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Wish there was a way to relocate the CDL and Hazard switches separately. The CDL could go in that blank space between the rear blower and window defrost it seems, not sure where the hazard could go though. But if they could be moved then a M2V2 could be mounted on both sides.

Just got my M2V2 delivered and installed today for passenger phone or a tablet running Torque/GAIAGPS/whatever apps on it.

View attachment 2686505
stay tuned. I am trying to relocate the CDL and Hazard to the ashtray assembly.
 
I agree that would be cool, but I think it would be tough since they are a single board. The only option then would be to have a wired switch from the board to somewhere else but that would be very DIY.
The Hazard switch can be easily relocated. Grounding one wire (connector C9 pin 3) turns the Hazard flashers on.

The CDL is a different beast, it requires a double-pole switching action that the PCB takes care of. I’ve relocated mine but it required the addition of a relay module: CDL Switch moved to panel left of steering wheel - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cdl-switch-moved-to-panel-left-of-steering-wheel.1238226/#post-13592935

The blank switch between the defogger/mirror heater buttons could also be used... on my truck there’s a push-on-push-off LED that’s activated but I’m not sure where switched power ends up, if anywhere. You could use that switched power to drive the relay module but you’d still have to find a good looking switch cap for the blank spot.
 
Little 3D printer porn teaser for y'all on that relocation panel.

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I agree that would be cool, but I think it would be tough since they are a single board. The only option then would be to have a wired switch from the board to somewhere else but that would be very DIY.
Aren't both of these just a push on/off switches? Is there some weird logic built into the boards behind them?

Being just push switches, I am thinking of (a) move the CDL switch to the center dash area in the blank next to the defrost, and (b) move the hazard switch to a blank near the mirror adjusters to the left of the steering wheel. This would give me 2 blank areas on the dash for other mounting options. Any thoughts?
 
Aren't both of these just a push on/off switches? Is there some weird logic built into the boards behind them?

Being just push switches, I am thinking of (a) move the CDL switch to the center dash area in the blank next to the defrost, and (b) move the hazard switch to a blank near the mirror adjusters to the left of the steering wheel. This would give me 2 blank areas on the dash for other mounting options. Any thoughts?
5CF236A8-E1C9-46DF-9005-F722A69E4C20.jpeg

This is the back of the CDL and Hazard switches. They share a circuit board. Two micro switches are soldered in the board.
 
Aren't both of these just a push on/off switches? Is there some weird logic built into the boards behind them?
Yes and yes. However the buttons are mechanically push-on/push-off, not electrically. Both buttons click in and out but only move single-pole switches.

That’s fine for the Hazard switch, but the CDL relay requires double-pole switching. The circuit board has electrical logic on it to convert the single-pole to double-pole switching.
 
Yes and yes. However the buttons are mechanically push-on/push-off, not electrically. Both buttons click in and out but only move single-pole switches.

That’s fine for the Hazard switch, but the CDL relay requires double-pole switching. The circuit board has electrical logic on it to convert the single-pole to double-pole switching.

I've tinkered some with electronics projects for years. mostly guitar effects pedals. So my understanding is minimal I admit.

Could you possibly desolder the mechanical switches from the board, then solder on wire leads to whatever new location you want the new switch to be in and connect a new, or old, mechanical switch to the leads? Then it would just be tucking the logic board in somewhere behind the console faceplate? Maybe a little easier/cleaner than having to mod the switch and add the relay?

Not knocking your method. Just throwing out ideas. But I could be not fully understanding as I said.
 
I've tinkered some with electronics projects for years. mostly guitar effects pedals. So my understanding is minimal I admit.

Could you possibly desolder the mechanical switches from the board, then solder on wire leads to whatever new location you want the new switch to be in and connect a new, or old, mechanical switch to the leads? Then it would just be tucking the logic board in somewhere behind the console faceplate? Maybe a little easier/cleaner than having to mod the switch and add the relay?

