CDL Switch moved to panel left of steering wheel (1 Viewer)

[Red Beard]

After hitting my CDL switch with my knee a couple times already (once on the highway), I'm wondering if anyone has moved their CDL switch to the panel left of the steering wheel below.

(Photo is from here: Factory Switch to Control Air Lockers – Part 1 - https://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/04/factory-toyota-locker-switch-to-control-air-lockers-and-compressor-part-1/)

It seems there was one post I found and @94landcruiser said they moved the switch to this location but I haven't found any photos. (CDL Engaged Inadvertently - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cdl-engaged-inadvertently.116045/#post-1487928)

Anyone else do this?
Anyone know if there is a switch out there that would fit in there and have the CDL logo on it? It's too cool not to have on there. The 80 switch looks like it would be close but I don't think it would fit:

(from Cruiser Outfitters: Cruiser Outfitters - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/electrical.html)

 

[Red Beard]

It looks like the Lexus GX470 has this switch already?

Lexus GX470 Center Differential Lock Switch 84725-60080 2003-2007 OEM | eBay

For: 2003-2007 Lexus GX470. Center Differential Lock Switch.

www.ebay.com

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The GX/4Runner CDL switches should fit the vertical blank slot.

 

[Red Beard]

The GX/4Runner CDL switches should fit the vertical blank slot.

Perfect. I have one ordered, I'll report back in a few weeks. Thanks

 

[WreckDiver1321]

Fun question: Does anyone know of a switch that fits the OE CDL switch location? I'm removing my power antenna and thus do not need the switch, so I'm trying to work out if something will work there.

 

[Ayune]

I did it. More info a couple posts down, and here: Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/benjamins-3d-prints-build.1171700/page-70#post-13213255

 

[Red Beard]

I did it, more info here: Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/benjamins-3d-prints-build.1171700/page-70#post-13213255
View attachment 2548089

That looks awesome.

In your post you mention you had to do some stuff with a relay to get that switch to work. Can you provide anymore info on that?

After the switch is moved, I’m wondering if is there a blank switch or switch cover I can put there instead?

 

[Ayune]

That looks awesome.

In your post you mention you had to do some stuff with a relay to get that switch to work. Can you provide anymore info on that?

After the switch is moved, I’m wondering if is there a blank switch or switch cover I can put there instead?

I moved the hazard & CDL switches so I could mount my phone there. To make it work electrically you need to:

1. Extend the four hazard & CDL wires from the center console to the other panel. You need to extend pins 3, 4, 5, and 19 on the 22-pin connector (“C9”). Disconnect the battery while doing this since pin 5 is +12v from the battery.

2. Modify the new CDL switch so it’s push-on/push-off, not momentary. This can be done by adding a bent metal wire and thin spring to the inside of the switch. The Hazard switch has similar parts inside of it so you can use them as templates. I used a straight pin from a sewing kit. Omigod wear safety glasses when bending the metal bits...

3. Since the new CDL switch has only two contacts you need to add a relay between the switch and the existing CDL wires. Wiring diagram is below. I bought the relay on Amazon: HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module.

4. The hazard wire simply needs to be grounded through the new switch to activate the flashers, so that’s simple.

Hazard switch P/N is 84332-26120, CDL switch P/N is 84725-35050.

 

[Red Beard]

I moved the hazard & CDL switches so I could mount my phone there. To make it work electrically you need to:

1. Extend the four hazard & CDL wires from the center console to the other panel. You need to extend pins 3, 4, 5, and 19 on the 22-pin connector (“C9”). Disconnect the battery while doing this since pin 5 is +12v from the battery.

2. Modify the new CDL switch so it’s push-on/push-off, not momentary. This can be done by adding a bent metal wire and thin spring to the inside of the switch. The Hazard switch has similar parts inside of it so you can use them as templates. I used a straight pin from a sewing kit.

3. Since the new CDL switch has only two contacts you need to add a relay between the switch and the existing CDL wires. Wiring diagram is below. I bought the relay on Amazon: HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module. I removed all of the PCB’s small optocoupling parts and just activated the relay coil straight from the CDL COM (+12V) wire.

4. The hazard wire simply needs to be grounded through the new switch to activate the flashers, so that’s simple.
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Oh wow, that's more involved than I thought. I'll try to wrap my head around here soon and get this wired up.

I also just realized on my model, I have two switches already in the spots that you used for your hazards and CDL. So I may have to get creative on how I fit another switch in that location.

 

[Red Beard]

I moved the hazard & CDL switches so I could mount my phone there. To make it work electrically you need to:

1. Extend the four hazard & CDL wires from the center console to the other panel. You need to extend pins 3, 4, 5, and 19 on the 22-pin connector (“C9”). Disconnect the battery while doing this since pin 5 is +12v from the battery.

2. Modify the new CDL switch so it’s push-on/push-off, not momentary. This can be done by adding a bent metal wire and thin spring to the inside of the switch. The Hazard switch has similar parts inside of it so you can use them as templates. I used a straight pin from a sewing kit.

3. Since the new CDL switch has only two contacts you need to add a relay between the switch and the existing CDL wires. Wiring diagram is below. I bought the relay on Amazon: HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module. I removed all of the PCB’s small optocoupling parts and just activated the relay coil straight from the CDL COM (+12V) wire.

4. The hazard wire simply needs to be grounded through the new switch to activate the flashers, so that’s simple.

Hazard switch P/N is 84332-26120, CDL switch P/N is 84725-35050.

View attachment 2548328View attachment 2548329
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So I think I have most of the wiring figured out based what you shared. What I'm most puzzled about is how to make it stay on. You said you added a sewing pin. Anymore photos you can share of that? Maybe a video on how that pin comes into play? I know that's asking a lot but would be really useful!

