll use a syringe for the master cylinder , but then pump and release at each corner starting at the car's rear brake, right?
Suggestions?

Drain as much as you can from the reservoir then fill with fresh fluid and start to bleed the brakes with a buddy. Start at the back left, then back right, then LSPV, then front right and finally front left. Then drive it on a dirt road and get ABS to activate several times, go back into the garage and repeat the bleed. Get several jugs of fluid.

 

[ravenplague]

@SmokingRocks Thanks for the quick reply! I love this community

 

[Rifleman]

Start at the back left, then back right, then LSPV, then front right and finally front left.

Actuality you should always start off with the furthest away caliper, or wheel cylinder from your master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is on the left hand side on Land Cruisers delivered in the US market, you'll want to start at the right rear bleed screw, then move to the left rear bleed screw, then the LSPV. Next you'll move to the front right caliper bleed screw and finish off at the front left caliper bleed screw.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Actuality you should always start off with the futherest away caliper, or wheel cylinder from your master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is on the left hand side on Land Cruisers delivered in the US mrket, you'll want to start at the right rear bleed screw, then move to the left rear bleed screw, then the LSPV. Next you'll move to the front right caliper bleed screw and finish off at the front left caliper bleed screw.

You are correct, not sure why I said DS rear first...