"best" 2F

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Mace said:
So you could do a "stroker" 2F is youi wanted to with an offset ground crank :D

Here you go putting a racing saddle on a jackass again.......:doh: :doh:
 
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I thought you weren't comin out to Moab???

:flipoff2:
 
Mace said:
I thought you weren't comin out to Moab???

:flipoff2:


I'm not.....got to be Josh's best man ........:D :D :D

I guess I been a decent Dad if he wants to be his Best Man...:cheers:
Butch
 
3FE vs 2FE? Can get a 2F from a wrecked 87 FJ60 for a song and a smile, would it be worth it to put the 3FE head on a 2F block? I would also be adding an RV cam or a cam from Mark W if I ever remember to contact him about it.
 
Gapless rings do retain heat in the combustion chamber more so than regular rings since less blowby releases less heat past the pistons down the cylinder walls, so cooling capabilities must be a little better than when running regular rings. Higher compression exacerbates this, of course.

OTOH, I'm speaking from SBC experience. A 2F doesn't run as hot to begin with, so maybe even a built, gapless ringed 2F with, say, 9:1 compression would not add enough stress to the cooling system to have overall cooling issues.

I'm pretty sure that cylinder walls run cooler with gapless rings since there's less blowby. Less blowby burns and contaminates oil ring oil less which leaves cleaner, less burnt oil to better coat the cooler cylinder walls. There's some conjecture here. I also theorize that cleaner cylinder wall oil, so to speak, increases cylinder bore and ring longevity. That's a guess, really.

On the piston ring land sizes, maybe a piston maker can provide the info.
 
ok. i've read the thread, i want to rebuild my 1976 2f. i want it to be relatively gutsy, so what bits should i incorporate in a budget rebuild. i have access to a 1974 F head...
 
4x4Poet said:
Gapless rings do retain heat in the combustion chamber more so than regular rings since less blowby releases less heat past the pistons down the cylinder walls, so cooling capabilities must be a little better than when running regular rings. Higher compression exacerbates this, of course.


this is why i am still not sure if a no-gap ring is a good idea or not. i do run a 4 row radiator and a 190 thermostat on my current 2F that was rebuilt 30K ago. it tends to 'overcool' the motor as i can see a +/-20 degree temp fluctuation as the thermostat opens and closes. (mechanical gauges... get one!) it used to remain pegged at 190 with a 3 row rad. maybe the new setup will be just fine.

i am thinking that with the 4 row radiator, i should be ok. i am also doing the hallowed 'oiling mods' as we speak, so i am going to have more oil, two oil coolers, and more coolant to boot. higher heat capacity on the motor makes me feel better, but i wish i had numbers to compare facts rather than just speculation. also going to do coatings on the chamber, pistons, and valves, so....

HOPEFULLY i am still ok, and should just step up to the plate... :cool:
 
You will be fine. I am going to run a stock radiator with a "performance" built turbocharged 2F. And I have no concerns about overheating.
 
turbo... yeah, i guess i will probably be fine. although i would feel better if you had said "i am running a stock radiator (blah blah blah)" rather than " i am GOING to..."

hahha....;)
 
Okay, I have a turbocharged 2F running propane that I use a stock radiator with. I did see some overheating issues but that was cause woody killed my dist and the timing was WAY out of wack....

I typically run 180* when it is 110* outside...

Does that make you feel better???
 
I've seen no heat issues with tweaked 2Fs. Plenty of excess cooling capacity there.

Mark...
 
The ability to run the 3FE EFI.


Mark...
 
Well, I'm used to the 3FE's FI, but I want more due to the fat ass of the 80 and all the other do-dads that it has to spin with it.

Nobody seems to have any comments on the FE head on a 2F, does that mean it is a stupid idea or does it mean nobody has tried it yet?
 
I did comment. ;) You gain the ability to use the 3FE EFI. That's about it. Maybe a tiny bit of compression.

Not worth bothering if you aren't going to use the EFI system.

Mark...
 
I do plan to use the EFI, I plan to use the 3FE's head and intake and everything else, just use the 2F long block to hopefully gain more low end and compression.

Remember, compare all this to a 3FE...I want more low end than the 3FE, and more compression than a 3FE, and with your's or a Man-A-Fre cam more all over the board.
 
It's been done before. A 2F shortblock under a 3FE head will make more power at lower speeds. It'll make more torque at all speeds (that you will see with this engine at least). It will boost compression a little, but not a lot without other mods. It will have a lower redline and turn up marginally slower (probably not detectable in the real world).

Mark...
 
Lets say this will cost me $300 to do, would it be worth the effort to do this?

Also, what other mods can be done for more power out of this 2.5FE creation while remaining naturally aspirated?
 
Mace said:
I typically run 180* when it is 110* outside...

Does that make you feel better???


aaahhhh.... much better.... ;p interesting to hear. i would guess a turbo woulda chewed up all that cooling capacity real quick! maybe i should sell off my 4 core to a chebby guy!


alkaline747trio said:
Lets say this will cost me $300 to do, would it be worth the effort to do this?


that depends. it is a LOT of work. i posted up another response, but re-read the thread and see you probably want to put this in a 3FE engine. read through http://www.steelnthings.com/TLCA/2Fswap/ to get an idea what is involved. not just a drop in, for sure. if you can do fab work, might be a good week project.


alkaline747trio said:
Also, what other mods can be done for more power out of this 2.5FE creation while remaining naturally aspirated?

i am NO expert, but there are all kinds of mods you can do to just about any engine to make it run better. rather than asking here and waiting for someone to answer (you will get a lot of 'use the search tool'), go buy a performance engine building book at a local book store and read it. you can get one for just about any engine and nearly all the tricks will apply across the board. you will get a thorough explaination of what mods are good to do and what mods may be beyond useful for F series engines. go to your local toyota dealer, ask them who does their warranty machine/engine work, and then go talk to that person. machine shops, good ones anyway, know ALL the tricks, know what they cost, and, for the cost of a few beers after work, would probably be willing to help you figure out where your money is best spent.

this thread has already described some good mods and good places to start. otherwise, the search tool should provide some other good suggestions. i would tell you to start with a port and polish on the head, match the gaskets, get the motor balanced, and bump up the compression. probably the biggest improvements there to start.


HTH :beer:
 
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