I haven't gotten my switch yet so I haven't dug into it but I'm excited to do this. My knee hasn't been able to rest while driving haha.

 

[JJ_SC]

I 3D printed a little cover for it and glued it on.

All those wires make me nervous. I think it will be pretty well protected this way and it’s hardly noticeable.

 

[Ayune]

So I think I have most of the wiring figured out based what you shared. What I'm most puzzled about is how to make it stay on. You said you added a sewing pin. Anymore photos you can share of that? Maybe a video on how that pin comes into play? I know that's asking a lot but would be really useful!

I haven't gotten my switch yet so I haven't dug into it but I'm excited to do this. My knee hasn't been able to rest while driving haha

See the video below to see roughly how the pins work.

The pics above pretty accurately show the two pins needed. I had the Hazard switch's internal pins to use as an example, that's really the best way to do it. I didn't take measurements or anything, I just duplicated the Hazard parts best I could and it still took some trial & error.

- The bent pin is rigid, and the upward-facing end sits in a diamond-shaped channel molded into the switch's cover (removed in the above pics). When the switch is pressed the pin travels through the channel and the pin swings left and right a little. I used a file to make sure the pin's end was smooth so it slid smoothly through the plastic channel. The channel has a stop in it to hold the switch in until you press it again.

- The straight pin is flexible, and acts as a spring pushing the bent pin upwards into the molded channel.

I just hunted around my house until I found the right size metal pieces. Wear safety goggles when cutting them.

 

[Red Beard]

I 3D printed a little cover for it and glued it on.

View attachment 2552443
All those wires make me nervous. I think it will be pretty well protected this way and it’s hardly noticeable.

I may go your route. I'm still waiting on my switch to get here. It was last seen in Oregon like a week ago.

What would one of those printed switch covers cost me?
Also, in case I do move the switch, would you be able to print a "blank" that will fit in that slot?

 

[JJ_SC]

I may go your route. I'm still waiting on my switch to get here. It was last seen in Oregon like a week ago.

What would one of those printed switch covers cost me?
Also, in case I do move the switch, would you be able to print a "blank" that will fit in that slot?

My buddy has the printer. I'm sure I can get him to print another and send it out to you.

For the blank, I'd hit up @BenCC. He probably already has a CAD file and if he doesn't, I'm sure he could bust it out quickly. He's the local 3d printer guru!

 

[Red Beard]

My buddy has the printer. I'm sure I can get him to print another and send it out to you.

For the blank, I'd hit up @BenCC. He probably already has a CAD file and if he doesn't, I'm sure he could bust it out quickly. He's the local 3d printer guru!

Awesome. I appreciate it.

I wanted to ask you first before asking Ben. I'll throw a post in that mega thread.

 

[BenCC]

Post in thread 'CDL Switch moved to panel left of steering wheel'
CDL Switch moved to panel left of steering wheel - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cdl-switch-moved-to-panel-left-of-steering-wheel.1238226/post-13592935

 

[BenCC]

Awesome. I appreciate it.

I wanted to ask you first before asking Ben. I'll throw a post in that mega thread.

mega thread haha

 

[Red Beard]

I moved the hazard & CDL switches so I could mount my phone there. To make it work electrically you need to:

1. Extend the four hazard & CDL wires from the center console to the other panel. You need to extend pins 3, 4, 5, and 19 on the 22-pin connector (“C9”). Disconnect the battery while doing this since pin 5 is +12v from the battery.

2. Modify the new CDL switch so it’s push-on/push-off, not momentary. This can be done by adding a bent metal wire and thin spring to the inside of the switch. The Hazard switch has similar parts inside of it so you can use them as templates. I used a straight pin from a sewing kit.

3. Since the new CDL switch has only two contacts you need to add a relay between the switch and the existing CDL wires. Wiring diagram is below. I bought the relay on Amazon: HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module. I removed all of the PCB’s small optocoupling parts and just activated the relay coil straight from the CDL COM (+12V) wire.

4. The hazard wire simply needs to be grounded through the new switch to activate the flashers, so that’s simple.

Hazard switch P/N is 84332-26120, CDL switch P/N is 84725-35050.

View attachment 2548328View attachment 2548329
View attachment 2548336
View attachment 2548353
View attachment 2550147

Thanks again for sharing all of this. I just received my GX470 CDL switch. I popped it open and I see now how this switch can turned into momentary. I'm currently looking around the house for some pins to see if I can get it to work.

For the wiring, my harness has 4 outputs from the switch. See photo below. Did yours have this?

And what did you mean by this:

3. Since the new CDL switch has only two contacts you need to add a relay between the switch and the existing CDL wires. Wiring diagram is below. I bought the relay on Amazon: HiLetgo 12V 1 Channel Relay Module. I removed all of the PCB’s small optocoupling parts and just activated the relay coil straight from the CDL COM (+12V) wire.

 

[Red Beard]

 

[Ayune]

Thanks again for sharing all of this. I just received my GX470 CDL switch. I popped it open and I see now how this switch can turned into momentary. I'm currently looking around the house for some pins to see if I can get it to work.

For the wiring, my harness has 4 outputs from the switch. See photo below. Did yours have this?

And what did you mean by this:

Oh yea, two of the wires are for the bulb, and two are for the switch contacts. In your picture it looks like the two contacts on the left are for the bulb and the two on the right are for the switch. You can visually double check.

On the relay board I removed all the small parts but I don't think that's necessary... Let me get back to you on a better wiring scheme that does not require any soldering to the relay board.