Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (38 Viewers)

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Make 28 Installation

Step 1 Remove the ashtray assembly.

Use a plastic pry tool to remove the ashtray assembly.

Step 2 Remove the center console panel.

Use the plastic pry tool to pry open the center console panel.

Step 3 Remove the factory cupholder.

Remove the three screws and detach the cupholder from the center console panel.

Step 4 Place M28 in place and push it down.

Pull the panel around the ebrake towards the driver seat so the cupholder can be inserted. Push the cupholder down.
Do not bolt M28 with the center console.

Step 5 Replace the center console panel and the ashtray assembly.

Push down around the panel to lock the clips.

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I’m already struggling with Step 1 removing the ashtray assembly. I’ve got the top half off but the bottom part won’t come out of the clips I guess. Any tips?
 
I’m already struggling with Step 1 removing the ashtray assembly. I’ve got the top half off but the bottom part won’t come out of the clips I guess. Any tips?
I found removing the shifter trim is necessary before the ashtray trim comes out. Unscrew the transfer case shifter knob, put the transmission shifter in N, pull up hard on the cup holders and it will pop up at the rear, then along the sides. Then unplug the seat heater & PWR/2ND switches and lift the trim off. The ashtray trim will pull off rearward at that time.
 
I found removing the shifter trim is necessary before the ashtray trim comes out. Unscrew the transfer case shifter knob, put the transmission shifter in N, pull up hard on the cup holders and it will pop up at the rear, then along the sides. Then unplug the seat heater & PWR/2ND switches and lift the trim off. The ashtray trim will pull off rearward at that time.
That’s definitely the order to go in. And then ash tray in first after putting it back together. I’m not sure there’s a good reason to take the ash tray assembly out at all.
I took seat heat and other switches out and cleaned out the 20 years of gunk while I had it all apart.
The cup holder is solid and fits in there tight with no room for wiggling

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That’s definitely the order to go in. And then ash tray in first after putting it back together. I’m not sure there’s a good reason to take the ash tray assembly out at all.
I took seat heat and other switches out and cleaned out the 20 years of gunk while I had it all apart.
The cup holder is solid and fits in there tight with no room for wiggling

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There is a good reason to take out the ashtray assembly....................and that will be to replace it with Ben's up coming replacement mount for everything.
 
I research and teach.

As a researcher, I work on variable stiffness robotic links and fingers. It has high load capability in high stiffness mode, has high dexterity in low stiff mode. It was all bio-inspired. It can also be co-robot which allows human operator in its workspace. The meat of the technology is in how you change the stiffness in a controlled timely manner.

As an educator, I teach a couple of engineering courses, like statics, dynamics, thermal dynamics, measurement, etc.

Just reread this post. :oops: Statics, Dynamic, Thermo oh man having some memories of college right there!

Keep up the great work!
 
Speaking of a mag rack... Do you have an ideas for a holster solution? Right now I just use a soft holster and shove it between the center console and the seat. I thought about doing some sort of magnet but haven't gotten very far.
I tried. That slot is too narrow. I could not have a good grip for Glock 19, 17 and 20 when they were holstered in the slot, i.e., the thickness of the pistol and the thickness of my palm combined is greater than the width of the slot.
 
Speaking of a mag rack... Do you have an ideas for a holster solution? Right now I just use a soft holster and shove it between the center console and the seat. I thought about doing some sort of magnet but haven't gotten very far.
@arkmm Just an idea: I did a magnet holster screwed into the back of the glove compartment. I removed the compartment, screwed holster style magnet (block would work too) into the thin plastic back and then coated back with JBweld to strengthen it). Downside it that it's a bit farther from reach, but the upside is the ability to lock the glove compartment.
 
Follow up on my previous post about sanding.

I wet sanded the cup holder to 1000 starting with 120. I could have spent a few more minutes at 120 as I didn’t completely remove all of the striations between layers but 99% is smooth as glass. Feels better to my hand now. Still has a funny coloration between print layers but I’m ok with it.

I used the time to clean up under the console, replace all the burnt out bulbs (basically all of them), and to remove the faux wood crap.

Also, don’t know if anyone else has this issue it my butterfly piece is very tight. I thought I was going to break it the first time.

A+ work @BenCC.
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Follow up on my previous post about sanding.

I wet sanded the cup holder to 1000 starting with 120. I could have spent a few more minutes at 120 as I didn’t completely remove all of the striations between layers but 99% is smooth as glass. Feels better to my hand now. Still has a funny coloration between print layers but I’m ok with it.

I used the time to clean up under the console, replace all the burnt out bulbs (basically all of them), and to remove the faux wood crap.

Also, don’t know if anyone else has this issue it my butterfly piece is very tight. I thought I was going to break it the first time.

A+ work @BenCC.
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Great. The butterfly should fit very tight by design. To completely remove the layer lines, you either need to sand with #100 or #120 a little harder, or apply filler like Bondo then sand and paint.
 
@Gesose I had very good luck using Bondo glazing putty on my ScanGauge mount. It's much thinner than Bondo body filler and does an excellent job getting in between all the miniscule print lines to make it one uniform surface after sanding. Just spread it quickly because it doesn't have a lot of working time.
 
LC100 cupholder.jpg


Thanks Ben for the cupholder! It looks and fits great. You can see in the picture how the cupholder print matches the shape of the tan center console cover just as good if not better than the toyota plastics.

The install was super quick and easy, but a few items to note if you haven't removed your center console before:

Start the car, put both gear shift and transfer case levers into Neutral. Lock the parking brake, then turn the car off. Twist the Transfer Case knob left to remove. Center console is much easier to remove with the levers in neutral.

Pull directly up on the factory cupholder sharply to pop off the first two clips. Then you should be able to tilt the cover forward and pull up to remove two more clips next to the gear shift and transfer levers. Unclip the wire harness from the seat heaters and Pwr/2nd switch. Tilt up from the cupholder and you can remove the center console cover with the cupholder without having to remove the ashtray cover.

Remove cupholder from center console cover by removed (3) screws on the underside. Do NOT reuse the screws. The new cupholder does not need to be attached to the center console cover.

Install ben's cupholder by pulling the factory plastic towards the parking brake a little to get more clearance. After the cupholder is seated, the center console cover can tilt down and snap right back into place.
 

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