Not knocking your method. Just throwing out ideas. But I could be not fully understanding as I said.
I like this idea and its kinda what I was thinking with my original reply about it being a very DIY approach since its not really something that is just plug and play. Regardless, I am excited to see what Ben came up with for relocating it all into the ash tray replacement since that would function the same.
 
I like this idea and its kinda what I was thinking with my original reply about it being a very DIY approach since its not really something that is just plug and play. Regardless, I am excited to see what Ben came up with for relocating it all into the ash tray replacement since that would function the same.
I would relocate the whole assembly including the button and the circuit board. Most of us can use fasteners. Requiring desoldering and soldering may not apply to everyone.
 
I've tinkered some with electronics projects for years. mostly guitar effects pedals. So my understanding is minimal I admit.

Could you possibly desolder the mechanical switches from the board, then solder on wire leads to whatever new location you want the new switch to be in and connect a new, or old, mechanical switch to the leads? Then it would just be tucking the logic board in somewhere behind the console faceplate? Maybe a little easier/cleaner than having to mod the switch and add the relay?

Not knocking your method. Just throwing out ideas. But I could be not fully understanding as I said.
You could certainly extend just the switches to whatever and wherever you want.

55E448C3-3460-4034-A06B-94F64AE3B31D.jpeg
 
Little 3D printer porn teaser for y'all on that relocation panel.

View attachment 2686737
If you’re making a whole replacement panel for the ashtray/outlets section, then you can have my money.
Moving the hazard/CDL as well as using the space for switches and power outlets would be awesome. Then each side of the console can take a ball mount or blank.
 
Make 50: Hood Struts Safety Clip

This is to add a safeguard against the accidental hood drop.

An excellent demo video made by patch_lx470 on Instagram:


Thanks to @changingground for the storage idea.

Thanks to @medtro @Otter @Zagalona @AustinJoe for testing the prototypes.

It seems that we have two different versions of struts mixed on LC100 and LX470.

1622363314991.png




1615701734283.png



1615788538915.png


Purchase:

I want to make this product FREE for our Hundy owners. You only need to pay for the shipping.
Measure the rod diameter to the best of your ability to determine the version you need. (10 mm = 0.39 inch, close to 3/8 inch; 12.5 mm = 0.49 inch, close to 1/2 inch.)
Ask me and I will send one.

If you have your own 3d printer, you can download the files from here:
 
Last edited:
Make 50: Hood Struts Safety Clip

This is to add a safeguard against the accidental hood drop.

An excellent demo video made by patch_lx470 on Instagram:


Thanks to @changingground for the storage idea.

Thanks to @medtro @Otter @Zagalona @AustinJoe for testing the prototypes.

It seems that we have two different versions of struts mixed on LC100 and LX470.

View attachment 2688668



1615701734283.png



1615788538915.png


Purchase:

I want to make this product FREE for our Hundy owners. You only need to pay for the shipping.
Measure the rod diameter to the best of your ability to determine the version you need. (10 mm = 0.39 inch, close to 3/8 inch; 12.5 mm = 0.49 inch, close to 1/2 inch.)
Ask me and I will send one.

Hey mate, do you ship to Australia? How do I buy some of your gear?
 
Make 50: Hood Struts Safety Clip

This is to add a safeguard against the accidental hood drop.

An excellent demo video made by patch_lx470 on Instagram:


Thanks to @changingground for the storage idea.

Thanks to @medtro @Otter @Zagalona @AustinJoe for testing the prototypes.

It seems that we have two different versions of struts mixed on LC100 and LX470.

View attachment 2688668



1615701734283.png



1615788538915.png


Purchase:

I want to make this product FREE for our Hundy owners. You only need to pay for the shipping.
Measure the rod diameter to the best of your ability to determine the version you need. (10 mm = 0.39 inch, close to 3/8 inch; 12.5 mm = 0.49 inch, close to 1/2 inch.)
Ask me and I will send one.

That’s an amazing offer. I am out of town at the moment' and cannot access my vehicle, but when I’m back to it will combine my hood strut braces with a paying item from your selection. Thanks for the kind offer,
 

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